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Jason_Darius
Member
Earlier I did this. It dropped to about 10.5 during crank from 12.5.
Slow grind crank, limp mode...
- Thread starter Jason_Darius
- Start date
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Eric Mowrer
Well-Known Member
Could be a bad contact in the solenoid or a bad section of winding in the motor. You might get away with just replacing the solenoid.
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Eric Mowrer
Well-Known Member
Looks like it’s only sold as a unit.
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Jason_Darius
Member
Update. I thought I would try to bypass the Starter Relay by running a jump wire in the relay port to see if it would start there, and it did. Everytime I jumped it from the relay port, via jump wire, it would start right up. Then when I would re-insert the Starter Relay and try to turn the key to start it, nothing but more painful grinding with no start. I switched the relay with another identical one, and nothing. Ignition switch? What should I check next?
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Jason_Darius
Member
Update 2:
Because the ignition switch was so cheap I went ahead and swapped it out. However, no start. I was getting 12.7 volts at the switch too.
Ran more tests. Checked the ignition terminal on the starter solenoid (the small one). When I tried to crank, I was only getting 5 volts there. What's strange is that I am getting 12 volts at the starter relay post 85 with the key turned in the start position - this should trigger the relay correct (30/87 posts)? As I've said before, I removed the starter relay and I jumped the line of 30/87 to start the car - it starts easy. I am getting 12.7 volts from the main power terminal on the starter solenoid to the starter relay (I believe post 87 or 30).
I'm also getting power at the ignition switch at 12.7.
My guess is something with the fuse box connection to the starter relay is causing such a drop. Why would I get 12 volts on post 85 on the starter relay, 12.7 on the post 30 and then once I put the starter relay in the slot I then get 5 volts on the starter solenoid ignition terminal? Oh and yes, I tried different relays (and tested individually).
Because the ignition switch was so cheap I went ahead and swapped it out. However, no start. I was getting 12.7 volts at the switch too.
Ran more tests. Checked the ignition terminal on the starter solenoid (the small one). When I tried to crank, I was only getting 5 volts there. What's strange is that I am getting 12 volts at the starter relay post 85 with the key turned in the start position - this should trigger the relay correct (30/87 posts)? As I've said before, I removed the starter relay and I jumped the line of 30/87 to start the car - it starts easy. I am getting 12.7 volts from the main power terminal on the starter solenoid to the starter relay (I believe post 87 or 30).
I'm also getting power at the ignition switch at 12.7.
My guess is something with the fuse box connection to the starter relay is causing such a drop. Why would I get 12 volts on post 85 on the starter relay, 12.7 on the post 30 and then once I put the starter relay in the slot I then get 5 volts on the starter solenoid ignition terminal? Oh and yes, I tried different relays (and tested individually).
stamp11127
Full Access Members
The relays are normally wired so that 86/85 are the control portion of the relay while 30-87-87a are on the load(high current) side. 30 is usually the input.
Control input is usually 86 while the output is 85. Check the voltage on 86 to ground while trying to start with the relay removed. If it is still 5v then you have resistance between the ignition switch and 86. If you have 12+ volts there then the problem is between 85 and ground.
Control input is usually 86 while the output is 85. Check the voltage on 86 to ground while trying to start with the relay removed. If it is still 5v then you have resistance between the ignition switch and 86. If you have 12+ volts there then the problem is between 85 and ground.
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Jason_Darius
Member
Thanks stamp. I'll investigate those areas and let you know what I turn up.
762mm
Full Access Members
If I remember correctly from having done a starter on my Explorer, the control wire at the starter solenoid is 5V and the other (large) wire for the motor is 12V.
I'd say the solenoid or starter motor is probably bad. You can take it out and bring it to a place which rebuilds them for a test. On my Explorer, the wiring to the starter motor corroded through and it would not spin the motor with enough force. It was related to age (corrosion on internal starter wiring) and not to mechanical wear. Bad wiring can do some weird and intermittent things that are very hard to diagnose.
In either case, I put a new starter in there and it started like it just came off the assembly line. Good luck!
I'd say the solenoid or starter motor is probably bad. You can take it out and bring it to a place which rebuilds them for a test. On my Explorer, the wiring to the starter motor corroded through and it would not spin the motor with enough force. It was related to age (corrosion on internal starter wiring) and not to mechanical wear. Bad wiring can do some weird and intermittent things that are very hard to diagnose.
In either case, I put a new starter in there and it started like it just came off the assembly line. Good luck!
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Jason_Darius
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So I thought I would run through the fuse box inside the car one more time. Probed every fuse. Then on the radio fuse I wasn’t getting any light. So I replace this five amp fuse with another one. I also checked where it connected and I was not getting 12 V. Instead I was getting .23 V. I also made sure every connector around the fuse box was tight and snug (as I did with each fuse). Then when I tried to crank the car it started right up. I’ve tried it many other times since and it starts up every time. What the hell?
Not sure what this means. I did check the accessory relay and it was getting 12 V. Is the radio fuse supposed to be getting .23 V? That doesn’t sound right to me.
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Not sure what this means. I did check the accessory relay and it was getting 12 V. Is the radio fuse supposed to be getting .23 V? That doesn’t sound right to me.
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stamp11127
Full Access Members
Welcome to intermittent electrical issues.
On the 2007 I worked on a few years ago there are 48 connections on the control circuit that will inhibit starting. Most of them are safety related. If you plan on hunting it down you will need patience. I'm going to assume the 2008 is as bad as the 2007.
When you checked the fuses did you have the key in "run"?
If the radio works it is getting at least 12 volts.
The only components that should have 5 volts are the sensors and it is referred to as "Vref".
On the 2007 I worked on a few years ago there are 48 connections on the control circuit that will inhibit starting. Most of them are safety related. If you plan on hunting it down you will need patience. I'm going to assume the 2008 is as bad as the 2007.
When you checked the fuses did you have the key in "run"?
If the radio works it is getting at least 12 volts.
The only components that should have 5 volts are the sensors and it is referred to as "Vref".
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