Turbo Boost causes CB buzz

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Yupster Dog

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A little update to my CB noise investigation. I found the radio "noise blanker" settings were suppressing some of the noise. Once disabled, the noise appeared to be plain engine ignition noise. A RPM related buzz. I pulled all the plug coils, scrapped corrosion and made sure all the coils and connectors were seated and snugged correctly. It helped a lot. But there is still a bit of a RPM related buzz. It doesn't appear to be coming over the 12V. I ran the radio on a separate battery with the engine on and off...no difference. Next up is to check the antenna grounding and coax connections.

Have you tried to put a in-line noise reduction ground loop on the power wire to the CB?
that should take care of your problem, or at least reduce it significantly.
Can't believe no one has mentioned this yet.
 

JamaicaJoe

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Have you tried to put a in-line noise reduction ground loop on the power wire to the CB?
that should take care of your problem, or at least reduce it significantly.
Can't believe no one has mentioned this yet.
Can you post a link to that part?
 

JamaicaJoe

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A little update to my CB noise investigation. I found the radio "noise blanker" settings were suppressing some of the noise. Once disabled, the noise appeared to be plain engine ignition noise. A RPM related buzz. I pulled all the plug coils, scrapped corrosion and made sure all the coils and connectors were seated and snugged correctly. It helped a lot. But there is still a bit of a RPM related buzz. It doesn't appear to be coming over the 12V. I ran the radio on a separate battery with the engine on and off...no difference. Next up is to check the antenna grounding and coax connections.
The Generation 2 Expy Coils have a slug of ferrite inside of the spring winding that creates contact with the top of the spark plug. Were those on yours? Aftermarket parts may vary.

I have also noticed that the plug gap expands quite a bit .080 inches, at 40K miles. This increases the spark voltage. Another problem is corrosion on the top of the plug and the lug on the coil where the spring attaches. A bit of sandpaper, de-oxit or equivalent electrical cleaner from CRC followed by dielectric grease will improve the coil performance. I should also mention that the rubber boots arc over and if you can, you might get some high temperature ones, made of light grey silicone.

You can also get ground straps and stainless ground contact clips to bond the hood to the chassis fore and aft.
 

LokiWolf

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He mentioned Turbo in the original post. So 2015+. FYI.
 
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cmc3

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The Generation 2 Expy Coils have a slug of ferrite inside of the spring winding that creates contact with the top of the spark plug. Were those on yours? Aftermarket parts may vary.

I have also noticed that the plug gap expands quite a bit .080 inches, at 40K miles. This increases the spark voltage. Another problem is corrosion on the top of the plug and the lug on the coil where the spring attaches. A bit of sandpaper, de-oxit or equivalent electrical cleaner from CRC followed by dielectric grease will improve the coil performance. I should also mention that the rubber boots arc over and if you can, you might get some high temperature ones, made of light grey silicone.

You can also get ground straps and stainless ground contact clips to bond the hood to the chassis fore and aft.
I have zeroed in on the plug coils. I pulled them all, scrapped corrosion, checked contacts, a moved them to different cylinders, Didn't make any difference. Today, I went through and checked the radio antenna and DC grounds. Re-did the chassis ground to get a better connection, didn't help. I finally to a antenna base and sniffed around the engine for the noise source. It originates around the wires connected to the plug coils. A six coils seem to be about the same. The suv has about 150K miles, I replace the plugs every 50K. This time around I think I'll replace the coil packs also.
 
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cmc3

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Have you tried to put a in-line noise reduction ground loop on the power wire to the CB?
that should take care of your problem, or at least reduce it significantly.
Can't believe no one has mentioned this yet.
I have 3 ferrite slugs in-line with the +12. Ground return is about a foot of heavy copper wire bolted to a welded piece of frame. I also added a 0.01uf across the +12/GND just inside the chassis.
 

JamaicaJoe

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I have zeroed in on the plug coils. I pulled them all, scrapped corrosion, checked contacts, a moved them to different cylinders, Didn't make any difference. Today, I went through and checked the radio antenna and DC grounds. Re-did the chassis ground to get a better connection, didn't help. I finally to a antenna base and sniffed around the engine for the noise source. It originates around the wires connected to the plug coils. A six coils seem to be about the same. The suv has about 150K miles, I replace the plugs every 50K. This time around I think I'll replace the coil packs also.
I have always considered replacing all the coil packs until I see the price for OEM, which is why I carry exactly one OEM COP. The aftermarket ones, both colorful and cheap don't get high reviews by the folks doing performance tunes.
 

JamaicaJoe

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I have zeroed in on the plug coils. I pulled them all, scrapped corrosion, checked contacts, a moved them to different cylinders, Didn't make any difference. Today, I went through and checked the radio antenna and DC grounds. Re-did the chassis ground to get a better connection, didn't help. I finally to a antenna base and sniffed around the engine for the noise source. It originates around the wires connected to the plug coils. A six coils seem to be about the same. The suv has about 150K miles, I replace the plugs every 50K. This time around I think I'll replace the coil packs also.
If you are certain plug noise is radiated directly into the antenna, try grounding the hood at all four corners to the body. EDIT: Make sure that your radio chassis ground or antenna coax DO NOT pass through the engine compartment firewall or are close proximity to wire bundles passing through the firewall. Wires should be , to extent possible, perpendicular (minimum coupling) but not parallel to those vehicle wires.
 
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cmc3

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If you are certain plug noise is radiated directly into the antenna, try grounding the hood at all four corners to the body. EDIT: Make sure that your radio chassis ground or antenna coax DO NOT pass through the engine compartment firewall or are close proximity to wire bundles passing through the firewall. Wires should be , to extent possible, perpendicular (minimum coupling) but not parallel to those vehicle wires.
I replaced all the plugs and coil packs. The noise went way down. The engine also seems to be running smother. The ignition buzz is still present, but way down. I have a solid ground to a nearby piece of chassis on the back of the radio. Next is to check the grounding at the antenna.
 

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