Updated: FIXED (?) New CALIPER, rotors and pads. Still HOT!!!

[hawkman71]

Changed out pads and rotors last week. Was surprised to find one pad (outside only) worn down to nothing. I had just put these cheap pads on 6 months ago in Canada while on a trip. (After replacing struts and stuff before the trip, I looked through the caliper and figured I'd make it. 800 miles later at our destination, and I was hearing grinding...).

Well, the rotors didn't look great then and I figured I'd re-do it all later. That day came last weekend.

I thought it performed well but my wife said she felt it braked somewhat soft - like it needed a 2nd press of the pedal. I figured it was having the calipers stretched back out to get them over the rotor. Well, today, in town, at very slow speed in a parking lot, I felt the ever-so-slight pulse in the pedal that said to me 'Crap, did you overtighten something and warp a rotor?' (i had rented a torque wrench last night to check my lugs). We got out of the car and my wife smelled something coming from her side. Sure enough, the wheel was hot as heck.

The edge of the 'painted' rotor looks like the heat has flaked the paint off. The inside of edge looks normal. The wear on the new pads AND rotor is not completely across the surface. Only half the pad is doing anything. I even think the pad has a crack in the surface.

I'm guessing I need a new caliper.

Can I buy Wearever for $75 or do I need the Motorcraft for $150, if this is my problem?

 

[hawkman71]

I will add that the one pad (I think outside pad, same one that was worn down last time) had a lot of brake dust already in the little 'v' between the two section of padded material on the pad.

 

[mjp2]

Definitely dragging a caliper. I personally feel that brakes and tires are not the places to save money as they're too critical to safety but go with what you're comfortable with.

It's a safe bet that the bed-in procedure for that wheel has not been followed. Take that rotor to a shop and have them turn it before reinstalling and you should be fine.

 

[JExpedition07]

I just had the same issue in my passenger side, dragging caliper. My dealers locally didn’t have stock so I went to NAPA and got a Ford reman. Overall went well.

 

[TobyU]

Get a caliper at O'Reilly or Advance and use some sandpaper to scuff up the rotor a bit. I use 90-100 or a little round buffer pad on air tool.
Did you check the calipers and pins when you did the pads to make sure all was free and greased well?
I can tell by the way a piston pushed in with c-clamp if it is sticking.
I actually lift the dust seal up around the piston and spray wd-40 and usually lucas chain lube all around the piston before I press it in. Helps free up stuff and prevent later sticking and corrosion.
Lifetime warranty on store calipers....NOT on motorcraft..If I am remembering correctly.

 

[16plati]

Changed out pads and rotors last week. Was surprised to find one pad (outside only) worn down to nothing. I had just put these cheap pads on 6 months ago in Canada while on a trip. (After replacing struts and stuff before the trip, I looked through the caliper and figured I'd make it. 800 miles later at our destination, and I was hearing grinding...).

Well, the rotors didn't look great then and I figured I'd re-do it all later. That day came last weekend.

I thought it performed well but my wife said she felt it braked somewhat soft - like it needed a 2nd press of the pedal. I figured it was having the calipers stretched back out to get them over the rotor. Well, today, in town, at very slow speed in a parking lot, I felt the ever-so-slight pulse in the pedal that said to me 'Crap, did you overtighten something and warp a rotor?' (i had rented a torque wrench last night to check my lugs). We got out of the car and my wife smelled something coming from her side. Sure enough, the wheel was hot as heck.

The edge of the 'painted' rotor looks like the heat has flaked the paint off. The inside of edge looks normal. The wear on the new pads AND rotor is not completely across the surface. Only half the pad is doing anything. I even think the pad has a crack in the surface.

I'm guessing I need a new caliper.

Can I buy Wearever for $75 or do I need the Motorcraft for $150, if this is my problem?

Did you follow the proper break in procedures for the pads and rotors? There is normally a 5-7 minute procedure required to seat the pads on the rotors for them to imprint correctly...

 

[Trainmaster]

Like Toby says, check your caliper pins. Make sure they slide. Clean and grease them. If the caliper is bad you'll know it when you press in the pistons.

Don't buy junk -- is your brakes.

 

[hawkman71]

I admit, I don't know about the break-in procedure. I've done a "good number" of pads over the years (my own vehicles) but will be glad to know more.

I did not check the pins and will do so today.


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[hawkman71]

I feel weird putting grease on the clips that the pad slides on. Seems like putting a lube near the braking surface is not smart. However, I must be wrong bc everyone says to do it, it seems.


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[Trainmaster]

The grease is just dabbed on the tabs that ride on the slides. The idea is to keep the pads from binding. This is more critical on cars without the replaceable stainless slide surfaces. On those vehicles rust and pitting can cause pads to hang up. The grease helps pads "ride over" the irregular or worn iron slides.

Brake grease doesn't run and you're not smearing on enough to get onto any friction surfaces.

What's more important is to make certain those pads can freely slide on the rails. Many cheap aftermarket pads are poorly machined and oversized and bind. They should be filed down to glide freely. Sometimes a buildup of rust under the stainless slide surfaces make the pads tight. That should be brushed or ground off so everything moves easily.

Of course no brake job should be done without disassembling the caliper pins and greasing them. The little rubber sealing boots should be changed or at least inspected to make sure they keep water out of the sliding pins. Those pins have to slide easily and not bind.

Most folks also grease the backing plate of the pads to dampen vibration that can cause squealing. There are other compounds available for that if the grease disagrees with you.