The dreaded PATS system on a 2004 Exp

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Whalin

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I guess I’ll start this off with a long story short kinda intro.
I bought my 2004 Expedition about 5 weeks ago from a good friend of my wife’s. It was her fathers, Great man as he now rest in peace loving the good ol’ life within the afterlife. But boy howdy, that man did not take care of his vehicles. At multiple times when trying to clean it when I first got it, had to literally take mallet and chisel(s) yes plural because one shattered, Haha…To only the lord knows what monstrosity of growth was in those carpets. That being said, the truck was in bad shape. Not to the short part of the story in the long head scratching wonder that is now my brain.
Few days back my truck wouldn’t start. Did all the troubleshooting. The battery was good I just purchased that a week ago, all relays and fuses were good and then I noticed some green plastic pieces on the driver side floorboard, those kinda “Hey I’ve seen things that look like that before” pieces of plastic. Well they were broken pieces of the wire harness connector that just so happened to be inside the steering column that’s for the PATS system immobilizer. The4 conductor harness under the module around the ignition. So I grabbed a couple 2 conductor speaker wire from an older Bluetooth garage speaker, used the plastic connectors from both as well the wire leads from them and tied those into the 4 conductor connector for the immobilizer module. Truck still wouldn’t start. I checked the fuse box and fuse 28 (the PCM relay coil and SecuriLock transceiver) was blown. I replaced it and then turned the ignition over. The truck started, Angels sang and Bobs your uncle.
But then today I went to start the truck and nothing. Well nothing accept the typical door open beeps and dash lights coming on… BUT now the Anti theft light on the dashboard near the windshield was flashing extremely flash. The battery is still good, only week old. The fuse is NOT blown, starter is working fine. I checked the relay as well as jumped the terminals in the fuse box and it cracks that way.
So… Is my key going bad possibly. Or the PATS module itself maybe?
I tried resetting the theft system with the key in the door trick then with the ignition and still, nothing?
Other then taking it to a dealer to check the PCM module itself or pay hundred to have new keys made, I figured I’d test the waters here and see if anyone knows what’s up, might have suggestions to try I may not have.
Any input is helpful, thanks all
 

Hamfisted

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Do you have a laptop and the ForScan app ? You can use ForScan to see if the computer "sees" the key in the ignition. Or to reprogram new keys if need be. Or to read any security codes it might be holding.

ForScan Download Page


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Whalin

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I do have a laptop but not the app. I’ll look into that thanks. I came across a different issue currently. There’s a single relay under the dash board on the drivers side right above the hood release and brake releases levers. No fuse box just a solo relay and I have no clue what it is for. It started clicking like crazy when I was trying to troubleshoot the PATS issue. I tried searching the model of it and came up empty handed to what it is for
 

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Hamfisted

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The one in your hand is the flasher relay ( turn signals / emergency flashers ). The other one is the parking brake release relay.


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Whalin

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I need this damn Pats system gone. I bought the truck so I can go back to work full time and I’ve owed it maybe 2 months and still I’m not back to work. I’m not investing hundreds Of dollars I don’t have to have someone plug something into it to tell me I need to spend thousands more to fix it. It’s 20 years old, 380,000 miles on it and if a thief wants to steal it, let them. Hell that’s why I have insurance. I’m locked out of using my own truck just so companies can make money on my heart ache cause some stupid wiring transmitter issue. Vehicles ran before without all this computer crap. I just need the anti theft system, well in This case the anti owner can’t use his own truck system, removed so I can use the truck. So yeah, if anyone can point me in the correct direction on how to remove the system all together that’ll be great. The internet and the “bypass” videos that are out there by the millions have not helped. Bypassing a system shouldn’t involve an original key with the transmitter that I can Jimmyrig into the base of the ignition somewhere to still read the signal always, so you can use a key that isn’t chipped. ???? So because I don’t have thousands of dollars to buy new vehicles, I buy an older one thinking I can save money. Here I am 2 months into owning this truck and I’ve yet to be able to use it. Can’t really get my wife to her doctor appointments or myself to the grocery store. Hell I can’t even get back to working full time cause my wife’s health is getting worse, in order to make the extra money to pay bills let alone invest into fixing a stupid wiring problem that won’t let my truck start. So yeah any help in removing the system so I can use the truck I purchased would be great. I don’t know what else to do
 

Yupster Dog

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I need this damn Pats system gone.
Vehicle will not run without it.
Like @Hamfisted said FORScan will be the DIY way forward. The software is free but You do have to buy a connector to go from laptop to vehicles port.
There is a chip in the key, otherwise why would you need it.
When you can't find something go back to the start and try again to find what you missed.
Start with making sure you have proper power getting where it should. Do a VOLTAGE DROP TEST on your battery connections and cables. Positive and negative sides. without proper power it can make everything looked messed up. This will help you move forward with your diagnosis and make sure you are not running in circles.
 

Johnathan M

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I agree with gettting FORScan. The cable to go from your laptop to the OBD port I s only 40 or $50 online. You will find so many more uses for it down the road then just troubleshooting your Pats system
 
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