Passenger door rattle on my '97 EB ?

[Shadetree]

I,m experiencing a passenger door rattle on my '97 EB..When I am on a bumpy road, it sounds like the passenger door isn't closed all the way..Iv'e checked it many times but it sounds, and looks, like it is closing all the way and the door has no play in it that I can tell..I'm wondering if someone else has had this problem? or how I can stop the rattle..The Expy has never been in an accident and the noise has been gradually getting worse..It actually sounds like the door could jar open when I hit a big bump..Hope you can help me..Thanks

 

[stamp11127]

Check for play in the door hinges by lifting up at the bottom edge of the door farthest away from the hinges. If you notice movement the hinges are worn. If not then possibly something is loose inside the door.
Cars are similar to people, we rattle as we get older....

 

[Erich Zeppelin]

I have the same problem, it turned out to be the the rod for the pull/push door lock rattling around inside the door.

 

[Shadetree]

I'll check those out tomorrow..Erich, did you fix the door rod yourself ? Thanks

 

[Erich Zeppelin]

Yes, had to take the door panel off, be careful removing the cover for the mirror, it snaps on, but the posts are in two different directions. Yep, broke mine. Wrapped the rod in electrical tape. Real quiet now.

 

[kyle_in_rure]

I have the exact same issue on my 97 EB. It gets worse if the door is unlocked so i think I may have the same problem. Is the door panel difficult to take off?


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[Shadetree]

I have the exact same issue on my 97 EB. It gets worse if the door is unlocked so i think I may have the same problem. Is the door panel difficult to take off?


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Yeah Kyle..since my door is solid with no play in the hinges..I'm hoping someone answers your question..with some tips..good luck

 

[kyle_in_rure]

Yeah Kyle..since my door is solid with no play in the hinges..I'm hoping someone answers your question..with some tips..good luck

I may get my repair manual out tonight when I get back and see if it tells how to take them off. I'm not bold enough to just start prying at it haha.


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[Shadetree]

Yeah..sounds like we've both been down that road ..and end up with a bigger problem
Even after reading the book, these guys usually come up with some helpful tips..

 

[stamp11127]

Shadetree, need your email address

 

[Erich Zeppelin]

No, it comes off really easy, be careful with the mirror cover and do not remove the power window control cover, it will break. Remove the door panel first, then disconnect the electrical connectors.

 

[Shadetree]

Thanks Erich I hope to be trying that tomorrow...

 

[IMINYOURCHAIR]

On the mirror bezel, just pop it loose at the top corner, then it has two pins going into the main door panel, so pull the top to you then pull up and out, just be careful and observe where it's catching and it'll pretty well tell you how it needs to come out..

I can attest to the window switch trim being brittle. All four of mine are broken and I didn't even pull them myself the first time. found the broken clips in the panel when I replaced the speakers...

On a side note, anyone know where I can find them for the teal/green interior?? pull-a-part doesn't have any for my interior color.

 

[kyle_in_rure]

Here's a picture of the two mirror cover pins. I was able to pull straight out (gently) and get the top one, and then pull straight up to get the bottom pin (and the whole cover) detached.


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[kyle_in_rure]

In case anyone is interested...

I took my door cover off today to figure out what was causing my rattle/squeak noise. I actually had no trouble taking off the power window trim plate, just a flat screwdriver behind it and it popped right up. I couldn't undo the electrical connectors for some reason so I just left them attached and slipped the power window cover through the hole in the door. One of the screws holding the door panel on was actually under this cover, so it must be removed first (at least in my case).

The other two screws are behind the mirror cover and behind the courtesy light on the bottom of the door.

I also had to take off the trim around the door handle and remove the door handle (it's a 5/16" bolt).

My problem ended up being something to do with the locking mechanism that is inside the door just above the courtesy light. I had to pull back the waterproof membrane to find it. It was loose and rattling for some reason. I couldn't reach it very well, because it was behind the main frame of the door. So I just wedged a rubber washer in between it and the frame and my problem is solved.

Hope this is helpful to someone,and thanks to everyone for responding to this thread.

 

[Shadetree]

Thanks Kyle.. Couldn't get to it today, hopefully tomorrow..
Thanks

 

[Shadetree]

Thanks guys...I finally got out this evening as soon as I could find a shadetree (It cooled down to only 90% in the shade) I am rather disappointed..and I blame it on you guys..I started with a six-pack of Coronas on ice and was only able to finish two of them..The job went entirely too smooth..Same problem Kyle had..I just put in a flat piece of rubber with some silicone on the back and wallah...I don't know how it got so loose..the connectors look fine..I guess it's just wear..The Doc did the same thing to my shoulder but he charged me 20 grand It's the first time I've had anything go back togetner as easy as it came apart...Time for another Corona....Oh yeah..while working on the door I noticed that the upper rubber stops on the drivers and passengers door is missing..Does anyone know if the uppers are the same length as the lowers? and where I can find them..?...Again, thanks

 

[Shadetree]

 

[Shadetree]

F Y I .. Just an update regarding rubber bumper stops for the doors.. couldn't find them at any of the auto parts places or anywhere.. I finally found them at SouthWest Ford in Weatherford, Texas for $2.60 for a package of 4... great folks.. their web address is... SouthwestFordparts.com....