What did you do to your expedition today?

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hooraah

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SKF is the best in the world. Period. If you bought some for less than $2 each, I would keep an eye on them. ;)

Good point. I realized that the lowest bidder on a bearing probably isn't giving me the highest quality part, but then what would I get in a reman pulley from duralast/dayco? From the Ford dealer? Its hard to say unless you're in the supply chain, but its definitely not an SKF because the bearing itself is more than the whole pulley from the auto parts store.

If this were my every day truck, I might be more discerning with parts, but this thing is a beater. The bearings that came out had a little grind to them when you spun them but didn't wobble at all after probably 200k miles. These bearings run smooth, but may not stay that way for long. Who knows? I suspect the bearings I put in are better than what came out, and for a truck I drive maybe 1k miles/year thats good enough for me. Maybe I should make that more explicit when telling other people how to do it.

I don't want you to think I'm arguing with you too hard, I appreciate the advice especially from someone with industry experience. I'm actually in engineering myself but in my field we have people dedicated to only doing bearings so I don't see too much of that.
 

hooraah

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I wonder if it makes sense to either score/marr the outer bearing or the inside of the pulley, slightly crease/dimple the pulley ID on either side of the bearing, or use adhesive of some kind as a preventative measure. I know...:facepalm: but this kind of backward thinking has got through life a lot if years.

Just read this... I may try it: "When you go to replace the bearing, freeze the bearing (overnight) and throw the pulley in the oven(hour at 450*). Then press it in."

I wouldn't worry about that. You'll see when you get the bearing in the pulley and see how tight it is you'll see why you don't need to do that.

As far as heating/cooling, yes, thats a common method of assisting press fits, but I don't know that I'd want to work with something that hot. Maybe freeze the bearing and heat the pulley up to 200F or so, otherwise you're going to have to try to maneuver the pulley into your vice using tongs or similar.
 

SHAGGYS EXPO

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Replaced my transfer case starter motor. UGH. Sounded easy. But pulling all those wires out the clip and transferig them were fun fun. Waiting for new radiator. Had the side busy out on me. JB welded it together. And a pin hole popped out. So just gonna replace her.
 

l3l4k0ut

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vacuumed out, wiped down every interior surface. cleaned out all my junk in the console (coins, old receipts) needed it bad :) now its clean, no gunk, no crap. oh n i changed the oil too. motorcraft filter.
 

QbanCgar

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vacuumed out, wiped down every interior surface. cleaned out all my junk in the console (coins, old receipts) needed it bad :) now its clean, no gunk, no crap. oh n i changed the oil too. motorcraft filter.

i plan on doing this tomorrow...MUCH needed!
 

BrandonB

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This was yesterday -- broke a cam cap bolt off :/ Today I ordered a replacement and a few more and am picking up left handed drill bits to try to fix my boo boo.
 
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SHAGGYS EXPO

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Anyone able to give some advice on putting 35s under a 98 EB. what have u used. Have already swapped out the air ride kit.
 
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IMINYOURCHAIR

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I've had a wheel speed vibration since I got new tires. had them rotated and balanced today but the vibration seemed to move with the tires. I lifted the front end up to spin the tires to check for roundness issues. I think that they were mounted wrong as there seems to be a flat spot on both tires. (both are brand new but have about 400 miles on them) I will try another store since I have free rotate balance for life of tires if they can't resolve it I will pay an independent shop to re mount them for me.
 

BrandonB

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Kinda cold this morning and the ground was wet so didn't get as much done as I wanted. I went and got it tagged so that's out of the way. Also stopped by and borrowed an engine lift, bought some chain and took the alternator off to use it's bolts to mount the chain too.

Tomorrows task - unhook motor mounts, lift engine, drop oil pan and clean the pan and pickup tube/screen.
 

sitruc_btb

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How clean the floor is after this job is very impressive.

I wince every time I see a slob in a youtube video.

Thank you.

Haha! I did spill a bit while dumping the oil into a container, but no mess other than that. Brake clean and shop towels are a must. I also swept up the rust and old gasket material afterwards so the girlfriend wont throw a fit. Gotta keep a clean work area!
 

BrandonB

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Put my oil pan back on ( that was a #@$#@$#@$#@$ ), lowered the engine and put the motor mounts back on started taking the stuff off the front end to take the front cover off and change guides/chains/etc.

I have never cussed a radiator hose before until today... That stupid "quick disconnect" fitting is false advertising. Nothing is quick about it. Didn't even end up getting it off, gave up for the night. Half tempted to cut the damn thing off.
 
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IMINYOURCHAIR

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Put my oil pan back on ( that was a #@$#@$#@$#@$ ), lowered the engine and put the motor mounts back on started taking the stuff off the front end to take the front cover off and change guides/chains/etc.

I have never cussed a radiator hose before until today... That stupid "quick disconnect" fitting is false advertising. Nothing is quick about it. Didn't even end up getting it off, gave up for the night. Half tempted to cut the damn thing off.

if you're talking about the ones that go to the heater core you can cut them off. I did mine. just cut as close to where the plastic starts from the old fitting and the hose should fit over the metal end. (after the rest of the old fitting is removed, iirc it's just the white plastic part, fold the tabs over backwards then pull it off). You can use screw on clamps to secure the hoses back.
 
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IMINYOURCHAIR

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My intermittent no start almost kept me from work today. spent about 5 mins trying the starter only getting a click each time. finally got it though. I pulled the connections apart to inspect them but only found very mild corrosion on the left bolt on the firewall relay. the actual starter connections were clean.
 

BrandonB

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if you're talking about the ones that go to the heater core you can cut them off. I did mine. just cut as close to where the plastic starts from the old fitting and the hose should fit over the metal end. (after the rest of the old fitting is removed, iirc it's just the white plastic part, fold the tabs over backwards then pull it off). You can use screw on clamps to secure the hoses back.

It's the lower radiator hose. It connects to the engine with a traditional squeeze clamp, but the connection to the radiator itself is some sort of 45 degree twist release hose.
 

chucks97expy

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Changing my radiator in the morning, just love how everyone makes them with plastic sides that crack from age. Thanks guys for the heads up on the hoses. Hope this isn't an all day job but on the brighter side, it's suppose to be 60 degrees here in Chicago... SPRING IS FINALLY HERE!! lol
 
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bedrck46

Friend and I just installed a new Radiator in his 99 and the best advice is to also replace the lower Rad hose will save you a lot of grief. Also suggest you remove the overflow tank and remove the hose at the engine Lift out radiator and lower hose all at once

When installing hose on Radiator spray some silicone spray on the connection and push the hose on using some force

Also we replaced the lower hose with a Gates hose Perfect fit
 
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