Power surge?

[98eb5.4]

Blend door for sure works, put a hole behind glove box to make sure it was moving, and solenoids? What solenoids? And for stamp11127, I've flushed it 3 times now, rust stopped coming out but still little flow. Really don't want to put 16+ hours into tearing the dash apart and putting it back together. And thank you for that, I didn't know that, during summer break (still in school) I'll see if I can do that.

there's a vid out there, 2 dudes who know their stuff pulled a dash like in ~ 10 minutes, maybe 20

fwiw, i've also seen universal aux heaters for sale that are setup inside and plumb into 2 hoses from the vehicle for intake/return flow

 

[toomanytoys]

How about the heater valve

 

[Nick Nielsen]

Heater valve? I was under the assumption from reading online it was just actuators. And I'll definitely look into that 98eb. Now, back to the engine studder,surge or whatever you will call it. Is it possible it could be caused from shifting alone?

 

[toomanytoys]

The only way shifting would cause that would be if the converter was trying to lock up in the lower gears which is nearly impossible

 

[Blue Boy]

When was the last time you got a tune-up, change oil?

 

[Nick Nielsen]

Oil was changed in the shop about 6 months ago or about 1500-2000 miles ago. And same goes for the plugs replaced along with coils, they were replaced in the shop. I just replaced the diff fluid about 200 miles ago because it was howling (hopefully it's not failing) and I haven't heard anything since so let's stay positive there. It studdered again today as well, I was peaking over a hill at about 1800-2000 rpm and it kicked. Happened about 2-3 times on my 15 min ride home from school. Still have no clue what it could possibly be.

 

[stamp11127]

I would monitor the fuel trims at the rpm range that is giving trouble. That is one method of determining if you are fighting a vacuum leak.

http://www.easterncatalytic.com/education/tech-tips/fuel-trim-can-be-a-valuable-diagnostic-tool/

Similar to when you go to the doctor, they know what "normal" should be and are looking for something out of range.

 

[1955moose]

As stamp said about your heater core, be sure hose going in and out are warm. A cold outlet hose is a plugged core. As far as the stumble off idle, you might have a flat spot on your throttle position sensor. Their a ***** to remove screws, so rerun codes or be sure before you change. You stated #4 and #8 were running lean according to scan. 4 is the one way in back on passenger side on Fords, and 8, you guessed it the furthest back on drivers side. The two hardest plugs/ cops to get at on 4.6/5.4 engines. As stated earlier low compression would affect power throughout the rpm range, not at a specific spot during acceleration.Is their any stumble or missing at higher rpm, or just in that range? Are their any Exaust/ intake leaks? Does it idle smoothly. Usually if you have a bad cop or coil on plug, that's what it stands for or electric boot, their will be a bucking sensation, like flicking off and on a light switch. Well their you have some things to check, or have your mechanic look at. Keep us posted as always, it helps other readers with similar problems. Moose


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[Nick Nielsen]

Thats what stumped me, both sides are running hot, there was a small temperature difference but wasn't anything major between the two lines. And lol, I know, I went down the whole passenger side (1-4) and put dialetric grease in them to try to make them a little more 'waterproof' if you will. And it only surges in that rpm range most of the time, should be no intake leaks, replaced intake gasket, and it purrs like a freaking kitten, no jumping or knocks or anything at idle, thinking about dropping it back off at the shop but I don't really have them money as I'm a student in high school and I'm only putting in 25 hours a week or so.

 

[1955moose]

One simple thing you can do with a volt/ ohmmeter is check your voltage at throttle position sensor. If memory serves it should be .06 to 1.1 volts with key on and no throttle. Then when you slowly move throttle, it should smoothly move from the 1.0 volt to about 4.5 volts at full throttle. If your problem is the tps switch, the voltage will be jumpy around 1.5 to 2.5 volts. That's around where your problem is. Sorry can't remember the colors to probe, you can get that online, or maybe one of the other members can chime in with that info. If you do that test, and don't have a code for tps, you can scratch that from list. I would also spray out your throttle body real well, could be a lot of buildup inside. Also buy a can of maf sensor cleaner, and spray down your sensor on air filter tube. Keep us informed what you get.


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