New battery, but still won't start on 2000 EB 5.4

[Steve McGarrett]

Greetings from Omaha,

I have a 2000 5.4 EB that was recently struggling to start over the course of the last month as the colder weather has started settling in.

The first couple of times I didn't think much of it as I drive it maybe once a week and the rest of the time it sits in the driveway ready for the next run to Lowes, etc. It would crank and start, but sounded weak.

The third time it started to crank but then acted like the battery just didn't have enough juice. I used a jump pack and it fired up so I was thinking that the battery was the culprit.

Fast forward to this week. I went to start it and move it off the street and back into the driveway. It wouldn't even crank, but had enough in the battery for all the lights to work, radio to run, etc.

Bit the bullet and pulled the battery and ran to Walmart to pick up a new one. Came home, put it back in and.....the same exact result.

A bit perplexed as the cables are like new and it's never had any issues until recently. Tried both keys in case it was security system/key transmitter related and it didn't make a difference. It won't even crank. When I turn the key everything lights up, but nothing else happens. Bad ignition switch? Neutral safety switch? Alien takeover?

Would appreciate any help you can offer before I start throwing parts at it.

 

[Motorcity muscle]

Could be the starter but try moving shifter, try starting it in neutral. Would also check the grounds, cables do corrode internally and can still look good on the outside.

 

[Steve McGarrett]

Thanks for the reply! Tried starting it in neutral this morning before heading to work and got the same result.

I'll give the cables a good look this weekend as I'll have actual light to see them for a change. Thanks again!

 

[Trainmaster]

Look at the starting solenoid. You can check that by shorting its terminals and seeing if it cranks. Then tap the starter with a hammer and check its terminals. If it's not the cable connections, it's possibly the starter. You'll need about 20" of socket wrench extensions to get the starter out. If I remember correctly, you reach the middle bolt through the suspension A frames.

 

[Steve McGarrett]

I'll add it to the list. Low 20's and rain tomorrow here in Omaha so perfect monkey wrenching weather! Appreciate the reply!

 

[Clemson82]

Just thinking; if it's the starter, why would it start with the jump pack? Did you check the voltage of the battery you purchased at Wal-Mart?

 

[1955moose]

A failing starter will sometimes start due to the added current of the jumper battery. My bad starter sounded like a failing battery, I had O'Reilly's swap it out then within 2 days wouldn't start without the whack on starter from hammer. Luckily I went to Serramonte Ford and grabbed a reman starter the day before it took it's final goodbye. You might try swapping the starter relay in the fuse box, with one next to it. It's possible it's failing, or you have corrosion on terminals. You guys get nasty weather that could be affecting connections. Also the simplest thing, check your motor oil level. Also try a breaker bar or ratchet and socket on harmonic balancer up front. Need to be sure motor is sound, and not freezing up. If you have to pull starter, the front bolt comes off by removing r/f tire, long extension with a swivel and I believe 14 mm 6 point socket. The rear 2 are super easy.

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[highlandre]

I had to replace my starter cable from the battery. There was too much oxidation in the wire that it wasn’t passing enough current.

 

[Steve McGarrett]

Thanks all for the help! I've been in training all week so haven't had a chance to track down all the suggestions, not to mention the truck is parked on a sheet of ice thanks to our latest storm. My son did replace the starter solenoid on the firewall, but still have the same result. I took a wire brush to the negative cable as it did have a bit of crud on it, but same result.

My next area to check is the starter cable connection on the starter itself as mentioned by highlandre. Thanks again and I'll update the thread once it's solved!

 

[1955moose]

A simple way to see if your positive cable is part or all your problem, is to very carefully hook up the red lead of a thick pair of jumper cables. Hook one end to positive lead over your battery cable, leave original cable connected. Place the other end of cable on positive post of firewall starter solenoid where battery cable attached. Use an assistant if necessary. Use just the battery that's in SUV, dont run jumper battery. if it cranks easier, then the positive cables part or all your problem.

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[Retiredusps]

I do not know if you have oem battery cables. But if you do and they are the molded style they corrode inside.You can cut them off and put cheap replacement ends.They look good but the strands are not connected on the inside. Cheap fix before starter.

 

[stamp11127]

https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/voltage-drop-testing-for-no-start.26144/

Simple check with a meter will locate resistance without taking anything apart.

 

[Steve McGarrett]

Well the snow finally melted enough that I could get underneath my beast and lo and behold the positive battery cable has corroded enough that it separated from the 90 degree connector to the starter. New one is on the way from Amazon so think I should be on the road by this time next week! Thanks to all for your help!

 

[justKen]

A good rule of thumb - if the battery has been in long enough to give it's complete service life, you can all-but guarantee that the terminals/ cables are corroded. It's common to scuff & clean the terminal, but on sealed cables this does not address the corrosion that will be present in the stranded copper at the terminal junction.

If it's time to change a battery - it's typically time to change terminals and clean the cable. New terminals (replace both) can be picked up for a few bucks while at the parts store picking up the battery, and since the cables are already disconnected and the battery is out of the box - it's perfect time to change them.

Something else to check while you're doing the work - I found a vacuum leak in the plastic lines that feed the front axle actuator where they passed by the battery. It seems the battery venting reacted with a section of the tubing causing it to degrade, become brittle, and had begun leaking. I cut out the hard/ brittle section of both lines and replaced with a rubber vacuum hose jumper. Front axle actuator works without hesitation now.

/K

 

[Steve McGarrett]

Time for an update...Due to improving weather I was able to get out and work on removing the battery cable. It was a bear but I was able to get it out and am ready to install the new one (OEM part). Has anyone done this job yet? The cable is very Medusa like and before I begin I don't know if it would be better to work from top down or bottom up.

I tried searching YouTube for a video, but they all seem to be people who hacked the original cable versus replacing it outright. Getting closer!

 

[1955moose]

If nobody mentioned this earlier, buy a Ford dvd online. Their very inexpensive, and trust me you'll use it in the future. You guys have to stop believing everything is available online it's not. These are factory Ford manuals that cover A to Z. I wish that these were around 30 years ago. We had to buy individual books, I had over $2,000 worth for cars and motorcycles. Of Course I worked on a lot of cars back then, and bikes.

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[Steve McGarrett]

So was finally able to get everything put back together after much elbow grease, cursing and questioning of Ford's engineers and.....nothing. No lights, nothing like everything is dead. Parts replaced: battery, starter solenoid (on firewall) and battery cable. Beyond frustrated. Any ideas?

I did try a portable jump pack and it made no difference.

 

[backnine29]

Not sure if this relates to your problem, but many of your symptoms and solutions I have experienced on my 2000 EB 5.4L. Turns out that if I push the shifter arm further up into park, the truck will start. Seems the shifter may not be properly seating into park. Failure to start happens often. Having regular service done tomorrow and the issue will be included in service review.

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[1955moose]

The screws that hold the switch in there come loose, causing the shift gate problem. Your problem sounds like no power reaching the solenoid, or the starter itself failed. You didn't mention jumping the starter relay, or checking if you have power to the small wire from ignition to relay, easy to check. It's time to start testing parts/power, and not changing with hope you'll stumble upon a fix. You may have to have a shop complete this job. No shame there.

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[Steve McGarrett]

View media item 6666View media item 6665Thanks for the replies! I just went out and check the little wire to the solenoid and it's connected correctly (or at least I think so). The odd thing is that before I replaced the battery cable I did have lights, radio, etc just no juice going to the starter. Now I have nothing at all.

I took a couple of pictures, but nothing from underneath as it's night out now. On the starter I have the positive going to the bottom bolt, the large negative on the upper bolt and the small negative going to the small (10mm) bolt on the solenoid. I REALLY should have taken a picture before I took the old one off as I'm doubting myself now. Is that the correct way to wire it?