Silver99Xlt4.6
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I sold it ..
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Replaced Water pump, Thermostat, Belt
- Thread starter Silver99Xlt4.6
- Start date
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Captain Morgan
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Hi, what does this mean? Does it appear to be overheating? What does temperature gauge indicate?
When you refilled the radiator and reservoir, did you run it a while with the cap off?
Remove the cap, run it till it's warmed up and fill just enough to cover the radiator core. Add the mix to the reservoir and close to cap.
You did add the proper amount of antifreeze yes? Not just water.
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stamp11127
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If I remember correctly these are 16lb systems which would seem high compared to the 10 lb older cars. If it is puking coolant out of the tank I'd read the pressure with a gauge or look for bubbles in the tank while it is running. What coolant did you use, premixed or concentrate, tap water or distilled?
Silver99Xlt4.6
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Silver99Xlt4.6
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Captain Morgan
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If you had blockage in the water jackets in the engine it would be a constant restriction to the water flow.
If the thermostat you just put in doesn't open all the way up then the temperature would rise immediately as the engine warms and once a thermostat opens, it doesn't magically close again and then open again.
If the pump stops pumping at any point, then the water trapped in the engine water jackets immediately over heats and builds excessive pressure. Your temperature sensor says your over heating and the pressure and bubbling over says your over heating.
My gut says either the pump stops pumping due to belt slippage or you have a rebuilt water pump and it's also bad and should be swapped again.
Remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Fill the radiator until you see the water in the neck at the top and just watch. When the engine warms sufficiently the thermostat opens allowing water to circulate which you should be able to observe. This also should let the water evenly distribute through the system and the level in the neck you observed will drop. You should hear the water circulating and if you can see it, add more antifreeze to raise the level and compensate for the water you just added.
Let the engine run for 30 minutes at idle and watch that temp gauge and water level.
If nothing happens at that point, add the radiator cap back and idle for another 30 minutes watching the temp gauge, listen for any squeals from the water pump area.
The answer to slippage is to re tighten the belt and tension pully.
The answer to no water flow is replace the water pump and the thermostat. You may want to have the water jackets in the engine blown out with high air pressure. I'm not sure if they can be snaked or not.
Have you see any rust in the cooling system?
.
If the thermostat you just put in doesn't open all the way up then the temperature would rise immediately as the engine warms and once a thermostat opens, it doesn't magically close again and then open again.
If the pump stops pumping at any point, then the water trapped in the engine water jackets immediately over heats and builds excessive pressure. Your temperature sensor says your over heating and the pressure and bubbling over says your over heating.
My gut says either the pump stops pumping due to belt slippage or you have a rebuilt water pump and it's also bad and should be swapped again.
Remove the radiator cap and start the engine. Fill the radiator until you see the water in the neck at the top and just watch. When the engine warms sufficiently the thermostat opens allowing water to circulate which you should be able to observe. This also should let the water evenly distribute through the system and the level in the neck you observed will drop. You should hear the water circulating and if you can see it, add more antifreeze to raise the level and compensate for the water you just added.
Let the engine run for 30 minutes at idle and watch that temp gauge and water level.
If nothing happens at that point, add the radiator cap back and idle for another 30 minutes watching the temp gauge, listen for any squeals from the water pump area.
The answer to slippage is to re tighten the belt and tension pully.
The answer to no water flow is replace the water pump and the thermostat. You may want to have the water jackets in the engine blown out with high air pressure. I'm not sure if they can be snaked or not.
Have you see any rust in the cooling system?
.
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trdragons44
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I don't know about the 99+ motors but on my 97 the radiator cap is actually on the overflow bottle. The overflow bottle is tied in at the lower rad hose. So if his is the same he would have to take the upper hose off to see if there is flow.
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Silver99Xlt4.6
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Captain Morgan
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"Put it in a Pot of water on the Stove to check if it opens Correctly "
Exactly.
"The overflow bottle is tied in at the lower rad hose. So if his is the same he would have to take the upper hose off to see if there is flow.
"
That's interesting. And disturbing.
.
Exactly.
"The overflow bottle is tied in at the lower rad hose. So if his is the same he would have to take the upper hose off to see if there is flow.
"
That's interesting. And disturbing.
.
Silver99Xlt4.6
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stamp11127
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Don't use tap water when mixing coolant, use distilled water instead. For one reason only, the lack of minerals in the distilled water helps combat electrolysis in the cooling system. Since you had straight water in the engine at one time you have scale and rust deposits that have diminished the cooling capacity of the radiator - as stated in your original post- missing pump blades.
Anytime I run across that scenario I always replace the water pump, hoses, radiator and in worse cases the heater core. Less aggravation in the long run and the vehicle is out of commission once. Logic being the previous owner hasn't maintained the cooling system so therefore it is all faulty.
Bad news is the freeze plugs are probably close to being toast from using water. Time will tell - freeze plugs aren't much thicker than the blades on the pump.
Coolant ratios should be based on the temps you plan on operating the vehicle in. More coolant isn't always better and it reduces the freezing point. A 60/40 mix is good for -62F, 50/50 is good for -34F. Why mix 60/40 if your not in those temps?
If you do use tap water to mix, check for stray voltage in your cooling system by placing the neg lead of a voltmeter on the neg battery post and the positive in your coolant tank when cold not touching any metal, engine running. Max reading is 0.3v dc. Optimum is 0.0-.1. A reading of .5v will eat through cast iron.
Anytime I run across that scenario I always replace the water pump, hoses, radiator and in worse cases the heater core. Less aggravation in the long run and the vehicle is out of commission once. Logic being the previous owner hasn't maintained the cooling system so therefore it is all faulty.
Bad news is the freeze plugs are probably close to being toast from using water. Time will tell - freeze plugs aren't much thicker than the blades on the pump.
Coolant ratios should be based on the temps you plan on operating the vehicle in. More coolant isn't always better and it reduces the freezing point. A 60/40 mix is good for -62F, 50/50 is good for -34F. Why mix 60/40 if your not in those temps?
If you do use tap water to mix, check for stray voltage in your cooling system by placing the neg lead of a voltmeter on the neg battery post and the positive in your coolant tank when cold not touching any metal, engine running. Max reading is 0.3v dc. Optimum is 0.0-.1. A reading of .5v will eat through cast iron.
Silver99Xlt4.6
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Silver99Xlt4.6
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FordandPolaris
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Where is the oil leaking from? Probably just needs a new gasket put in. About the only thing that will fix that.
stamp11127
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What is giving you the notion of too much pressure in the system?
Oil leaks - We normally warm them up after a good cleaning and run on fast idle for 15-30 mins then check for leaks.
Oil leaks - We normally warm them up after a good cleaning and run on fast idle for 15-30 mins then check for leaks.
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Silver99Xlt4.6
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Silver99Xlt4.6
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Silver99Xlt4.6
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1997SCEBFEX
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Pic of the Oil Filter Adapter Bracket area? Are you saying that your 4.6 has the oil filter behind the driver's bumper?
Is there any chance that the last time the oil was changed that the old filter gasket is still on the filter base? This sometimes happens and when the new filter is put on, it leaks. Sure you checked, but wanted to ask nevertheless.
I'm also sure you checked your oil lines if in fact you have the remote location?
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