transmission temp got to 300 degrees, is that hot enough to where it needs a rebuild/replace transmission?

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igokom10

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Short story: after having my valve body replaced ( along with fresh fluid, filter, tcm reprogram.) less than 100 miles later, was driving on highway and noticed it wouldn’t go into 10th gear after multiple tries, few Seconds after “powertrain malfunction” displayed. I pulled up transmission temp on the display it was around 280, by the time I pulled over safely it was 300 degrees. Was at 300 for a few seconds. Towed it back to the shop where I got the valve body replaced, serviced less than 100 miles go. Is 300 degrees, although for a brief second enough to cause enough damage to warrant a rebuild/replacement?

Long story: bought the car 2 months ago, with 84k, currently has 86k. Have the heavy duty tow package. Noticed some weird shifting from 3-5, sometimes would take 1-2 tries to get into 10 Gear, clunk/slight delay from P to D, Twice under very light throttle, tranny went from 3rd straight to 8th, rmps went super high, and car wouldn’t move. Pulled over, let it downshift to 1st and drove again no issues (besides what I listed above.) over all the shifts seemed bit clunky about 50% of the time, the other 50%, drove decent. Didn’t throw and codes. Around town driving temp was 215-220, I would hear the fan constantly trying to cool the unit down. so I finally decided to take it in to a transmission shop.
upon telling the tech my symptoms, he said 9/10 times it’s a valve body, didn’t even open it up, just said that’s what he would do. Took his word, he couldn’t source one (back ordered till April/may) I found one at a dealership in stock. Made the drive 2 hours away, picked it up and dropped it off for him to install. Day later he calls says he swapped over the new valve body but the 3-5 clunk is still there…said the oil was in great condition with no burning or shavings. He recommended I take it to a dealership see if they could diagnose that 3-5 clunk. I picked the car up and drove it home. It felt much better, shifting was more crisp and noticed it went into 10th gear all the time and occasional the 3-5 clunk was there but much much better than before. I was ok leaving it as is if dealership couldn’t diagnose it.
Day later I’m on the highway and notice it’s having a hard time going into 10. After a few attempts (3-4) the “power train malfunction” light came on, by the time I pulled over safely the transmission temp was 300, with ATF leaking from the bottom.
Towed it to his shop, thinking it was something they had done.
He calls me the next morning, the leaking oil was from the vent, and it came out due to the transmission heating up. He said he dropped the pan and again no shavings or any sign of anything catastrophic. Said the put fluid back in, drove it and it drove like before but still needs to figure out why it over heated.
He is dropping the transmission Tommorow and we’ll see what the inside looks like. I’m guessing if the temp got that high, a rebuild/swap is inevitable. Also from my research the CDF drum is a common issue. If that is fairly Would that cause the transmission to over heat?
Could they have made a mistake in installing the valve body that made it over heat?
I found a tranny from a 2018 f150 3.5 (floor/dial shift) few hours away with less than 20k miles for a good price ($2500)
Would that be a direct swap? From 2018 f150 to 2018 expedition.
I’m almost inclined and swapping out the whole thing, expecially because now it was overheated.

If you’ve read this far, you’re a champ and I’ll buy you a beer if you respond.
Thanks !!
 

SyndicateZ

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just a 2018 and tranny issues. I say get it to where it drives and will pass a trade in inspection and trade it in
 

SyndicateZ

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I just got the damn thing! Love everything about it, maybe I’m just wishful thinking it can get better. They can’t all be crap, can they?.
Haha i was kidding. The best you can do to get this resolved is dropping it off to the dealer and hope they fix/figure out the issue and fix. Is it under a extended warranty at all?
 

Soliyou

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Most probably it is the CDF drum. It seems they fail around that mileage. A complete transmission from Ford is $3500.

Unfortunately, even the new ones will have the same fate eventually since they didn’t change the design. The aftermarket has no solution either.
 
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igokom10

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Most probably it is the CDF drum. It seems they fail around that mileage. A complete transmission from Ford is $3500.

Unfortunately, even the new ones will have the same fate eventually since they didn’t change the design. The aftermarket has no solution either.
Would a bad cdf drum cause it to over heat?
Ford transmission are on back order till mid-end of April unfortunately. The used one I have has had the CDF drum already changed by the dealer at around 10k miles.
Any idea on cost to change out the CDF drum?
No warranty here. All out of pocket
 
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igokom10

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Haha i was kidding. The best you can do to get this resolved is dropping it off to the dealer and hope they fix/figure out the issue and fix. Is it under a extended warranty at all?
No warranty
I had the option to buy one from the dealership I got it from but i passed up. Said I have 30 days if I change my mind, didn’t think I needed it. I’m not at 50 days from day of purchase. Just my luck.
 

BMW2FORD

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Would a bad cdf drum cause it to over heat?
Ford transmission are on back order till mid-end of April unfortunately. The used one I have has had the CDF drum already changed by the dealer at around 10k miles.
Any idea on cost to change out the CDF drum?
No warranty here. All out of pocket
When the C D F bushing moved in my 2018 the temps did start to go up. It didn’t reach as high as yours and got to about 230. It also made a the noise you hear when hydraulics are not bled since when that bushing slips fluid pressure is not going to the correct C D F clutches. I’d have to look in the repair manual but possibly the fluid pressure could be checked to each of those clutches to see if it shows a pressure problem that would lead to that area. If you do have to change the C D F drum, it’s way in there so everything else has to be removed so a good time to see if heat damaged anything else. I’ll try to look at the repair manual and circle back.
 

BMW2FORD

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I checked up and down the Service manual and it has no talk about external pressure tests like older transmissions. Basically how it functions and what clutches are used per gear. Quick question - did the outside shop for sure program the new valve body to the transmission control unit? A sticker comes with the new valve body with the solenoid and sensor strategy that tells the TCM how to work with it. It causes very weird problems if not programmed correctly. After the valve body is installed, the new sticker is placed on the side of the trans on top of the old one.
 
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igokom10

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I checked up and down the Service manual and it has no talk about external pressure tests like older transmissions. Basically how it functions and what clutches are used per gear. Quick question - did the outside shop for sure program the new valve body to the transmission control unit? A sticker comes with the new valve body with the solenoid and sensor strategy that tells the TCM how to work with it. It causes very weird problems if not programmed correctly. After the valve body is installed, the new sticker is placed on the side of the trans on top of the old one.
Appreciate the thorough research.
As far as the shop programming the new valve body, I am just taking his word for it. They are highly recommended (30 years in business.) 4.9 google rating (100 reviews), and he stated he has done multiple valve bodies in 10r80s.
Also after picking it up it drove much much better than before, for about 100 miles…

But I heard back from him today. They got the tranny out and found some damage. CDF drum bushings, damaged. Damaged piston and a damaged clutch plate. So it’s getting a rebuild. All in it should be under $4k.. and a warranty. I’m really hoping this fix it, I just want the damn thing to work.

First thing I’m doing when getting it back is changing the thermostat to a 160 degree and a transmission tune. Hopefully it will extend the trannys life.
 

TobyU

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I just got the damn thing! Love everything about it, maybe I’m just wishful thinking it can get better. They can’t all be crap, can they?.
This is why I don't buy newer vehicles or ones with 10 speed transmissions. I don't even want a 6-speed transmission!
Regardless, you were having problems before and obviously they didn't diagnose or fix the problem correctly or even find exactly what the problem was which is typical today because so many people don't really understand these things completely like some components were understood in the past.
So they basically just replaced Parts hoping for the best and keep going until they get it right.
In this case, you very well may need the entire transmission removed and gone through and rebuilt or swapped out with a remanufactured unit to get you working if nobody knows exactly what the cause of that problem is and can address it easier.
I am kind of a fan of buying used or a salvage yard transmissions myself and swapping them because I'm a cheapskate and that's always the most cost-effective way for me to solve these problems except for that one time that I made friends with somebody at a transmission shop and pulled mine out and took it to them and picked it up two days later for a mere $250 or 275.
 

BlackBetty

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No warranty
I had the option to buy one from the dealership I got it from but i passed up. Said I have 30 days if I change my mind, didn’t think I needed it. I’m not at 50 days from day of purchase. Just my luck.
That sucks. Good luck with this issue. What about the Lemon Law? Would that help you I. This situation?
 

BIGRED03

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There may be a Ford service bulletin out if it a common issue? My 2018 would act up randomly before it got to operating temperature. I would not reuse fluid that got to that temp in the Army. I learned at 275 degrees the fluid was breaking down and was confirmed at the OAL or oil analysis lab.

Auto warranty is the one single exception to not buying extended warranties on other items.
 

NavigatorPro

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I just found this post on Google. For coolinf system problems here is what you need to do to resolve.

#1. Check the active grille shutters. I disconnect mine for the warm months over 60 degrees. Must be disconnected while the vehicle is on, AC on which will open the shutters wide open. Do not disconnect with shutters closed.

#2. MAIN part: The thermostat should be replaced with most current Motorcraft thermostat. The thermostat was redesigned as the old thermostat was sticking closed. Get it off of Rockauto. If you have old thermostat which came with truck replace it now!

#3. Secondary part: a) spark plugs/coils...only use Motorcraft most current b) engine cover...remove and set aside c) airfilter...only use Motorcraft d) radiator reservoir pressure cap.

From reading this thread either your active grille shutters are stuck closed OR its the thermostat. Im guessing its the thermostat. Ford quietly redesigned it in 2022. It will solve all cooling problems.
 

MattG

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I just found this post on Google. For coolinf system problems here is what you need to do to resolve.

#1. Check the active grille shutters. I disconnect mine for the warm months over 60 degrees. Must be disconnected while the vehicle is on, AC on which will open the shutters wide open. Do not disconnect with shutters closed.

#2. MAIN part: The thermostat should be replaced with most current Motorcraft thermostat. The thermostat was redesigned as the old thermostat was sticking closed. Get it off of Rockauto. If you have old thermostat which came with truck replace it now!

#3. Secondary part: a) spark plugs/coils...only use Motorcraft most current b) engine cover...remove and set aside c) airfilter...only use Motorcraft d) radiator reservoir pressure cap.

From reading this thread either your active grille shutters are stuck closed OR its the thermostat. Im guessing its the thermostat. Ford quietly redesigned it in 2022. It will solve all cooling problems.
I just went through an issue with the active grille shutters on my '22, it failed and threw a power code, having me believe it was the alternator when turned out to be the grille shutter solenoid. On the same circuit.
 

NavigatorPro

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I just went through an issue with the active grille shutters on my '22, it failed and threw a power code, having me believe it was the alternator when turned out to be the grille shutter solenoid. On the same circuit.
The shutters save 0.5% in gas and only serve to #1) help the car warmup in winter and #2) save 0.5% gas. I would disconnect them while they are wide open.
 

NavigatorPro

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The other thing in this post I wanted to point out is it was a mistake to take it to a transmission shop. Its best to go to a dealership and pay the diagnostic fee for a real diagnosis. The 10 speed is still fairly new and its best for the dealership service department to diagnose problems with it.

Its also best if the dealership does the work because they warranty it unlike independent shops.
 

Brons2

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The other thing in this post I wanted to point out is it was a mistake to take it to a transmission shop. Its best to go to a dealership and pay the diagnostic fee for a real diagnosis. The 10 speed is still fairly new and its best for the dealership service department to diagnose problems with it.

Its also best if the dealership does the work because they warranty it unlike independent shops.
The dealer's fix for most everything transmission related is throwing a reman at it. Yeah a Ford reman is going to have a 2/24 warranty but what about after that?

Nothing wrong with a good indy shop. You're more likely to get updated aftermarket parts that resolve OEM issues going through an indy shop. Besides, these 10 speeds have been out since 2017. They are not that new anymore.
 

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