Should it stay or should it go?

[ManUpOrShutUp]

That's the part alright. The problem lies with the installers. All the shops refuse to install aftermarket. Period. So I had no choice since the cost is mostly all labor. Shameful I know.

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The part I posted a link is the Ford part - at less than half the dealer's cost. Since you brought it up though, I have never heard of a shop (except for a dealership) rejecting an aftermarket part. I would have simply taken it somewhere else. That part markup is insane.

 

[Cooper]

The part I posted a link is the Ford part - at less than half the dealer's cost. Since you brought it up though, I have never heard of a shop (except for a dealership) rejecting an aftermarket part. I would have simply taken it somewhere else. That part markup is insane.

Find a shade tree mechanic, for they care not if its OEM or not... or knock it out yourself.

 

[1955moose]

I can't imagine a sheet metal aftermarket part being that far off on fit, that you can't massage it to fit in place. As far as coatings and rustproofing, rough the paint that's on it, and spray it with a high zinc paint to slow any rust. I'm with the others, your not restoring a 1930's Dusenberg, so as long as your guy or girl gets the new piece in and secure, I don't see the problem. Your throwing a lot of unnecessary money at a vehicle that's value won't be affected by a cheaper install.

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[kramerpage]

I picked up the support from the dealer 5L1Z16138a today. I had him look up the 4L1Z16138BA from the link above. He stated it is not the correct part. That part stops at 2005. I also go all new transmission cooling lines.

The body shop that is doing the work is about as country as you can get. 3 generations of this family have operated this small shop. Cash or check only.They have done several expeditions so they know what works and doesn't work.

The brake lines and break hoses, tie rod ends and lower ball joints are getting replaced today by a fella down the street who does work out of his garage. Cash only lol

I broke free the fan last night so I ordered a water pump, serp belt, tensioner and 3 idler pulleys. Im hoping to get it done by Monday June 3rd.


Lets see what Rockauto prices do when Trump increases tariffs to 25%...

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

I picked up the support from the dealer 5L1Z16138a today. I had him look up the 4L1Z16138BA from the link above. He stated it is not the correct part. That part stops at 2005

That's why I asked if it was the correct part. The part number you provided is available at Tasca for $844.56. That's insane also, but still $266 cheaper than your local dealer. And Tasca rarely has the best price in town. I just didn't spend any time looking, since it was just to satisfy my own curiosity.

Lets see what Rockauto prices do when Trump increases tariffs to 25%...

The same thing will happen with Rock Auto prices as will happen with your dealer's prices, since they are the same parts. Rock Auto isn't selling anything different than anyone else. In fact, they drop ship these parts from dealerships and part warehouses that supply dealers. You're just paying more for the same part.

And we already know what's going to happen because it's been happening for the last year. American manufacturers know that people that were willing to pay more fo rAmerican-made goods will still be willing to pay more and those that weren't willing, still aren't going to pay more even if the gap in price shrinks. Thus, if the price on a Chinese good goes up, the price on its American counterpart goes up as well. Trade wars are a no-win for the American consumer.

 

[kramerpage]

Yeah Tasca only saves me 25.93 over what I paid at the local dealer. 844.56 part 239.77 shipping.

I would rather look at it at the dealer for damage and have the option to refuse than have to box it up, get an return auth blah blah blah...LOL

The part I bought from Ford states "Proudly made in the USA" btw

 

[ManUpOrShutUp]

Yeah Tasca only saves me 25.93 over what I paid at the local dealer. 844.56 part 239.77 shipping.

I would rather look at it at the dealer for damage and have the option to refuse than have to box it up, get an return auth blah blah blah...LOL

The part I bought from Ford states "Proudly made in the USA" btw

Some of their parts are made in the USA. Others are made in China or Mexico. Most of their stuff is made overseas now. It depends on the part though.

 

[rjdelp7]

My 'new' Ford, chrome replacement bumper, was made in Taiwan. It has the oval Ford logo, and everything.

 

[SEPTIC PROFESSOR]

You cannot be serious to stick any money into a rust bucket. In Florida we find 2003 models, the best year ever built, rolling around rust free with ice cold A/C for under $4K. 2005 on up with the 3 valve engines are all junk. 2003 and 2004 5.4 engines are bulletproof.

 

[kramerpage]

Thats a great point. I will have 2800 into it when all repairs are made. What a great deal for me! Thanks for shinning the light on that. LOL

 

[brilis]

Thanks for the replies. I need to see if the fella installing the radiator support will let me work on it when he has the front clip off.

I ordered the radiator support which was $1291.38 plus tax at the dealer. There was a young man there that said wow that is too high price. LOL He lowered it to $1110.26 WITH tax.

I have appointment at the body shop May 27th at 10am . She gets a new set of Bloomers for $900.00.

Thats $2,010.26 verses the dealership price of $5.5K for the repair of the radiator support part of this.

Thats a $3489.74 savings to you and me Russ...

I had the radiator support done on my 04 EB. Used an after market support, cost me $1500 for labor and materials. Came out great. Had it done a few years ago. Still looks new. Also had all my brakes lines done, transmission lines. So much rust. My underside is horrible. I have 92K miles. Body and interior is perfect. Also had under the doors all done. Now I am trying to see what I can do about the very rusty frame.

 

[SEPTIC PROFESSOR]

You cannot be serious to stick any money into a rust bucket. In Florida we find 2003 models, the best year ever built, rolling around rust free with ice cold A/C for under $4K. 2005 on up with the 3 valve engines are all junk. 2003 and 2004 5.4 engines are bulletproof.

 

[Mad Oshea]

Give it a wiggle, and if it has play, Go for it. If it is with no play. Leave it alone.

 

[DASAGT]

I had a performance radiator built after the factory one failed, but I didn't change out the pump should I have?

 

[kramerpage]

Well you get what you pay for. Got the truck back. Paid 570 for hard brake lines fr and fl and rear from abs to coupling at back of drivers door. Fr lower ball joint and tie rod end. All 4 soft hose drops to calipers.

He didn't remove old lines. Ran lines all willie nillie. Found on bleeder screw rubber boot missing. On drop hose 10 mm mounting bolt loose. Hand tight.

He installed a compression coupler to the rear line and I insisted he replace w a double flare coupling. He agreed he would if I brought it back.

So I spent 3 hrs going through everything. Isolated new lines so they don't rub on anything. Placed in factory holders where I could and made isolation points where I couldn't.

I'm not happy w his work but I'm glad I didn't do it...

I have a set of transmission cooler lines I may put on myself. I ordered the plastic otc tool. The difficult part looks to be getting to the lines on the transmission itself since the heat shield is in the way.

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[TobyU]

Hard to win. If you are a perfectionist then you end up doing it yourself.
I am cheap. So I end up doing it myself.

I have found it is almost easier to just go all the way to the end of brake line and run new 5 or 6 foot piece and connect with unions and go to other end. You just measure and get the end piece not too long so you can z it or loop it to get length just right.
I have done double and bubble flares but pain in the ass.

I did trans lines on a 97 E super duty with V10 in it 2-3 years ago. Had to make my own. Pulled the old off and bent the new to match close enough.
Super cheap in parts.

 

[GAINMOB]

Hello all! I am having a new radiator core support installed on my 2006 and was wondering if I should replace the water pump since the front clip will be removed. It has 126,000 miles on the original. I'm thinking how much longer could she go? What say you? Thanks

I have a 2004... only owner...OEM until I broke it... other than that it's real easy to change and u don't need anything removed or out the easy to do it

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[GAINMOB]

Flip a coin! Just kidding. Its a crap shoot. Your at the mileage and age where you probably should. I've been around vehicles wrenching on them for close to 50 years now, and I've never figured why, but disrupting a sealed system like the cooling, shouldn't affect other parts like a thermostat or water pump, but it does. I've had a perfectly functional thermostat stop opening, just by changing out the coolant. Whether your changing the radiator, or a shop, it's cheaper and safer with the radiator and fan out already. Again, it's a judgement call, but at 13 years old, I'd change the upper, and lower hoses as well as the pump.

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Im trying to figure out why my climate control temp is 20 degrees higher than it actually is outside

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[kramerpage]

I cannot get the lower transmission line loose from the radiator. It's so rusted the tube and fitting must be full of rust. No fittings available so you have to replace radiator. Unbelievable...

I went ahead and replaced water pump tensioner belt and pulleys.

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[1955moose]

Gain Mob, my outside temperature reading on mine reads about 10 degrees higher than what it really is. Is that what your talking about, or do you leave your AC on all the time?

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