How do I prime 5.4 triton remand?

[craig sargood]

hello all, I’ve recently purchased and installed a remand 5.4 triton. I do not want to damage this motor, so any info would be helpful and greatly appreciated.

 

[craig sargood]

This is my engine, almost done

 

[stamp11127]

To prime the engine disable the fuel pump by removing the fuse for the fuel pump. With a fully charged battery crank the engine no more than 30 seconds then let the starter cool for no less than 2 minutes. Repeat this two or three times and the lubrication system should be ready to go.
Reinstall the fuse for the fuel pump. If you have a fuel pressure gauge install it on the fuel rail. Cycle the ignition key from off to run to prime the fuel rail. This will take a few times since the pcm will only energize the fuel pump circuit for 2-3 seconds each time. Once you see pressure on the gauge start er' up.
If you have a removable fuel pump relay you can also jump 30 to 87 or 87a to power the fuel pump directly and avoid the ignition key method.

 

[craig sargood]

I’ve heard that this is a bad way to do this, I read that you could pump oil into engine through the oil pressure sensor hole also, no trying to not trust you, just want to make sure I’m doing it right.

 

[jeff kushner]

I will vouch for what Stamp is telling you....

You are fortunate that he responded....he's one of the 'aces" here.

jeff

 

[stamp11127]

A good engine builder will use assembly lube on the bearings & journals during assembly or at least coat them with oil. Spinning the engine to prime the oil passages isn't any different than spinning it during assembly - you're just using the starter.
If the spark plugs are out of the heads you can also shoot a little oil in the cylinders to lube the rings. The cylinders and pistons are normally coated with oil at time of insertion. It will smoke like a chimney when it first fires up though.
I prefer to let the engine idle and come up to temp when first started. This gives you time to check for any leaks or unwanted sounds before stabbing the throttle.

Think about this - you go on vacation for 2-4 weeks. The car at home isn't started for that time. All the oil has drained back into the pan. When the engine is cranked and first fires up, you have 0 oil pressure. It takes 1 - 2 seconds for the oil pressure to build. Are the engine internals damaged doing this?

AMG Engine assembly :

 

[stamp11127]

Also, if you want to pump oil in the port there is nothing wrong with that method. You would have to source a pump, lines and fittings. What would you do with it afterwards?

 

[craig sargood]

Fair enough, Thanh you very much for the advice.

 

[916hawk]

i used a chemical sprayer full of new oil and a barbed ntp air hose fitting through the oil pressure sensor hole. Spun it with a ratchet while the canister bled down. Did it until the dip stick registered topped up oil installed the plugs started right up. Way cheaper than Air compression tank and got in at least 50 revolutions with no "stress" on the system. I did coat everything with oil as I put it back together. My motor suffered a blown head gasket and bent rod from a cylinder full of coolant /water.


https://www.walmart.com/ip/Eliminat...hucq1dT9-t9dMQ0l2jekV0EBvthck5xIaAhEzEALw_wcB

 

[jeff kushner]

After re-reading this for fun, I see "it" very differently....You got this Craig, you just needed to be sure....but heck, you swapped an engine...something that 99% of the folks in this country couldn't do. I doubt that happened either by accident or without years of prior "mechanics" work....yeah, you got this.

jeff

 

[Flexpedition]

The engine rebuilder surely test ran the motor before shipping it, right?

You can pull the fuel pump fuse if desired, but holding the gas pedal to the floor will have the same end result. The engine will crank but never actually fire with WOT condition.

 

[craig sargood]

Yes, they test them

 

[Greg Coleman]

Some auto parts stores that rent tools are now carrying engine oil primers. This is basically a tank you fill with oil then pressurize with air. Screw the hose into the oil pressure switch and open the valve.

 

[craig sargood]

Hello all, need some more help, I’m at priming stage, and needed some questions answered, hopefully you all are at home doing nothing today. 1) when priming motor (I’m turning over with key, fuel dump harness disconnect at tank) will I see oil pressure on the dash gauges?? Also should I see oil inside the valve cover(looking through the oil fill hole)???

 

[stamp11127]

Usually no oil pressure on the gauge while cranking. I also doubt you will see any oil spraying on the valve train. Once the engine cranks up it will be a different story.

During the old days we would prime the oil galleys with the distributor out and a power drill with a home made attachment for driving the oil pump on small block Chevy's. Once we had oil coming up to the rockers we were good to reinstall the distributor, time the engine and fire it up. Of course this was with open headers & around midnight during the week. We had a good neighborhood back then, no one complained.

 

[craig sargood]

Lol, nice to have good neighbors. Thanks for responding stamp. I do think I may have a problem though, maybe you or anyone can help. So last weekend I tried the whole priming process, and I didn’t see pressure or see oil in valve cover, so I chickened out starting and decided to wait to try again this weekend. I tried earlier today for a good 20-30 minutes cranking with a full and charging battery. Cranking for 15-30 seconds then waiting for approximately 3-5 minutes for starter to cool. Didn’t see anything again. I then decided to check oil filter, completely empty/dry. So I went to local parts store and asked them for opinion. They recommend removing plugs and valve cover. I came back , pulled pugs and coil packs, put small amount of oil in each cylinder and tried again, still didn’t see any oil in filter or anywhere. From what I understand or think I do, the oil goes from pan to pickup to pump to filter to rest of engine?? So I tried cranking with filter off, nothing. I attached a short rubber hose to the center of filter adapter and filled hose with oil, tried cranking(thinking that maybe it had some type of air lock or that it should shoot out of rubber hose) still nothing. According to the manufacturer (powertrain products ) they sim test these engines for oil pressure and compression,I’m starting to poo in my pants a little. I’ve done a lot of work and tried to take every extra step to not have any issues, what does everyone think?????

 

[TobyU]

Fill the filter with oil first then crank it to see if oil light goes off in a few seconds.
Other than that, you can pull the sending unit out and screw in a fitting and pump oil into the system that way.

 

[stamp11127]

Not as an insult but make sure there is oil in the pan. Pretty sad if the "new way" of priming an engine is with an external pump. To me that would indicate a crappy pump design.

As stated fill the filter, prime with an external pump, install a mechanical gauge and fire it up. You should have oil pressure in less than 1-3 seconds.

We cranked over a 7.3 diesel with the turbo off the pedestal once which resulted in oil hitting the 16 ft shop ceiling. And this was just with the starter. All of us looked in amazement at what that pump was capable of doing.

 

[craig sargood]

Absolutely has oil, has 5.5 quarts. Called engine builder today, they said to pump oil through system. So I guess I’m pumping oil now, probably a dumb question, but Should i drain oil from pan and pump all 5.5 in through sensor port?? I really hope this works.

 

[max78]

I recently replaced the all the timing components and oil pump in my 5.4, I had to hold the key for a good 30 to 40 seconds to get it to prime. It will register at the gauge while cranking only.

I tried priming in 10 and 20 second intervals and it never worked.

I filled the pump with oil before install.

I held the pedal to the floor to keep the engine from firing, no need to disconnect anything.