What’s with these dealers?

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Trainmaster

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A salesman's job is to get the most he can for his product without killing the sale. If a buyer isn't a good negotiator, is dull, or dim, or stupid, or simply not worldly he will be ripped off.

For the love of God, if you send your mother/daughter/19-year-old-kid/Democrat grandpa in to "get a deal," go with him to keep him out of trouble.

A friend showed me the great Kia he bought. Only after showing me the contract did he discover he leased the s*itbox. He thought he bought it.
 

5150 pops

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It has always been this way for me since 1988, when I bought my first car.

I've learned over the years, most times the real pushy - almost like their reciting from a script verbatim, have less than 2 years on the job, or in sales of any kind.

The one thing I have learned to receive everytime I'm met with what kind of rate/monthly/term, is I simply need your best price possible, the rest will naturally fall in place.
You have to do lots of pricing research ahead of time as well as pre-approval from your bank or credit union for a predetermined amount/rate and term.
There's quite a few online "cash for your used car" I've used to gauge real trade value. These sites will usually price you a bit lite, but from further research you still can gauge whethsr you may be able to negotiate more for your trade.

All thatasidet it is up to the individual to protect their wallet, and usually REQUIRES divulging the LEAST amount of information necessary to the salesperson.
Repeated responses of I'm looking for the best price, and if your store provides me with the best price, I will buy today. They need nothing else from you, if they want to sell a unit. Once you do have your price, it's at this time if you haven't already done so during negotiating price, have the pinstripes, wheel locks, any dealership advertisements, etc. as a condition of sale on the buyer's order

I'm not saying my way is best, but it has saved me a great deal of time. If I get the four square within 10 minutes of being on the lot, wanting to talk price (presumably to them as a cash buyer), I'm out the door, with a smile on my face, because I know I just saved a shit ton of my time and money.
Once price is agreed upon, I mention letting them have an opportunity to price my current vehicle. Then the game restarts, EXCEPT price is already locked down from a written buyer's order.
So you either negotiate into a price for your trade, or walk if they won't come up on the offer. They won't offer you what they are really ready to pay you for your car, at first, but stick it out, and you probably can get close to where you'd like, or walk.
Then repeat for the finance office, if you want to give them a chance to earn your financing. You will already know what you have, presumably from your bank and it's solid.

First thing I tell the F&I person after the initial introduction, is to let them know straight up front, I have zero interest in discussing extended warranty, undercoating, service for life, etc. they may suddenly forget or remember something else that is sooooo fantastic they just would not be doing their job if they didn't mention it to you. Be prepared AS SOON AS you hear that line come out of their mouth, to get up politely, and tell them that it is unfortunate we could not close this deal, have a good day.

Likely they will apologise, and the rest will go swimmingly, but be sure to check the numbers every step of the way, with your own calculator.
 

ManUpOrShutUp

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A salesman's job is to get the most he can for his product without killing the sale. If a buyer isn't a good negotiator, is dull, or dim, or stupid, or simply not worldly he will be ripped off.

For the love of God, if you send your mother/daughter/19-year-old-kid/Democrat grandpa in to "get a deal," go with him to keep him out of trouble.

A friend showed me the great Kia he bought. Only after showing me the contract did he discover he leased the s*itbox. He thought he bought it.

My mom makes over $300K/year as VP of billing, has an MBA and is about as far right as one person can get, but has always lacked savvy when it comes to her own personal finances. I can't wrap my head around it. Forget about trying to help her. She's been a high-paid exec/the big boss for over 3 decades so you can't tell her anything. On the bright side, she can afford to be ripped off. :D

btw the salesman doesn't get a pass on being a scumbag just because it's his job. You can be a tough negotiator without hiding additions/subtractions in the fine print. There's a big difference between a customer trying to haggle with me and one that agrees to pay me $100, hands me $90 and tries to run out the door before I can count it.
 
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JExpedition07

JExpedition07

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Commercial guy called yesterday and mentioned what flex did about going the cutaway route. He said the E-350 cutaway has the 6.2L V8 and 6.8L V10 available and it’s largely the same chassis as the old cargo van. We’ve had very good luck with the 6.2L V8 on the Super Duties, been bulletproof reliable over lots of miles. Online I see torque on the Super Duty 6.2 is 430 lb ft and it’s a bit lower on the E-350 (356 lb ft) why’s this? Not that it matters to him anyway. Salesman said he’s got a couple like new Chevy expresses coming in too with less than 20k on them (ford dealer). So he will be looking over his options again. I would think an E-350 with a work body/ either engine is a good truck.
 
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Adieu

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I went with to a a Chevrolet dealership today to look at a replacement work van for my dads aging E-350. We have a commercial salesman at Ford and looked at the Transit, piece of garbage. We know these people well as the company buys lots of trucks from them. Light duty chassis, small brakes, no V8 etc. Parts guy said they are a nightmare and to keep the E-350 or move on and highly recommended the E-Series over the transit for the sever duty. The 2008 E-350 is coming up on 225,000 miles and regularly has over 1,000 LBS in the back and tows often, it’s been a great truck for him. I work with my dad a lot as he does the HVAC for our builds. Truck has never wined and has done alot of service. Regular dealer has no 2014 E-350 trades with low miles.....ok moving on to their Chevrolet branch late at night.

Walked in gave info and they walk back with a payment “guide” with a 7% INTEREST RATE!?!? We regularly pay in the 4% range for trucks at Ford, That’s almost double. I often find myself going into the dealer and negotiating on the trucks. But personally we pay the close to same rates as we buy from the same commercial salesman. Guy is sketchy and said he hasn’t ran a report, ok so go run it? He danced around the gross price on the van and only wanted to talk about the payment. Walked around interest and payment. So speaking of walking we walked out the door. Perhaps it’s not involving the commercial sales manager at this hour, but it was still odd and sketchy how they operated. I’m used to going in working on gross price and trade first then dealing with interest, to which ford is never anywhere close to 7%. I get he was using a “guide”, but why do the dance and work on payment only? He was all gun hoe on setting up a nice fat interest rate and only wanted to work on loan terms. Anyway enough ranting, it was odd.

Borrow elsewhere, never ever talk payments with a salesman.

Many will gladly sell you 1-2-3-4% or even 0% and them try to stiff you $10k on the price
 

Habbibie

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Borrow elsewhere, never ever talk payments with a salesman.

Many will gladly sell you 1-2-3-4% or even 0% and them try to stiff you $10k on the price
Show up with a 840 or higher credit score and no average Joe salesman will ask you for a down payment or tell you any interest
 

1955moose

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Too many games. Now I remember why I buy low mileage used from private party. Theirs got to be an easier way to buy a new van. Bottom line get your borrowed money elsewhere, and shop the internet for best price, and pick up there. It's worth a 100 mile drive not to go through all the bull.

Sent from my N9131 using Tapatalk
 

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