Munkie's Mods

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Munkiebunz3

Munkiebunz3

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@HawkX66 you have to glue the bracket to the bumper. Make sure you have a good way to clamp it on so that the sensors are centered and not recessed. Otherwise you might be getting false readings.
@AllBoostNoEco I did the standard diff ratio calculation taking into consideration the standard gear ratio of 3.31 (3.73 is optional for xlt, king ranch & platinum) and i got yhe 3.55 ratio recommendation. Hence, 3.73 is enough for 35s but I would like to make the 0-45 times a little more snappy for the urban battlefield. I'll make my final decision after I go off-roading. I'm apparently easier on the throttle than you despite having traded in a 99 corvette for this beast.
I'm considering diff locks because in 4A I'm getting a clunk upon street acceleration from the front and that probably doesn't bode well for future dirt stuff & I've read other members have had their diff clutches burn out just doing light duty stuff. Then again, I have 60k miles till that warranty dies. I'm going to get my $ worth.
 

bobmbx

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You got it. I don't do a lot of highway driving over 45mph (Thank you Los Angeles). I'm leaning more heavily to the 4.10 but only after I expire my 5yr/120k mile warranty. I'm also wondering if I can get a different grille now that the current bumper I have doesn't have spots for my grille to mount to. Well, It does but they don't match up. That's another thing I'll have to take a picture of.
Again, most of the time I plan on running the new stock 275/55r20 a/t tires so going 4.56 is way too much. I also only drive about 5k miles/yr so those original tires won't be running out on me anytime soon and I'm not too keen on spending more money just to get 275/60r20 tires when that $1k can go elsewhere like a new gun or solar equipment.

@AllBoostNoEco Thanks! I too am a fan of the tasteful mods you've done to yours. Which reminds me.

Wants:
Paint over all that interior chrome that puts the sun directly into my eyes.
This^
 

AllBoostNoEco

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@HawkX66 you have to glue the bracket to the bumper. Make sure you have a good way to clamp it on so that the sensors are centered and not recessed. Otherwise you might be getting false readings.
@AllBoostNoEco I did the standard diff ratio calculation taking into consideration the standard gear ratio of 3.31 (3.73 is optional for xlt, king ranch & platinum) and i got yhe 3.55 ratio recommendation. Hence, 3.73 is enough for 35s but I would like to make the 0-45 times a little more snappy for the urban battlefield. I'll make my final decision after I go off-roading. I'm apparently easier on the throttle than you despite having traded in a 99 corvette for this beast.
I'm considering diff locks because in 4A I'm getting a clunk upon street acceleration from the front and that probably doesn't bode well for future dirt stuff & I've read other members have had their diff clutches burn out just doing light duty stuff. Then again, I have 60k miles till that warranty dies. I'm going to get my $ worth.
Sometimes I forget my truck is also tuned with intake and modified exhaust, so it is quite a bit snappier than my wife's stock Platinum, even with the 35s on it. My pedal-to-TB ratio is considerably better than a stock one, which progress slowly and ramp up as you push further. A tune makes it much more fun. If I was stock, 4.10s would probably make more sense for my truck as well.
My truck also makes a clunk in 4A, along with a whirring sound at speed, but it’s been doing it for 35K and it’s still going strong. Even with a moderate amount of off-roading. I wouldn’t sweat it too much. I do lack the rear limited-slip (side effect of a 2015), but my experiences with those have also been rather lackluster so I’m not disappointed.
I am pretty sure the Raptor’s Torsen front differential fits our front diff, if you were looking for another option, as I believe there is a lack of support in locking diffs, even with as many F-150s came with the 8.8” 31-spline front.
 

JExpedition07

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Sometimes I forget my truck is also tuned with intake and modified exhaust, so it is quite a bit snappier than my wife's stock Platinum, even with the 35s on it. My pedal-to-TB ratio is considerably better than a stock one, which progress slowly and ramp up as you push further. A tune makes it much more fun. If I was stock, 4.10s would probably make more sense for my truck as well.
My truck also makes a clunk in 4A, along with a whirring sound at speed, but it’s been doing it for 35K and it’s still going strong. Even with a moderate amount of off-roading. I wouldn’t sweat it too much. I do lack the rear limited-slip (side effect of a 2015), but my experiences with those have also been rather lackluster so I’m not disappointed.
I am pretty sure the Raptor’s Torsen front differential fits our front diff, if you were looking for another option, as I believe there is a lack of support in locking diffs, even with as many F-150s came with the 8.8” 31-spline front.

I’m curious, could you supply more info on your 4A clunk? Does it clunk just running down the road? Acceleration? Just want to see if I can offer any info on what it may be related to...
 

shinysideup2

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Upgraded low beam projectors to the high output bulbs
What was your cheap high output solution? I bought cheap HIDs (Kensun 5000K). While they are whiter than regular bulbs, they are not brighter. I'd like a brighter solution, but am not yet ready to put down $150 for a premium HID kit.
 
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Munkiebunz3

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@JExpedition07 the clunk is on acceleration especially when making a right onto a hill. Otherwise it sounds like it's whirring/groaning once in a while during normal driving. This is after the dealer "replaced" the front diff due to vehicle shudder when accelerating during a turned wheel.


@shinysideup2 I got these. I am not endorsing them just yet. They seem about as bright as my halogen high beams now (at 25 feet) but I'm reserving judgment. It appears to me that there's a dead spot in the beam in each corner that I didn't notice with the original bulbs.
Xentec HID Kit 9005 6000K (expy projector compatible 100%)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTNY6B2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
 
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Munkiebunz3

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Btw, for anyone interested in replacing their bulbs I found the owner manual I have doesn't have the right designations for sone bulbs.
Projector headlights: 9005 low not h11
, h9 high not HB3. Wiring connection seems to be a h11?
Reverse lamps are 921 & not 3156.
 
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Munkiebunz3

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View media item 6656Also my tires:
35x12.5r18 on 0 offset wheels.
rears rubbed on the fender when I jumped off a 1ft curb
I circled in Red right where it hit.
I took a look inside the fender. I'm thinking I can likely cut a 1.5 inch wider opening or have it flared out.
 
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Munkiebunz3

Munkiebunz3

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Munkie's Kleinn HK8 Air horn Product review short version: Don't bother for airing tires.

So when I ordered the air system I made a phone call to the guys at Kleinn air horns saying that I would be using the system also to air up/down my tires when I go off road. They sent me their HK8 kit which has a tire inflation accessory pack. Now, this kit comes with the 6350RC 100% duty cycle air compressor.

I did some VERY easy & flat off roading where I wanted to drive with some speed. I aired down my tires from 40psi to 30psi. Yes I know it's not much but it was a test. Airing up? Well I managed one tire to 40, one to 37 and then it quit on me after what felt like way less than 10 minutes. I felt the compressor (not hot) so I pulled the fuse (good) and it started back up again. I filled the remaining two tires to 35 then decided to find a gas station and do the rest. Btw, no amount of time would get me to above 40psi.

When I get home I do some research. This 6350RC pump's manual says on page 3: "IMPORTANT: This compressor is designed for use with air horns (blah blah). It is not designed for continuous use applications such as tire inflation or air tools". Now WHY THE FRICK would they provide this pump with this HK8 tire inflation kit especially after I said what I would be using it for? Their 6450RC is just $52 more but is actually designed for this purpose. Why it wasn't sent with my order is beyond me.
 
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