New 2 me 1999 Ex 4x4

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SkyJumper

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Did you have any issues getting the old plugs out or the new ones in?

No, no issues other than a little patience and multiple length extensions to get the rear out. The hardest part of the exchange was getting the boots off the plugs. But after getting the 45 degree pliers out, that became a easier task too. Over all it took me about 25-30 minutes to change all 8 out.
 

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No, no issues other than a little patience and multiple length extensions to get the rear out. The hardest part of the exchange was getting the boots off the plugs. But after getting the 45 degree pliers out, that became a easier task too. Over all it took me about 25-30 minutes to change all 8 out.

I am on Youtube now watching the videos and all the horror stories of how the plugs break off in th heads- they seem to be in the 04-'05 ford 3V engines. There seems to be a very specific procedure. Cool engine, soak with carb cleaner, loosen 1/8-1/4 turn yada yada
 
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I am on Youtube now watching the videos and all the horror stories of how the plugs break off in th heads- they seem to be in the 04-'05 ford 3V engines. There seems to be a very specific procedure. Cool engine, soak with carb cleaner, loosen 1/8-1/4 turn yada yada

It has nothing to do with your year 4.6. The 3V ('04+) is the engine with the plugs getting stuck. Anything earlier had the blow-out issue. '04+ had to do with the plug design used that caused the break off into the head. Previous to '03 is with the plug blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. Which required a helicore insert repair to fix it.


Just let the engine cool off, if ran. Then go about it as any other plug change. The only thing with these trucks is the P/S has less room to get to the rear 2 plugs. Just lift up on the heater core hoses and sneak your hand under the hoses with your 4" ext/socket and then push your wrench on it and go at it.

Do not concern yourself with the plug tip seperation into cylinder.
 
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Jay87LX

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It has nothing to do with your year 4.6. The 3V ('04+) is the engine with the plugs getting stuck. Anything earlier had the blow-out issue. '04+ had to do with the plug design used that caused the break off into the head. Previous to '03 is with the plug blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. Which required a helicore insert repair to fix it.


Just let the engine cool off, if ran. Then go about ut as any other plug change. The only thing with these trucks is the P/S has less room to get to the rear 2 plugs. Just lift up on the heater core hoses and sneak your hand under he hoses with your 4" ext/socket and then push your wrench on the et and go at it.

Do not concern yourself with the plug tip seperation into cylinder.

Thanks
 
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Well I was driving home today from work and I was hearing a squeeking noise coming fromt he front driver side and thought it to be odd. When I got home I further searched the underneath and what did I see, grease, grease everywhere. The inner CV boot was torn and spewing and flicking grease everywhere.
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So I went to the auto store and purchased a make and model specific inner CV boot kit for $25.00. Looks as if it is parked until this weekend when I am able to get to it and pull the shaft out and take it apart to install the new boot and re-grease it.
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Well I purchased a new axle today instead of just relacing the boot. Did not make sense doing that as I still needed to take out the shaft to do the boot. And also trying to fit the boot over the CV knuckle. So for ease and time, and only 20 bucks more than the boot itself, I replaced it today. The only PITA part about this job was the clean-up of all the splattered grease that was from the busted boot. Man, that grease was everywhere. The sway bar was disconnected to get the shaft out, and was reconnected.

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Yeah, there are universal boots out there to use. But, I prefer to stay OEM as much as possible when it comes to replacement. And with the cost of a reman shaft it makes sense to me to just replace the whole assy. Especially as it looks as I may be keeping this ride for awhile anyway. Gives me a piece of mind going this route also.
 
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Well it looks as if I have a small rear main seal leak now. A drop or two is now escaping from it's confines.

Anyone replaced one before on a 4.6? I never have on this engine but have on many others. Is it a PITA or a simple straight forward replacement?
 
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Do those programmers allow you to update tire size with gear ratio along with fuel, air, spark and timing? I do not want it if I can not program the speedo and trans shift points due to larger tires and gears.
 
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Well I was having problems with a intermitten odometer going in and out on the digital display. So tonite I finally went and took the cluster out and took it apart. I found a cold solder joint on one of nine prongs going thru the mother board that control the digital odometer display. I re-soldered it and while I was at I went ahead and installed a white indiglo cluster overlay. After it was all done, it turned out pretty sharp. As you can see also in the pics that the odometer is working again as it should.
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Let me introduce myself, I am Bill a disabled Airborne Army Vet, I am not new to the forum world as I am a MOD on another site and Lifetime member on others. So reading and searching is the norm with me, so no need for a NOOB banner, HAHA.

Well, I just purchased a 99 Ex XLT 4x4, Gold or Tan? in color yesterday. I brought it home today. It is a cream puff of sorts as the interior is a 9.7 out of 10 and the exterior is a 9 out of 10, minus a few small scratches, 0 rust and 0 dents. The drive train is clean and dry, and all bushings and or seals are in exceptional condition, has 120k on the odometer. Only downfall as I see it is that it has the 4.6 instead of the 5.4. But too good of condition to pass up for the money spent. I just went on line and purchased about 2k worth of parts to add on next week, gotta wait on the brown truck, no fun. So here is the list of parts so far, all the red words are links to the parts,....

I went to AutoZone and got a full set of Camo seat covers with matching steering wheel cover and front and rear mats, and some vent visors. I just purchased a set of Tires, Rims, a 3/2 LIFT, and a Muffler, and Tips, also a K/N FIPK, I will get all this in the mail by Thanksgiving and have it on and up and running. I am hoping everything turns out the way I have envisioned it to look. I have built and modified many Bronco's and Explorers in the past and this is my first Expedition. So I will be posting pics of the truck tomorrow. And then pics of the build within the week as the parts come in. So it looks as if I am going to be very busy for next week or so.

I have been reading alot of threads on here and this is how I came up with this set-up I am going for.

:cheers:

Just wanted to say thanks. I love our armed forces. I am a medical reject from the Marines. Discharged Nov.1999 when I bought my Expedition. God Bless America!!
 
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Well I got the tuner in today and I installed a tune called 87 octane. After I installed the new tune, I took it for a test drive. I programmed it for the 33" tires and firmer shift points. I could not believe the difference with that tune. It takes off like it has a purpose, shifts much firmer, and the speedo is correct along with proper RPM ranges. Even at cruising speed, a partial throttle will cause the truck to take off quickly. Before the tune, the engine lagged at throttle response and required almost if not all throttle allowed to get it to take off when needed. No longer is that the issue. I am so happy with this EVOHT tuner it is just unbelievable. Money so well spent and there is 4 other tunes to use under the advance tuning. One of them is called Extreme, and I can't imagine what that will do after just using the 87 Octane tune. I recommend this to all that is looking for performance in the palm of your hand. It is alittle pricey at $400.00 to your door, but damn, it will pay for itself with fuel economy.
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