my '05 has been doing the same thing for years. sounded like a plastic gear that kept trying to turn after it reached its limit. my will only do it if the fan is on 1 or 4. if its on high or low it doesn't do it. I has not affected anything so I have not messed with it.
Popping Noise From Rear A/C Blower '03 Expo
- Thread starter bchampion
- Start date
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GAINMOB
Full Access Members
yall need to spend the $50 for the parts and replace it...very easy to do...take off that side...4 screws on the motor...unplug...reinput...replace panel...and the $50 is to replace both...might as well replace them so u wont have to go back in again...
AskMeLater
Well-Known Member
I just replaced the rear floor/roof selector a couple days ago...AGAIN! This time it's the OEM Ford part (Motorcraft p/n YH-1743) Hopefully it will last longer than the Dorman part that I've tried twice in the past five months!
skywagon
Member
Getting at the lower air blend actuator
Thanks to all for the many details. . .
My 2003XLT has the lower, hot/cold, actuator with stripped gears. With the tray & drink holder popped out, they can both be viewed..
What I need is the specific details on what to pop loose/unscrew to get the side panel popped out just enough so a guy with normal sized hands can get his hand & as small wrench in to release the motor actuator & get a new one installed.
I would really appreciate those details. Thanks
Thanks to all for the many details. . .
My 2003XLT has the lower, hot/cold, actuator with stripped gears. With the tray & drink holder popped out, they can both be viewed..
What I need is the specific details on what to pop loose/unscrew to get the side panel popped out just enough so a guy with normal sized hands can get his hand & as small wrench in to release the motor actuator & get a new one installed.
I would really appreciate those details. Thanks
GAINMOB
Full Access Members
Ur hands wont fit becuz there are screws holding it in place that are too difficult to get out...i spent 30 minutes trying not to take of the panel...only takes 5 minutes to take the panel off...trust me it worth taking it off
skywagon
Member
Details for popping off the side panel. . .
The removal of the side panel "in 5 minutes" sounds great. . !!
I have not had that panel off before. Thus, I don't know where to effectively start. Where the screws are to remove and where to press on the molded in snaps that probably have to be depressed before panel pops free from the associated moldings.
Those details/steps would be very helpful. . .Thanks
The removal of the side panel "in 5 minutes" sounds great. . !!
I have not had that panel off before. Thus, I don't know where to effectively start. Where the screws are to remove and where to press on the molded in snaps that probably have to be depressed before panel pops free from the associated moldings.
Those details/steps would be very helpful. . .Thanks
gulfman
Full Access Members
This site will show you how.
Autoclinix.com: Free Do-It-Yourself Automotive Repair Instructions
Autoclinix.com: Free Do-It-Yourself Automotive Repair Instructions
skywagon
Member
Thanks GuilfMan for the web link to this Ford site. The details are very clear. It is a shame that Ford designs made this simple repair envolve so many steps get to the actuator. These actuators look very mickey mouse using plastic gears in the primary gear set. Would be a terrific option if someone familiar with the model RC car hobbys found an exact set of metal gears that would pop into this gear train location.
bllon42s
New Member
Hey im new to the form and looking in to buying a expedition soon.
But any way I don't now if this will help but my dad has a 2002 Chevy trail blazer and It made the exact same noise
What caused it was unhooking the battery when you didn't have all the blower setting turned off
the only way to fix it was with ever thing turned off unhook the battery cable for about 30 seconds then put it back on and get in shut the door and turn the key to the run position and then dont touch any thing for 2 1/2 minutes and it recalibrateted ever thing and it hasn't done it since
but that was a Chevrolet and there probably not the same but its worth a try hope it helps
But any way I don't now if this will help but my dad has a 2002 Chevy trail blazer and It made the exact same noise
What caused it was unhooking the battery when you didn't have all the blower setting turned off
the only way to fix it was with ever thing turned off unhook the battery cable for about 30 seconds then put it back on and get in shut the door and turn the key to the run position and then dont touch any thing for 2 1/2 minutes and it recalibrateted ever thing and it hasn't done it since
but that was a Chevrolet and there probably not the same but its worth a try hope it helps
GAINMOB
Full Access Members
Not for expeditions...there are 2 motors in the rear ac area that around 7-10 yrs give out due to the gears in the box...of course this depends on how much u use it as well
skywagon
Member
Steps to Removing the Side Panel. . .
Gulfman. . again, thanks for that by-the-step link to pulling that side panel.
I have 2 additions that I would add to that procedure for future forum readers.
1. On step #4, there is also a plasic button above the seat belt attach point and must be popped out. Under that is an 8 mm bolt that holds the paneling.
2. Tie a string to the 8 mm wrench you maybe using to remove the 4 mounting screws of the blend actuator. If you happen to drop the small wrench, it falls a long way down into the narrow floor level area.
skywagon
Gulfman. . again, thanks for that by-the-step link to pulling that side panel.
I have 2 additions that I would add to that procedure for future forum readers.
1. On step #4, there is also a plasic button above the seat belt attach point and must be popped out. Under that is an 8 mm bolt that holds the paneling.
2. Tie a string to the 8 mm wrench you maybe using to remove the 4 mounting screws of the blend actuator. If you happen to drop the small wrench, it falls a long way down into the narrow floor level area.
skywagon
gulfman
Full Access Members
Hope it all works out. My hands were all scratched when I was done. The job is just a pain in the ass.
I know this is an old post but I read it before I was a member - and now I'm a member I feel I should say thanks!
I could add one tip. If you do find the actuator arm moves over time (which mine did) simply slot in the arm control from the removed control box. I then used a couple of cable ties to keep it in place set to roof.
We seldom actually have people in the back, but if we do the fan controls still work from front or back, they just cant choose roof or feet LOL
Popping Noise from Rear A/C
On my 2003 Expedition I just replaced /repaired the Rear A/C actuators. There are 2. One is top mounted and one is side mounted. They are in the passenger side, rear panel next to the third row seat. The clicking noise is caused by a stripped gear in the actuator (gear box), which is easily removed and replaced.
In my case, I replaced the top one, the air distribution actuator, which had a stripped gear in it, only to find that the original clicking sound came from the side mounted one, the Temperature Blend Door Actuator. Consequently I then replaced (repaired) the side mounted one.
Lucky for me, I opened each actuator case and saw the stripped gear in each. In the side mounted actuator, I found that the stripped gear was the smaller of the 2 gears. It happened that this smaller gear matched the smaller gear from the top mounted actuator (which was not stripped) so I swapped the good one for the bad one and fixed two actuators by only buying one replacement.
The best You Tube videos for these is FordTechMakuloco. Check him out!
On my 2003 Expedition I just replaced /repaired the Rear A/C actuators. There are 2. One is top mounted and one is side mounted. They are in the passenger side, rear panel next to the third row seat. The clicking noise is caused by a stripped gear in the actuator (gear box), which is easily removed and replaced.
In my case, I replaced the top one, the air distribution actuator, which had a stripped gear in it, only to find that the original clicking sound came from the side mounted one, the Temperature Blend Door Actuator. Consequently I then replaced (repaired) the side mounted one.
Lucky for me, I opened each actuator case and saw the stripped gear in each. In the side mounted actuator, I found that the stripped gear was the smaller of the 2 gears. It happened that this smaller gear matched the smaller gear from the top mounted actuator (which was not stripped) so I swapped the good one for the bad one and fixed two actuators by only buying one replacement.
The best You Tube videos for these is FordTechMakuloco. Check him out!
Last edited:
Zylfrax791
Member
It's the actuator box for the rear unit vent duct door. The plastic gear strips off the teeth inside and it's basically toast and it makes the annoying noise. It's around $60 from the dealer and you need a T50 Torx to take of the seatbelt bolt to get the upper trim off to get the lower trim off to get access to the unit.
kjohn241
New Member
clicking noise
I have a 2003 Expedition with the same problem. Found it to be the motor that controls the louver door. It is what changes air flow from the ceiling to the floor. It's under the right rear wheel well cover. The motor can be found on e-bay, "motor craft
part" for around ninety dollars. If you feel like going to your local dealer it will cost over a hundred.. Remove the rectangle panel from the right side in the rear of the vehicle to gain access..
I have a 2003 Expedition with the same problem. Found it to be the motor that controls the louver door. It is what changes air flow from the ceiling to the floor. It's under the right rear wheel well cover. The motor can be found on e-bay, "motor craft
part" for around ninety dollars. If you feel like going to your local dealer it will cost over a hundred.. Remove the rectangle panel from the right side in the rear of the vehicle to gain access..My 04 has this issue in the rear. I went to the junkyard and salvaged a bunch of gears fro a few acutator boxes- they didnt have any exact fit acutators but the gears are all the same.
When I put it back in and test it, the motor never stops turning. So, when I change the blend, it turns the gears till the door closes, and then keeps trying to turn the gears. It stripped the first new gear, but I got extras so im good there.
What tells the motor to stop spinning the gears? Ive tested with one of the 3 gears removed, and the motor will spin both directions, when the blend is changed. But it never stops spinning in that direction.
Seems so simple, cant figure it out.
When I put it back in and test it, the motor never stops turning. So, when I change the blend, it turns the gears till the door closes, and then keeps trying to turn the gears. It stripped the first new gear, but I got extras so im good there.
What tells the motor to stop spinning the gears? Ive tested with one of the 3 gears removed, and the motor will spin both directions, when the blend is changed. But it never stops spinning in that direction.
Seems so simple, cant figure it out.
GAINMOB
Full Access Members
When I had this problem I got the part numbers and bought both on ebay for $50...easy install 20 mins later good to go
Mr. 10K
Mr. 10K
krazy_dan27
Member
I know exactly what it is
It's your rear AC air directional actuator. You have two of them. The popping is the flap motor driver resetting or activating over and over. I took the panel apart, unplugged the power and set it to floor direction. You switch on the rear AC, no popping. This of course is a temp fix till you order and actuator replacement thru your dealer for $99. Or you to a you pull it yard and get one for $50
It's your rear AC air directional actuator. You have two of them. The popping is the flap motor driver resetting or activating over and over. I took the panel apart, unplugged the power and set it to floor direction. You switch on the rear AC, no popping. This of course is a temp fix till you order and actuator replacement thru your dealer for $99. Or you to a you pull it yard and get one for $50
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