I could use your help on this one guys

[Habbibie]

My sister in law just had some gremlins in her 02 trailblazer. Took it to an automotive electrician, turns out the ignition switch was causing a low voltage situation to everything downstream of it,everything. Definitely do the low tech diagnostics first and remember that an automotive electrici specializes in just that. So if after testing everything you can with the pump injectors etc. remember that its almost always cheaper in the long run to take it to a specialist to deal with electrical than to the dealer or a shop who probably don't mess with the electrical system often.

See the thing is I would do that too but I dont know where or who to take it to, I'm ok with DC voltage but 99.9% of my work is on 277/480 or 347/600V AC and 24-48VDC, until I can find a young or mid age gentleman who is a specialist on automotive electrical I'm on my own until then.... I'll do my best the principal's are the same it's when you get technical that's when I get confused

 

[Habbibie]

I had an old Accord that I got for free from a buddy to fix up for my son. It had a fuel pump relay module under drivers side console that would cause a problem when it got hot out. It didn't die when it was running, but if it was too hot in the car, it wouldn't start. Seemed that a solder joint or something had an issue. I'm in Texas and the car also didn't have AC. My son didn't drive yet, so I used it as an emergency beater... Started fine in the morning, but if I was at work, I would have to have the doors open for 10 - 15 minutes for it too cool down long enough to allow it to start. If it was really hot and you stopped somewhere, sometimes it wouldn't start for a while there. Lived with it for a month or so before I figured out what to replace and then it was fine. Well it started fine... Still had weird transmission, electrical, and other issues. Didn't fix it up for my son, got rid of it and was glad it was gone.

Damn it! its fall season here buddy I wish I can recreate your situation but its gonna be 70 highest all week and I kinda want to figure this out in less than a week, i think I'll take the main/fuel relay off of my wifes car and take it to my company's lab where they torture test relays to see when they actually do fail but that's a long shot and I gotta kinda kiss ass more than I'm used to to get that kind of treatment so.... yea dont bet on on it just yet but it is DOABLE!

 

[1955moose]

Habbibie, theirs a wiring harness under the floor that connects to the pump, according to some guy on one of the Honda sites. The plugs get wonky, and have to be cleaned and reconnected. Causes intermittent problems like your van is having. Worth a look.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

 

[Habbibie]

Habbibie, theirs a wiring harness under the floor that connects to the pump, according to some guy on one of the Honda sites. The plugs get wonky, and have to be cleaned and reconnected. Causes intermittent problems like your van is having. Worth a look.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk

LoL this is sad to say but I cant get the ******** plug apart, I pushed in all the release pins in and it still dosen't want to pull out of its connection, I really dont want to break it off but damn it is is it ******* glued in there or what!

 

[Habbibie]

this is the first time expedition forum blocks out expletive words on my system!

 

[stamp11127]

Keep it clean...

 

[Habbibie]

Keep it clean...

Nice of you to finally chime in

 

[stamp11127]

OK then, any no start condition with a gas motor is always diagnosed with the same procedure. Check: air, fuel & spark. Unless the air filter has never been changed you can usually skip a lack of air as being the problem. If there is a test port on the fuel rail, test for fuel bleeding down when off and running pressure. Ford likes 35-45 psi, so use that as a guide. If pressure is in the low 20's or lower it may not run. If fuel pressure is adequate then check signals from crank and cam sensors.

 

[Habbibie]

Ok I think I found the problem, I still have to fix it but seems to be the most promising cause at this point, still gonna take down the steering column and inspect the ignition wiring but this picture is of the main & fuel pump relay.

 

[Habbibie]

Here's my attempt at fixing it, now I gotta let the car idle for anywhere from 15-60 minutes to see if it stalls out again, if it does I have the fuel pump wiring exposed & I'll know by then if I'm getting power to my fuel pump or not