You can always test fit on junk used tires... $60 wasted on trying out a new size and endingup with illfitting fronts is a LOT more palatable than $600
Show your Lifted 3rd Gens
- Thread starter 13crushrubi
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You can always test fit on junk used tires... $60 wasted on trying out a new size and endingup with illfitting fronts is a LOT more palatable than $600
someguynamedmatt
Member
Grrrr....
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someguynamedmatt
Member
I couldn't figure out how to edit my above post, so here..... Sorry for double post.
Did you have to use any additional suspension parts to make everything fit or extend your brake lines at all? Some reviews said they had to add some suspension parts for it to be aligned properly and extend the brake lines. Just wanted to see what you had to do, if anything
Am I crazy or do all the lifts (or at least most) look like the front is riding higher than the rear? The space between the fender and the top of the tire seems to be larger on the front than the rear. I am running into this issue with my 07 with quick lifts.
Also interested if anyone had suspension problems after a quick lift install?
Also interested if anyone had suspension problems after a quick lift install?
JZHOUSE
Active Member
Hey there. As long as you lift the rear under 4", so 3.5" or shorter you don't need longer brake lines, but they will be stretched to the max when on extreme off road.
JZHOUSE
Active Member
Hi,
First off the front fender is higher off the tire than the rear.
Second..., Are you talking about Rancho Quick Lifts?
If you are, then yes, the rear does not have the same height as the front and the guys I know that have them also did a small spacer on top of the Rancho Quick Lifts.
Here is an 07 with 35x12.5x17 tires Nitto Trail Grapplers with a 4" in the front and a 3.5" lift in the rear. I can go higher in the rear but I need longer brake lines first.
Rig Specs at:
www.1LifeLive.com on the Rig Specs page.
Rig Specs at www.1LifeLive.com on the Rig Specs page.
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Thanks for that info JZHouse and yes they are Rancho Quick Lifts I was talking about in my case.
I had thought about putting a spacer in the rear to compensate but wasn't sure whether that was a preferred method of adjustment. I see what you are saying regarding the fender just being higher on the front and that might be what I am hung up on.
I read on your site about the upper control arms you installed to adjust the geometry and stop binding. Do you know when those types of measures are needed? i don't have the lift or tire size you are dealing with, mine are only 32.6" and just the standard quicklift lift wich I don't believe is over 1.5"
I had thought about putting a spacer in the rear to compensate but wasn't sure whether that was a preferred method of adjustment. I see what you are saying regarding the fender just being higher on the front and that might be what I am hung up on.
I read on your site about the upper control arms you installed to adjust the geometry and stop binding. Do you know when those types of measures are needed? i don't have the lift or tire size you are dealing with, mine are only 32.6" and just the standard quicklift lift wich I don't believe is over 1.5"
JZHOUSE
Active Member
Hi again. You are welcome. I only had to install the Icon upper control arm and Icon Coilovers when I was to the max with Rancho Quicklifts and a 2.5" spacer on top of those front Quicklifts which raised it about 5" which was just too tall.
So I doubt you will need to worry. I would say if you want a well done 4"+ lift then you would need that setup with the Icons stuff.
You would know too if it was binding because you would feel and hear the upper control arms smack the coil spring. So I am sure you are fine.
For the rear, I like the polyurethane spacers because I can cut them to the size I want if needed.
If I recall correctly I have a 2.5" spacer and a 1.25 spacer on top of that for my rear coilovers which are still the Rancho quicklifts.
I am not sure what you have up front so I can't recommend correctly but my guess is you might need a small spacer on the rear around 1.5" but again, not sure unless all you have is the Quicklift Rancho up front. If so, you might only need UNDER 1.5", so you would have to buy a 2.5" and slice it in half. Hope that helps. ;-)
JZHOUSE
Active Member
Nice. It would look great, just don't stick the 3" on top of a Rancho Quicklift as it will be to tall and bind.
Otherwise you should be fine. Just do a Wheel Alignment afterward.
Yeah just the Rancho quick lifts on front and back. I believe its only .75" low in the back to get it level with the front but honestly seeing everyone else's setup with a similar squat, I don't feel so bad. It might be more of a case that the fender arch is higher in the front.
JZHOUSE
Active Member
Looks good. It also looks like your running boards are level too which means it's all level and it's just your fender height messing with your eyes.
Check and park on a level street and check it with a leveler. Take the leveler and then check the rig in a few places. I bet it's all level.
haha, i bet you're right. I took a board out there after you mentioned it earlier and measured the height of the arc of the fender well and it was much higher in the front than the rear. Guess that's good for the front end travel.
My real issue I have been troubleshooting is in the front end under certain bumps and rough gravel road I will feel a clunk in the pedals and steering column. I replaced upper/lower control arms with Moog replacements, the rancho quicklifts and sway bar bushings/linkage. Still does it and will ruin the sway bar linkage joints.. went through like 3-4. Tried both moog, dorman and maybe a motocraft too. Some were metal on metal with a grease fittings while others had a plastic insert but all failed. Makes me think there is something weird with the geometry or a non standard swaybar was installed. Only thing I know is different is it has the off road package with the skid plate and tubular running bars but I don't think that has anything to do with it.
My real issue I have been troubleshooting is in the front end under certain bumps and rough gravel road I will feel a clunk in the pedals and steering column. I replaced upper/lower control arms with Moog replacements, the rancho quicklifts and sway bar bushings/linkage. Still does it and will ruin the sway bar linkage joints.. went through like 3-4. Tried both moog, dorman and maybe a motocraft too. Some were metal on metal with a grease fittings while others had a plastic insert but all failed. Makes me think there is something weird with the geometry or a non standard swaybar was installed. Only thing I know is different is it has the off road package with the skid plate and tubular running bars but I don't think that has anything to do with it.
JZHOUSE
Active Member
Hmmm..... I have not had that issue. Of course I don't run a front sway bar. It's not really needed unless you tow.
And you got a wheel alignment after the Rancho Lifts? Not sure if that would help but make sure you do with any lift.
And all the ball joints were replaced?
Did you check the upper Control arm to see if it's hitting the spring on large bumps? Marks. Wear? Etc.
It seems to be some play somewhere or the upper arm hitting which might occur only on huge bumps. The Ranch Spring is very fat.
I might get he alignment done again, I honestly forget if it was aligned after the ranchos were installed (it had rancho quick lifts already on it when i bought it but they were shot)
Yeah all the ball joints were replaced except the connection between the steering rack and the spindles. I just bought new upper/lower control arms as pressing new ball joints were not much cheaper from what I understood.
It did have some of the paint knocked off the dront coil springs. I thought maybe it came that way or installer nicked it. Not sure what would cause that as everything is basically new.. maybe I need to adjust them tighter or something.
Yeah all the ball joints were replaced except the connection between the steering rack and the spindles. I just bought new upper/lower control arms as pressing new ball joints were not much cheaper from what I understood.
It did have some of the paint knocked off the dront coil springs. I thought maybe it came that way or installer nicked it. Not sure what would cause that as everything is basically new.. maybe I need to adjust them tighter or something.
JZHOUSE
Active Member
Ok so it came with the Ranchos and did you replace those, (as you said they were shot)..., so I am guessing you replaced those and they are new.
What level did you set the front Ranchos on? They should be set on the stiffest level which I believe is 9. So just make sure both knobs are set to the stiffest level otherwise they will be too soft and top out on large bumps as you have a heavy rig, which the topping out part is the binding the upper control arm to the spring which would clunk and/or maxing out the upper control arm ball joint which only moves so much, which is why I bought the Icon upper control arms with a uni-ball joint which moves more.
And of course as long as you don't tow anything you can remove the front sway bar which would help you better off road if you think that is making clunking noises or has play in it. Just know that the steering is quicker and tad less stable and you will be able to turn tighter. Just be aware of that. I have had mine off for 2 years and drive canyons with no issues on the highway.
You can always jack up a side of the front end and see if the upper control arm hits the spring when fully jacked up high. If it does or almost does then maybe you found your issue.
Solar
Member
Here is my big girl !!!
Before
After
I'm at 90k on my 2013 and I'm wanting to lift it, so can I do this with all new coilovers instead of spacers ? Which manufacturer makes these ? I'm not trying to do 35' just 33s. Last thing how would I know if my 13 limited has the locker trac thing I don't off road just curious. Thanks
You gave me some options to try, thanks!
You are correct, I bought it with quicklifts on it but they were shot so I replaced them with another set of quicklifts. Going to check what setting the struts are on and test the travel to see if it clips the spring. Hopefully I didn't mess up any of the ball joints by allowing the excessive travel.
BTW great info on your website. Super write up on the 4x4 drive-train in these fords!
You are correct, I bought it with quicklifts on it but they were shot so I replaced them with another set of quicklifts. Going to check what setting the struts are on and test the travel to see if it clips the spring. Hopefully I didn't mess up any of the ball joints by allowing the excessive travel.
BTW great info on your website. Super write up on the 4x4 drive-train in these fords!
Nice. It would look great, just don't stick the 3" on top of a Rancho Quicklift as it will be to tall and bind.
Otherwise you should be fine. Just do a Wheel Alignment afterward.
I was told the Rancho quick lift would not work on the 15+. Is that in accurate?
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