Swollen Lug Nuts

[ThwopKing]

Throw all the stock lugnuts away! Just get a set of solid metal ones off Amazon for under 50 bucks.

 

[trjc3rd]

I had a similar problem with my lug nuts swelling as well. When they become swollen like that they’re a pain to remove. Normally they’re 21mm, but as they swell they’ll gain 1-2mm. An impact wrench works the majority of the time but not every time. Plan on going through a few sockets because since they’re swollen the nut and socket get stuck together. It’s a pain to separate them to say the least.
On the nuts that the impact can’t get off I suggest using the old fashioned socket/breaker bar method. If that still doesn’t work go with a X frame lug nut tool.
Once you finally get them all off, get yourself a good set of lug nuts to replace the ones you removed. I bought some Gorilla lugs. They’re a bit more expensive but you won’t have the same problem in the future. And yes, 150 ft.lbs. is what the torque spec is. Seems like a lot but that’s what Mr. Ford says it should be. Good luck.

 

[Randal]

OCD engineer Alert…
Mine are not as bad as some above. Believe that impact wrenches do the swelling. Also if they don’t use a deep socket, the nut surface will get torn up worse.
So far - I hammered on (w/ piece of 2x4 to buffer blows) a 13/16” (20.6 mm) old-time cross type lug tool that had deep sockets and used a cheater pipe. So far, 10 of 12 attempts worked; two I can’t hammer the socket part on. (I messed them up worse. I’ll try my Dremel to take strained metal off the lug surface. And go to tire place as last resort.)
NeverSieze or lube on threads- I understand that this will lessen the thread friction … and increase the force on the wheel to nut area with the same torque. However, I see that wheel to nut area galling, and it doesn’t look right… maybe it’s from the impacts though. I want to put something in that contact area to stop or minimize the galling.
Question… Anyone knows of something (corrosion inhibitor?) to use their and not change friction too much?

 

[Moeman]

Couple of other suggestions to avoid this happening again.

#1 Purchase a container of anti-seize and brush a generous amount on the lugs before installing your new lug nuts. Anti-Seize

#2 When you purchase replacement lug nuts, buy the 1 piece units. The stock Ford (and most other OEMS) are 2 piece. The chrome or plated outer shell is not very strong and distorts easily when the monkeys at the tire shop or dealership hammer them with an impact for 10 seconds.

#3 When returning from the tire shop or dealership where wheels / tires have been removed, check the lugs for proper torque and see if any of the lugs were damaged. You can ask them to properly torque each wheel when reinstalling and not hammer the crap out of them with an impact, but it is doubtful that will happen, all these guys work on flat rate.

#4 Buy a lug nut breaker bar kit with the correct size socket and keep in each of your vehicles. Lug Nut Breaker Bar

#5 It is off topic for this thread but I also keep a tire repair kit and 12V air compressor in each of our vehicles.

Don't ever lubricate lug nuts. The torque spec is created considering the frictional characteristics of lug nut threads and the surface interface to wheel mating surface. I was a mfg engineer at Ford for 18years and have run a lot of torque studies in my time. Reduced friction = more clamp load = yielding the bolt. Way before my professional career started, I learned this the hard way. Dad used to anti-seize his lug nuts on his work trucks. I ended up in a ditch once when they all snapped and I lost a back wheel. Keep those fasteners dry. The root cause of this problem is crappy Ford lug nut design, not joint lubrication.

 

[Fastcar]

Don't ever lubricate lug nuts. The torque spec is created considering the frictional characteristics of lug nut threads and the surface interface to wheel mating surface. I was a mfg engineer at Ford for 18years and have run a lot of torque studies in my time. Reduced friction = more clamp load = yielding the bolt. Way before my professional career started, I learned this the hard way. Dad used to anti-seize his lug nuts on his work trucks. I ended up in a ditch once when they all snapped and I lost a back wheel. Keep those fasteners dry. The root cause of this problem is crappy Ford lug nut design, not joint lubrication.

This is as they say is "nuts on"!!! As others have said get a set from Amazon. Never ever lube the lug nuts on your car or truck. Of course your own nuts, lube them all you want.

 

[Moeman]

OCD engineer Alert…
Mine are not as bad as some above. Believe that impact wrenches do the swelling. Also if they don’t use a deep socket, the nut surface will get torn up worse.
So far - I hammered on (w/ piece of 2x4 to buffer blows) a 13/16” (20.6 mm) old-time cross type lug tool that had deep sockets and used a cheater pipe. So far, 10 of 12 attempts worked; two I can’t hammer the socket part on. (I messed them up worse. I’ll try my Dremel to take strained metal off the lug surface. And go to tire place as last resort.)
NeverSieze or lube on threads- I understand that this will lessen the thread friction … and increase the force on the wheel to nut area with the same torque. However, I see that wheel to nut area galling, and it doesn’t look right… maybe it’s from the impacts though. I want to put something in that contact area to stop or minimize the galling.
Question… Anyone knows of something (corrosion inhibitor?) to use their and not change friction too much?

Sometimes in life you just choose to get over things that bother you, and that's coming from another OCD engineer. It doesn't look great, but probably not actually causing any problem aside from your emotional distress.