Replacing door-jamb switch. Help needed.

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threechorder

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So after searching here, youtube, google, etc., I thought this shouldn't be too hard. Boy was I wrong! Three hours yesterday spent with my hands in unseeable tight spots and all I've got to show for it are a few cuts, some sore spots, and a lot of grease stains. I put everything back together and am considering letting a shop put the new part in. But, obviously, I don't really want to do that or I wouldn't be here...

I'm replacing the switch because it seems like it's busted. When the driver's door is opened the interior light does not come on (like the other doors), the chime does not activate if the lights are left on or if the keys are left in the ignition. The fuse is good. So I gather, through my research, it is the door-jamb switch.

So I removed the door panel, the lock set, and the exterior door handle. I can get to the switch (with much effort), but I can't get enough of a turn on it to get it free (sites I've read say give it a 1/4 turn push with your thumb - yeah right!).

What's the secret here? Anyone done this? And, on the driver's side is the turn clockwise or counter-clockwise? Any other help or ideas?

Thanks in advance.
 

Bedrck47

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turn CCW I have never replaced the switch so I can't offer any other advice than what has been offered
 

FordandPolaris

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They make small ratcheting wrenches that are completely flat (Box Wrenches | MSCDirect.com)

Would that help at all? I have worked in the door but never done the door jamb switch and I know how tight space is in there. If you do use one of those, tie a string to it first!
 

stamp11127

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From the manual for the door lock actuator (for a 2000 but should be the same). Portions of the procedure cover the door latch.

Remove the front door trim panel; refer to Section 501-05 .
Disconnect the interior door handle actuating rod.
Open the clip.
Disconnect the rod.

Position the front door watershield aside.
Remove the glass run channel bolt.
Position the glass run channel aside.

Remove the power door lock actuator rivet.

Disconnect the power door lock actuator electrical connector.
Release the wiring harness locator.
Disconnect the actuating rods.
Disconnect the lock cylinder actuating rod.
Open the locking clip.
Disconnect the exterior door handle actuating rod.

Remove the door latch bolts
Discard the bolts.

Disconnect the door ajar switch electrical connector.
Remove the front door latch.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.
 
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OP
T

threechorder

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They make small ratcheting wrenches that are completely flat (Box Wrenches | MSCDirect.com)

Would that help at all? I have worked in the door but never done the door jamb switch and I know how tight space is in there. If you do use one of those, tie a string to it first!

Perhaps that'd work. The trouble I run into is what little bit I actually can move the switch causes the end of the switch to run into the interior wall, thereby stopping further movement. I'll take a look at the link a but more and see if I can find a tool that looks like it might work. Thanks!
 
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threechorder

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From the manual for the door lock actuator (for a 2000 but should be the same). Portions of the procedure cover the door latch.

Remove the front door trim panel; refer to Section 501-05 .
Disconnect the interior door handle actuating rod.
Open the clip.
Disconnect the rod.

Position the front door watershield aside.
Remove the glass run channel bolt.
Position the glass run channel aside.

Remove the power door lock actuator rivet.

Disconnect the power door lock actuator electrical connector.
Release the wiring harness locator.
Disconnect the actuating rods.
Disconnect the lock cylinder actuating rod.
Open the locking clip.
Disconnect the exterior door handle actuating rod.

Remove the door latch bolts
Discard the bolts.

Disconnect the door ajar switch electrical connector.
Remove the front door latch.
To install, reverse the removal procedure.

That's quite the piece you found there. I'll definitely refer to this on my next attempt. Thanks!
 
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