Rear AC

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

gel937

New Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2022
Posts
3
Reaction score
0
Location
Celina Texas
I just purchased a 2012 Expedition Limited.

The rear AC is making a grinding noise when initially turned on. It lasts only a few minutes. It then runs smoothly.

What might be causing this noise?

Thanks
 

Motorcity muscle

Full Access Members
Joined
May 6, 2018
Posts
612
Reaction score
221
Location
Motorcity
Welcome to site, in the upper right corner is a search option, type in your question under third gen and you will see quite a few post on the rear HVAC. Blend door is the likely problem.
 

BlackBetty

Full Access Members
Army
Joined
Feb 1, 2021
Posts
427
Reaction score
168
Location
Surprise, AZ
I have an ‘04 and ‘16. This is what I had to do when the ‘04 started making the noise. I would verify the steps still apply with the your newer model. I found this awhile back, and saved it. Worked for me. If someone knows something different please chime in.



“Tools Required: 5/16" socket (1/4in drive is better than larger in my opinion), phillips screwdriver, Torque head socket, and maybe a trim tool to jimmy the trim off in some spots.
Parts Required: Got mine from Oriellly Auto Parts ($34) it's a Dorman Heater Blend Door Acutator:

Part # 604-213- lower
Part # 604-202- upper

"Easy" One
1. Simply Pop off the Long Change/crap holder underneath the rear passenger side glass. (Snaps right out with a little pressure but be careful).
2. Turn on your car and adjust the Rear A/C until you hear the thumping.
3. You will see the Rear A/C unit and right on top is an White/Opaque square box. Unplug the wiring harness from this box and see if it stops. If it does you are in luck! If not see "Hard" One
4. Pop out the cup holder just in front of the open trim hole (you will need to to get another hand in there)
5. Use your 5/16" socket and remove. Place the new part in it's place.
6. Make sure you align the pin (Do this by pluging the wiring harness into the new unit and have someone adjust the Hot/Cold until the pin lines up and the new actuator slips in correctly and the bolt hoes line up.
7. Bolt in and Test....Replace the trim and you are done.

'Hard" One
1. Do above procedure until step 3 if the thumping does not stop put the wiring harness back in "Easy" one and locate the 2nd actuator which is a little farther forward and along the side next to the trim. Disconnect that wiring harness and verify the thumping stops. If it does not stop...Sorry you are SOL for this thread. If it does stop, make sure you have a couple hours to devote to replacing this. If you don't just leave it disconnected until you have time (at least the thumping has stopped but you will likely have drastic temps in the rear)
2. Now you basically need to remove the rear trim panel enough to get the space to remove this unit.
3. Below is the order I would take the trim off...Just need a little force to get the clips out
A-remove the spare tire lid, and jack
B- remove the skid trim
C- remove the black jack liner 5/16" socket and a rubber gasket and it snaps out
D- remove the top center trim
E- Use Torque head socket to remove the top seat belt bolt
F- unscrew the plastic screw which hold down the rear panel trim "ear" to the frame
G- snap off the upper Corner post trim enough to get the rear panel snapped out
H- snap off the rear panel enough so you have some room to work (there won't be much but there is enough to get in there) otherwise you will have to take the entire panel off which I did not do.
4. Unbolt the actuator 5/16" socket Qty 4
5. Place the new part in it's place.
6. Make sure you align the pin (Do this by plugging the wiring harness into the new unit and have someone adjust the Hot/Cold until the pin lines up and the new actuator slips in correctly and the bolt hoes line up.
7. Bolt in and test... replace the trim, and your done.”
 
Top