What did you do to your expedition today?

[hooraah]

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Mind sharing what bearing part# / brand you used? I did this on my wife's car about six months ago. Saved a bundle. Thanks!

I don't exactly remember the brand that was supplied, maybe F&D? I ordered them on Amazon from JSB great bearings. They were $1.68 each with $6 shipping (total) so I ordered 5 of them for a total of $15.

Looking back I guess 5 was a dumb number because they get replaced in pairs....

Anyway the bearing number itself is 6203-2. I don't remember the dimensions but if you google that part number you'll find them posted.

 

[71Rcode]

Thanks for the info hoorah. I also did some googling earlier this morning and found that same information.

#CG-425 is a Ford INTERNAL part number. The dimensions on the bearing are 40X17X12 mm. O.D=40 I.D=17 ----- Part #6203-2RSHC3.

I just ordered 2 SKF bearings from here: Over 200 million bearings to search from

Pricey at $25 shipped, but I only wanted to change these out once.

 

[Yudaman]

I don't EVER recommend to my customers to press the bearings out and reinstall on Ford pulleys!!!!!!!!!!
They are stamped steel and when you press the bearing out and the new one in, the press fit is gone. That means during regular driving, the pulley can and may walk itself off the bearing.
I sell bearings as a major product line at work, and I replaced my pulleys brand new recently. As far as the replacement, I believe they are just 6203-2rs bearings. That is the most popular size in the entire world (just a little useless trivia for you). And you will get what you pay for! SKF is the best in the world. Period. If you bought some for less than $2 each, I would keep an eye on them.

Not bashing on your work, I just have to be able to sleep at night. If I didn't at least give you warning of the consequences I would prolly have nightmares.

 

[QbanCgar]

Finished my headlight upgrades this weekend!
New black background Euro style clear headlights and crystal fogs. Much better lighting with MUCH better looks!

New look


Old factory look


Well worth the money so far!!!

SWEET look! i plan on upgrading my head & tail lights. where did you get get the clear fog lights from, & how much did they set you back?

 

[71Rcode]

I don't EVER recommend to my customers to press the bearings out and reinstall on Ford pulleys!!!!!!!!!!
They are stamped steel and when you press the bearing out and the new one in, the press fit is gone. That means during regular driving, the pulley can and may walk itself off the bearing.

That's great info/perspective from a guy that sells bearings everyday...but as I've already laid down the cash, I'm going to have to have to roll the dice. I wonder if it makes sense to either score/marr the outer bearing or the inside of the pulley, slightly crease/dimple the pulley ID on either side of the bearing, or use adhesive of some kind as a preventative measure. I know... but this kind of backward thinking has got through life a lot if years.

Just read this... I may try it: "When you go to replace the bearing, freeze the bearing (overnight) and throw the pulley in the oven(hour at 450*). Then press it in."

 

[Yudaman]

That's great info/perspective from a guy that sells bearings everyday...but as I've already laid down the cash, I'm going to have to have to roll the dice. I wonder if it makes sense to either score/marr the outer bearing or the inside of the pulley, slightly crease/dimple the pulley ID on either side of the bearing, or use adhesive of some kind as a preventative measure. I know... but this kind of backward thinking has got through life a lot if years.

I would recommend that you just leave them as is and just keep an eye on things.
As far as marring or scoring, that is always a very bad idea. Not only does it make the press wrong, but it also raises metal which can cause deformation of the outer ring of the bearing. Those deformations will in effect become "speedbumps" for the rolling elements (balls in the bearing). Those "speedbumps" will get smashed down by the rolling elements and create a "pothole". Like any pothole in a roadway, the more times a car's tire hits it, the bigger it gets. And then your bearing is junk.
About the best way to ensure proper press fit would be to use a retaining compound. Like a Loctite number 609.

Sorry for the lecture, but after 17 years at an industrial distribution company that used to be named "Bearings Inc." I have been through far too many hours of bearing training. LOL

 

[Yudaman]

Just read this... I may try it: "When you go to replace the bearing, freeze the bearing (overnight) and throw the pulley in the oven(hour at 450*). Then press it in."

Yes and no...

Temperature differential installation is great! But, I would modify the directions a little.
A 6203 wont take very long in the freezer to get cold (and shrink). Overnight is fine if you have the time, but realistically it will only take maybe 15 minutes.
As far as the heating, with the stamped steel pulleys I feel that 450 is too hot! You are bordering on altering the temper of the steel. After all, you only need to get a couple of thousanth's clearance gain for the slip fit. 200-220 degrees is typically the magic number. Hot enough for expansion, yet not enough to alter the temper of the steel.

 

[71Rcode]

Solid advice Yudaman. I'm going to try your recommendation and report back. I'll also freeze the pulleys/old bearings prior to removing the bearings. Thanks again, man!

 

[BrandonB]

We always used liquid nitrogen to shrink cylinder inserts. Went super quick with it! But I bet it wouldn't be so good on a sealed bearing

 

[hooraah]

They are stamped steel and when you press the bearing out and the new one in, the press fit is gone. That means during regular driving, the pulley can and may walk itself off the bearing.

I see what you are saying could happen, but in reality I cannot see the press fit being altered significantly based on the amount of force it took to press those things in there. Besides, if the pressing was going to stress the base material past yield, it would in the thinner web section of the pulley going from the ID to the OD of the pulley, not the relatively thicker ID section. Again, I can picture a design where that may happen, I just don't see it happening in this case. I could be wrong though.