Up date to the skipping

[Tommy695]

After a few hundred dollars later I've figured out that it's not skipping because of the coil pack or plug. I checked the plug and coil pack in #4 again today and compared them with the #1 and the plug in #4 is bone dry and is getting hot so I changed the injector thinking it was bad and it wasn't because the plug is still dry after 20 minutes of driving. Any ideas why the gas ain't goin to the cylinder.
I even swapped the injector with another one and it stayed the same.

 

[trdragons44]

Is the fuel rail or the injector seat clogged?


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[Tommy695]

No it's not clogged. Gas was coming out when I changed the injector out.

 

[98EXPY 5-0]

Is #4 at the supply end of the fuel rail or the far end? I know that the issue with older turbo cars when building more boost was that the fuel system couldn't put enough fuel into the stock rail and the far cylinder ends up starving. Not that you are building boost, but I am wondering if some other restriction is causing a deficiency where the other 3 cylinders "take" all the fuel?

 

[SkyJumper]

What is your fuel pressure at the fuel rail. You have a schrader valve to test it.

 

[toms89]

After a few hundred dollars later I've figured out that it's not skipping because of the coil pack or plug. I checked the plug and coil pack in #4 again today and compared them with the #1 and the plug in #4 is bone dry and is getting hot so I changed the injector thinking it was bad and it wasn't because the plug is still dry after 20 minutes of driving. Any ideas why the gas ain't goin to the cylinder.
I even swapped the injector with another one and it stayed the same.

Could be something bad in the valve train. Lifter, rocker, valve!? Or bad connector for injector, cop or wiring. Plug will get hot just being in the motor. Any noises associated with problem?

Can do compression test to see if problem is mechanical in nature.

 

[SkyJumper]

Can do compression test to see if problem is mechanical in nature.

That is what I asked him to do before. That will tell alot if it is, or is not. Best ot do process of elimination than guessing from A to Z.

 

[Tommy695]

A friend checked the compression last night and he told me it was good.

 

[toms89]

That is what I asked him to do before. That will tell alot if it is, or is not. Best ot do process of elimination than guessing from A to Z.

Agreed...

 

[Tommy695]

Could be something bad in the valve train. Lifter, rocker, valve!? Or bad connector for injector, cop or wiring. Plug will get hot just being in the motor. Any noises associated with problem?

Can do compression test to see if problem is mechanical in nature.

No there's no noises at all just a rough idel and it acts like its not getting enough gas when it gets in a bind something or needs the power.

 

[toms89]

I am not familiar with your previous post off hand. Not sure why your certain that one specific cylinder is not getting fuel but if this is truly the case it has to be bad injector, connector, wiring or driver (ecu).

Mechanic stethescope on injector will tell you if its working or not. They are very loud when working. This will not tell you flow rate or pattern though.

 

[SkyJumper]

2 areas I would suggest you go to.

1st- do a psi check of the fuel rail. This will tell you if your supply is adequate to your demand.

2nd- Do a compression test on each cylinder, not just cylinder 4, all of them. If you do one, you do all.

Those two areas will either tell you alot, or it will tell yo to stay away from that part of the equation.

Only areas left would be spark and air.

Have you reset the CEL's after you did the wire repair and COP and plug exchange? If so, what was your new or same CEL codes?

 

[Tommy695]

I am not familiar with your previous post off hand. Not sure why your certain that one specific cylinder is not getting fuel but if this is truly the case it has to be bad injector, connector, wiring or driver (ecu).

Mechanic stethescope on injector will tell you if its working or not. They are very loud when working. This will not tell you flow rate or pattern though.

I'm not 100% certain that it's #4 cylinder that's just what the scanners keep saying. Misfire on #4 is what it says. Only thing I can think of is the injector plug on the wiring harness end is bad or something. Only reason I don't understand it is because it was running fine until I did the tune up on it. It has to be something stupid right in front of me that I'm not seeing just wanted to see what anyone's suggestions were.

 

[SkyJumper]

What did you do when you did a tune-up. Meaning what was everything you did in doing this? Thanks

 

[K5rnt]

Check the fuel pressure. Sounds just like the problem I had with my wife's 99 EB.
It was loosing fuel pressure under load. The problem was the little piece of rubber hose that connects the fuel pump to the metal line inside the tank was cracked and leaking. The truck would also loose pressure if it set awhile like over night and it would have to crank like 5 to 10 seconds before it would get gas and start.

 

[Tommy695]

What did you do when you did a tune-up. Meaning what was everything you did in doing this? Thanks

I changed the air filter, plugs, coil packs, and oil and filter. The only thing is I didn't change #4 the same day. I changed it a few days later because I didn't have time to finish that day because it took a lot longer than I thought it would to do that but it ran fine for those few days until I did change the #4 plug and pack and after that it has done nothing but run me crazy trying to figure it out. I don't have a lot of Special tools or a bunch of money to pay someone to check everything so I'm trying to fix it myself. I just dont see how it went from running do good to crap by changing one plug and coil pack.

 

[K5rnt]

Pack may not be seated good. Or have a bad connection at the connector.

 

[SkyJumper]

OK, so lets look at this another way then since this happened after you installed the #4 plug after the rest on another day.

First off, recheck the pvc tube and make sure the PVC is seated in the valve cover. That is easy to pull out or bend over sideways when working in that area as it is under the heater core hoses and engine management wiring harnesses. Then check to see if you reinstalled the COP pigtails to the right COP, see if you have a pigtail going to the wrong cylinder. Next, check the wiring harness that leads under the plastic cover that covers the starter relay and the distribution boxes. That is located at the back right hand (P/S) firewall just above to the right of cylinder 4. Check to see if you possibly scared or cut or dislodged a wire there. Check everything and anything in that area of cylinder #4. Something is a miss that is causing this and it may have nothing to do with the COP or plug or cylinder 4 at all. It would be easy to disconnect or cut or short something out in such tight places that are surrounded by other crap. Also ensure that the ground is connected to the firewall just above cylinder 4.

 

[K5rnt]

Also may want to check the electrical connector going to the #4 injector. It's possible it got unplugged when you were changing the plug or COP

 

[Tommy695]

OK, so lets look at this another way then since this happened after you installed the #4 plug after the rest on another day.

First off, recheck the pvc tube and make sure the PVC is seated in the valve cover. That is easy to pull out or bend over sideways when working in that area as it is under the heater core hoses and engine management wiring harnesses. Then check to see if you reinstalled the COP pigtails to the right COP, see if you have a pigtail going to the wrong cylinder. Next, check the wiring harness that leads under the plastic cover that covers the starter relay and the distribution boxes. That is located at the back right hand (P/S) firewall just above to the right of cylinder 4. Check to see if you possibly scared or cut or dislodged a wire there. Check everything and anything in that area of cylinder #4. Something is a miss that is causing this and it may have nothing to do with the COP or plug or cylinder 4 at all. It would be easy to disconnect or cut or short something out in such tight places that are surrounded by other crap. Also ensure that the ground is connected to the firewall just above cylinder 4.

Ok so let me ask you this. Why would all the other plugs be wet like they're getting plenty of gas to em but the #4 is staying dry. I had another guy tell me that when it started misfiring on that cylinder that the computer may have cut the gas off to that injector. Is that something that could happen and if so how do you get it to reset. I've called the ford dealerships around were I live and all they want to do is hook it up to their machines and charge your out the butt to do it. I just went out and rechecked all the wires and hoses and the PVC valve. It all looks good from what I can tell. I was told it could be the egr system so I changed the valve and the pressure sensor and that didn't change a thing except about 2 miles to gallon on my average.