My mechanic told me....

[Southbay]

that I should expect a major repair job to replace the spark plugs in my 2013 Ex. El limited because of the 5.4 3 valve..? He said last one he did he broke of 3 plugs which was over $1,000.00..He said I should expect the same...I've used this guy for almost 20 years..What do you guys think..Thanks.. Also I'm the third owner don't know if they are the original plugs.. Vehicle has 126,000 miles

 

[Trainmaster]

The problem "two piece" plugs in early 5.4 3 valves were redesigned during the 2008 model year and trucks after that have normal plugs. Replacing them in your 2013 will be no different than any other car, will incur no unusual risk and shouldn't cost any extra.

Isn't it nice to get good news sometimes?

 

[07navi]

What do I think? Get another mechanic, or better yet ,do it yourself..........not that hard.

 

[sjwelds]

My 2012 was no sweat. Your 2013 will be even less sweaty.

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

After 2008 or so, Ford did away with the two piece plugs, the ones that gave fits to everyone. You're good to go. Your mechanic needs to be made aware of this.
You can do it yourself, all you need is an air hose with a nozzle (to blow the holes out after you remove the coils, but before you remove the plugs) a rag or 3, some dieelctric grease, a 9/16" socket, some extensions, a wobble, ratchet, and of course the new plugs. I gave mine a shot a of PB blaster about 20 minutes before removing them (once coils were out of the way and I blew them out with air)...I replaced mine with the motorcraft SP509, it's what was in it, too. No worries.

Nothing to it. Plus, the wait time gave me time to go get another cup of coffee..

You got this.

 

[lbv150]

My 06 had a broken plug below the hex nothing to grab on with a socket....the extra cost was $200. My 04 puked a plug and the re-thread kit was $5

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Even a lot of mechanics that work on the 5.4s all the time don't know all of the nuances between model years, etc. As above, the troublesome plugs were no longer being used in 2013. Now, you can certainly break the 1-piece plugs and my mechanic told me he has done it, but I imagine it must take pretty considerable force. I had to use a 30" breaker bar to get #8 out on my mine and there were some moments where I was certain it was going to snap, but it eventually came out unscathed (it did require some rust pentrant and a steady supply of obscenities).

 

[07navi]

I never liked the idea of using anti-seize on plugs but I do now. Never any problems getting them out with it.

 

[JamaicaJoe]

Does penetrant such as Kroil, actually get past the gasket and into the threads before loosening the plugs?

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[07navi]

Does penetrant such as Kroil, actually get past the gasket and into the threads before loosening the plugs?

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No, that's why they recommend cracking them open about a quarter turn. Scary but you need to do it.

 

[Machete]

I think your mechanic is in need for a quick $1000.

 

[Trainmaster]

Does penetrant such as Kroil, actually get past the gasket and into the threads before loosening the plugs?

It probably sometimes doesn't, but given some time and several heat/cool cycles, it might. I certainly would give it a try. Definitely spray it once it starts to turn and work the plug in and out a bit. You know the drill.

I'd also consider adding some carbon-cutting stuff to the gas for awhile to possible attack the problem from that side. Always worth a try, as I see it.

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

Steel plug bodies, aluminum heads.

We all (should) know what those two metals do with one another when they're in direct contact for a length of time.

As even 07navi has discovered...anti-seize will be your new best friend. I use just a tad, don't want a lot, it's a lot like gun oil. There's a fine line between perfect and way too much.


I also smear it on the rotor hat, in between the lug studs. Keeps alloy wheels from sticking.

(when I did my front struts and lift spacers awhile back, had to take a 2x4 about a foot long, and a 12lb sledge to knock the wheels off...they were on there like stink on shit. one of em took about a dozen whacks before popping off)

 

[07navi]

When I changed the plugs on the new to me Navi I ran 2 cans of seafoam in 1/8 tank of gas for a week before and tacked it out on every freeway entrance, then I cracked them 1/4 turn and added PB Blaster overnight, and they all came out. I even decided against getting a broken plug remover in advance. I did have to use a breaker bar on a couple and wiggle them back and forth as they squeaked.

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

I honestly think that if one has to use a breaker bar to get a plug out, then whoever put it in there over tightened it. Especially in an aluminum head..

I think that the torque on the plugs is around 109 inch/pounds, which is nearly as I can guesstimate about 10 foot pounds, maybe a hair less. I set my little torque ratchet for 10 foot pounds and called it good. Sure as hell wasn't as tight as the ones that came out.

I've always been conservative with plugs in aluminum heads (any head, iron or aluminum, for that matter) never ever had one loosen up on me. I've probably ridden 100 different quads, dirt bikes, and similar off road stuff, nearly every one of them I've done some sort of work involving examining/replacing the plugs. Never an issue. Never stripped one out either.

Anti-seize and not being godzilla on the ratchet certainly helps in my opinion.

Just me, though..

 

[Machete]

When I changed the plugs on the new to me Navi I ran 2 cans of seafoam in 1/8 tank of gas for a week before and tacked it out on every freeway entrance, then I cracked them 1/4 turn and added PB Blaster overnight, and they all came out. I even decided against getting a broken plug remover in advance. I did have to use a breaker bar on a couple and wiggle them back and forth as they squeaked.

Seafoam does nothing to loosen spark plugs.

 

[07navi]

Seafoam does nothing to loosen spark plugs.

Maybe, the snouts looked pretty clean though.

 

[Thunderbirdsport]

Seafoam does nothing to loosen spark plugs.

I know....I laughed out loud awhile back when I read that he runs some through his engine prior to plugs. But hey, if it makes him sleep better at night..?

To me, having clean "snouts" on plugs that I'm about to replace is an important thing. Maybe he'll make a youtube video about that too, to go along with his oil gauge install...LMAO

Putting a drop of antiseize on the threads will actually have a benefit to future removal, or maybe it won't. But I wouldn't waste my money betting on (or buying) seafoam with the goal of easier plug removal...because it won't help with that at all.

The seafoam burns in the combustion chamber as the engine is running. It's not going to penetrate the threads and give you any kind of noticeable result.

PB Blaster will, if you remove the coil and spray it down in the hole and let it sit for a bit. I use it on every bolt, plug, or fastener that's not in the interior on everything I work on. The only bolts or nuts I've had that wouldn't come off since I can remember are the front upper ball joints, and seeing as how they were fairly loose, I just cut them and replaced with greasable UCAs.

Honestly, plugs are a straightforward job (if you're not messing with two piece units, that is)....take em out, clean the holes, and replace. I think you're making more of it than it really is.

How much is seafoam, anyway? I haven't bought any in something like 20 years. Don't need it...

 

[07navi]

foulmouth is back with more derogatory comments and bashing 40+ posts of it.

 

[JExpedition07]

I’ve owned two 2007’s and have not broken 1 of the 16 plugs. Just crack 1/4 turn and soak wells in carb cleaner. Let sit for 1 hour. NO PENETRANT!! NONE! Only carb cleaner breaks up the carbon that sticks the snouts in. Using kroil is a rookie move.

Your 2013 has none of these issues so you don’t even have to worry. You can wrench them out with no issue and no carb cleaner. You have 1 piece plugs.