My truck is on it's last legs but I would love to have the rear ac working for my 5 year old who roasts in the back. Can I just manually move the blend door? It blows hot in the back, no clicking. I DO NOT want to fix this properly just move the blend door to cold side. Which one is it? From what I have read there are 2 actuators? Thanks in advance.
Rear A/C quick fix?
- Thread starter ONEBADMK8
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
On the 2005 the blend door actuator is at the top just underneath the RH cup holder of the rear RH trim panel.
If you half ass fix it then won't he/she will freeze in winter? Why not do it right to begin with?
If you half ass fix it then won't he/she will freeze in winter? Why not do it right to begin with?
Hamfisted
Full Access Members
I would just replace the actuator module and fix it right. Getting to it is the same amount of work, and for $60 you can fix it right. The vent blend door (high or low vents) module is the easy one, under the cup holder. The temp control module is a little harder since it's down on the side and requires removing the quarter panel trim. If it is blowing hot then it's the harder one on the side of the unit. You can pull the tray up and get your hand in there to unplug it easy enough, but if you want to replace it you'll have to pull the quarter panel and trim off to gain access. Maybe disconnecting the hot water hoses that run to the rear would be easier for some kind of cheap fix. I'm not sure since that's not the way I fix things.
-Mike
Ford-XW7Z-19E616-BA-TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR module-assembly on Amazon $60
Expedition Rear VENT Blend Door Actuator on Amazon $35 ....
The module circled in green is the vent blend door actuator module.... red is temp blend door module....
-Mike
Ford-XW7Z-19E616-BA-TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR module-assembly on Amazon $60
Expedition Rear VENT Blend Door Actuator on Amazon $35 ....
The module circled in green is the vent blend door actuator module.... red is temp blend door module....
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She will not freeze, never has, heat from front gets back there pretty good. The heat in NJ is ridiculous and unbearable most of the Summer. This truck is on it's last legs this is why I am not fixing it right. Ill just swing the door over to the cold side. Thanks for the location.
Flexpedition
Full Access Members
When you remove the bad actuator, pop it open and inside you will see a combination of plastic gears driven by a small motor, example shown below. One or more of those gears will likely have broken or worn teeth. Try repositioning the broken one(s) 180°. Could be a more viable $0.00 solution.
Another free opportunity would be to run the self check. I'm not 100% that this carries over to the Expedition, but other Fords with similar looking EATC supposedly will disable the blend door if it detects a fault. Unplugging the car battery or the actuator will supposedly reset everything, but diagnosing the EATC will tell you for sure what the problem is:
Press and hold the OFF button on the head unit, then press FLOOR while still holding down OFF. Now quickly release both buttons and press the AUTOMATIC button.
At this point a little line will appear to rotate in the middle of the display. This indicates testing is in progress.
The test can take what seems to be a long while when you're waiting for it! Just let it run and don't worry.
At the end, the display will begin flashing numbers, or it will simply light up everything on the display and halt.
If only "888" appears for the number, and everything else on the display is lit up, then you have passed the advanced self-test.
If there are numbers, write them down as they appear. Here's what they mean:
022, 024 - Blend door actuator shorted
025 - Blend door actuator not responding properly
030 - cabin temp sensor shorted (either wiring or bad sensor)
031 - cabin temp sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
040, 042 - outside (ambient) sensor shorted (wiring or bad sensor)
041, 043 - outside (ambient) sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
050, 052 - solar radiation sensor shorted
This is assuming you have the digital, not manual, climate control. Good luck either way.
The photo Hamfisted posted... you do not need to remove the entire interior trim panel to access/swap the actuator. You just need to remove cupholder trim and the actuators 3 bolts, 8mm IIRC. However, to get a tool (like a screwdriver) down into the keyway to move the blend door, that might just require removing the entire interior trim panel. And hopefully that door isn't spring loaded, or on a horizontal design which gravity will just flop back closed, or a verticle design which might change it on acceleration. Not sure if the actuator just moves the door, or if it moves AND holds the door. Which for me would make the $35 seem worth it.
Another free opportunity would be to run the self check. I'm not 100% that this carries over to the Expedition, but other Fords with similar looking EATC supposedly will disable the blend door if it detects a fault. Unplugging the car battery or the actuator will supposedly reset everything, but diagnosing the EATC will tell you for sure what the problem is:
Press and hold the OFF button on the head unit, then press FLOOR while still holding down OFF. Now quickly release both buttons and press the AUTOMATIC button.
At this point a little line will appear to rotate in the middle of the display. This indicates testing is in progress.
The test can take what seems to be a long while when you're waiting for it! Just let it run and don't worry.
At the end, the display will begin flashing numbers, or it will simply light up everything on the display and halt.
If only "888" appears for the number, and everything else on the display is lit up, then you have passed the advanced self-test.
If there are numbers, write them down as they appear. Here's what they mean:
022, 024 - Blend door actuator shorted
025 - Blend door actuator not responding properly
030 - cabin temp sensor shorted (either wiring or bad sensor)
031 - cabin temp sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
040, 042 - outside (ambient) sensor shorted (wiring or bad sensor)
041, 043 - outside (ambient) sensor not connected or failed (open circuit)
050, 052 - solar radiation sensor shorted
This is assuming you have the digital, not manual, climate control. Good luck either way.
The photo Hamfisted posted... you do not need to remove the entire interior trim panel to access/swap the actuator. You just need to remove cupholder trim and the actuators 3 bolts, 8mm IIRC. However, to get a tool (like a screwdriver) down into the keyway to move the blend door, that might just require removing the entire interior trim panel. And hopefully that door isn't spring loaded, or on a horizontal design which gravity will just flop back closed, or a verticle design which might change it on acceleration. Not sure if the actuator just moves the door, or if it moves AND holds the door. Which for me would make the $35 seem worth it.
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barberjb
Member
It is possible to replace either of these modules without removing the trim panel. That's how I did it at least. I didn't bother to put all the screws back, but I was able to get them all out with a small rachet. Just pull out that tray on top and and reach down in there.
03ExFX4
Active Member
I would just order the Dorman Rear Actuator and replace it. I think the part number was 604-202. I got mine off of amazon for around $30 and it has worked great. Also get some trim removal tools. Takes about 5-10 minutes to remove the necessary trim. Once that is off, you can lean the lower trim piece covering the blower unit away from the unit and remove the old actuator with ease.
I have done it twice, once for the actuator and once for the expansion valve, and I did not find it bad at all.
You can crank the old one to blow just cold air, as that is what the dealer I took mine to did to "resolve" the issue. Just make sure you leave it unplugged so that it does not actuate as they did.
I have done it twice, once for the actuator and once for the expansion valve, and I did not find it bad at all.
You can crank the old one to blow just cold air, as that is what the dealer I took mine to did to "resolve" the issue. Just make sure you leave it unplugged so that it does not actuate as they did.
Skauber
Full Access Members
Could be broken temp blend door, or it could be low on refrigerant or some other AC issue. Do you see water condensation dripping from above the tail pipe?
Skauber
Full Access Members
No water may indicate that the rear evaporator is not getting cold, this may be due to low charge on the system or a blocked expansion valve. If the system is low on refrigerant, you may have a leak somewhere. To be sure, you have to diagnose it further, filling the AC may or may not help, and it may be a temporary fix if you have a leak somewhere.
I did notice one of the AC hoses kinda hot when I was changing the temperature blend door . But as soon is I have a day off ill refill the freon . Hopefully that fix it. Thanks for the reply .
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03ExFX4
Active Member
AZexpy,
I would second that your Expansion Valve is bad. I had the same problem after replacing the blend door actuator. Replaced the Expansion Valve and my rear A/C is nice and cold. I picked mine up for $20-$30 off of amazon. It is a hassle to replace because of evacuating and refilling your system. Getting to the valve is not too bad, but you have to be careful when you are refilling the system. You do not want to overfill or under fill the system. A good set of R-134a gauges and a solid vacuum pump will get you by. I rented my pump from autozone for free and picked up my R-134a from walmart.
I'm glad I got mine done before this toasty AZ summer.
I would second that your Expansion Valve is bad. I had the same problem after replacing the blend door actuator. Replaced the Expansion Valve and my rear A/C is nice and cold. I picked mine up for $20-$30 off of amazon. It is a hassle to replace because of evacuating and refilling your system. Getting to the valve is not too bad, but you have to be careful when you are refilling the system. You do not want to overfill or under fill the system. A good set of R-134a gauges and a solid vacuum pump will get you by. I rented my pump from autozone for free and picked up my R-134a from walmart.
I'm glad I got mine done before this toasty AZ summer.
Do you have the part number ? Or what's the correct name to it so I can look it up. Am not sure if I could fill up the system myself . Lol . If is as easy as changing the actuators then I can. Where in AZ you at ?
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GAINMOB
Full Access Members
part should be $25...not $50 and check the refrigerant as stated above...may need a charge
03ExFX4
Active Member
It was a Four Seasons 39092 expansion valve. Or you can go with the motorcraft one, but I forget the part # for that.
I'm over in Gilbert.
I'm over in Gilbert.
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