Thats horrible. I’ve always had this dream of finding a sunroof free Expedition to avoid rocker rust. Well, if I ever find one without rust I’ll add a few more drains to the rockers. On mine, nature added it’s own rocker drain.
What to look for when buying a gen3 expy
- Thread starter JUST4FUN
- Start date
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Richard Mickelson
Active Member
2015owner2015
Full Access Members
Turned out to be the plugs. Running great now. This has been one of the most trouble free vehicles I have ever owned
GlennSullivan
Full Access Members
2011
The 6 speed trans has less than positive shifts. After several software flash upgrades and no satisfactory resolution, I learned to deal with it by letting off gas slightly when I wanted it to shift. But anyone that this truck for the first time noticed the shift lag. Not present in tow / haul mode.
The 20” Pirelli Scorpions that came standard on the 4x4 Limited are useless in the snow, although a good summer / southern state tire.
HVAC duct redirector - loud clicking noise. Needed to have unit replaced, buried deep in dash, expensive repair.
As stated in another post, the color / lighting of the instrument panel is such that it is extremely difficult to read.
Front brake shudder, started at low mileage. Had rotors cut and when problem returned 10k later replaced rotors.
Battery - replaced after 4 years, but that is not so unusual.
Corrosion paint bubbling around rear hatch wiper assembly. Note rear hatch is aluminum. Truck is pearl white and Im concerned about a paint match during repair.
2014
The 20” Pirellis Scorpion that came standard on the 4x4 Limited are useless in the snow, although a good summer / southern state tire.
Shift lag problem was not present in 2014.
Left rear wing window not properly glued to support frame and actually fell out while I was driving along.
As stated in another post, the color / lighting of the instrument panel is such that it is extremely difficult to read.
Whistling in HVAC ductwork at specific fan speeds. Evidently there were HVAC hardware changes between 11 and 14 as my 11 does not have this issue. Dealer stated no fix, bothered me so much I traded in the truck for new ‘17
2017
Rear hatch window leaking water during heavy rain and car wash, took dealer 3 trys to correct.
Issues with positive battery post leaking acid and even though I cleaned the terminals every 4000 miles at oil change, the positive (paper thin) terminal was eaten completely through. This opened up a whole can of worms with Ford. See my other post on this subject for details.
The 6 speed trans has less than positive shifts. After several software flash upgrades and no satisfactory resolution, I learned to deal with it by letting off gas slightly when I wanted it to shift. But anyone that this truck for the first time noticed the shift lag. Not present in tow / haul mode.
The 20” Pirelli Scorpions that came standard on the 4x4 Limited are useless in the snow, although a good summer / southern state tire.
HVAC duct redirector - loud clicking noise. Needed to have unit replaced, buried deep in dash, expensive repair.
As stated in another post, the color / lighting of the instrument panel is such that it is extremely difficult to read.
Front brake shudder, started at low mileage. Had rotors cut and when problem returned 10k later replaced rotors.
Battery - replaced after 4 years, but that is not so unusual.
Corrosion paint bubbling around rear hatch wiper assembly. Note rear hatch is aluminum. Truck is pearl white and Im concerned about a paint match during repair.
2014
The 20” Pirellis Scorpion that came standard on the 4x4 Limited are useless in the snow, although a good summer / southern state tire.
Shift lag problem was not present in 2014.
Left rear wing window not properly glued to support frame and actually fell out while I was driving along.
As stated in another post, the color / lighting of the instrument panel is such that it is extremely difficult to read.
Whistling in HVAC ductwork at specific fan speeds. Evidently there were HVAC hardware changes between 11 and 14 as my 11 does not have this issue. Dealer stated no fix, bothered me so much I traded in the truck for new ‘17
2017
Rear hatch window leaking water during heavy rain and car wash, took dealer 3 trys to correct.
Issues with positive battery post leaking acid and even though I cleaned the terminals every 4000 miles at oil change, the positive (paper thin) terminal was eaten completely through. This opened up a whole can of worms with Ford. See my other post on this subject for details.
Last edited:
gappbrown
Member
We bought our 2012 Limited EL new and it now has 158k. Awesome car. Just did the timing service with all OEM parts and the upgraded oil pump.
The rear A/C blower isn't running. It shows it is working on the dash but the blower isn't running.
Anyone have an idea where to start on that?
The rear A/C blower isn't running. It shows it is working on the dash but the blower isn't running.
Anyone have an idea where to start on that?
It would be better if you start your own thread on that subject.
If you need help with that,
https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/correct-way-to-start-a-thread.47954/
Bought my 07 almost 2 years ago but within the first week I replaced the battery, alternator, most of the hoses, fuel filter, and water pump. Now after two years I had to replace the radiator and condenser for leaking. But it's still one of the best vehicles I've owned.
I have replaced the alternator 3 times in 2 years and have had the rest of it inspected, my 07 just likes going through parts that aren't ford oem. Which sucks because I get parts cheap through an autozone commercial account as long as it's duralast.
Replace the gas cap if buying it used, I've had my 07 expedition for almost 2 years, bought with 192,000 and now has 207,000 and I replaced it today because there's been a gas smell after driving that's been getting worse. Apparently that little leak was enough for me to lose 100 miles on a full tank, before changing it'd say 318 miles at full, now it says 418.
ManUpOrShutUp
Full Access Members
Close, Chrysler.Jeez. Were the rest Dodges?
Bed line it. Best excuse to do it
Ferry Princess
New Member
My 2007 has presented the following "learning opportunities":
PCM crapped out - towing TT - ruined vacation
Coil pack caput - towing TT - ruined another vacation
Fan blower motor resistor toast
Passenger window regulator fried
Central locking doesnt work from inside vehicle
PCM crapped out - towing TT - ruined vacation
Coil pack caput - towing TT - ruined another vacation
Fan blower motor resistor toast
Passenger window regulator fried
Central locking doesnt work from inside vehicle
Bolt snapper
Full Access Members
I’m a former owner (Gen 2), and miss it for some reason, so looking at a Gen 3. This one’s a 2011 with 115k miles. I remember issues from my old one, and remember some of the concerns about the early Gen 3s, so here are some of my concerns, if you could give me some input:
It looks like it has the rusted rockers (they couldn’t figure this out in 8 years?). I can’t remember if there are any reasonable fixes for this (slip-on covers,etc.)?
Is the 3V in 2011 less susceptible to the cam phaser failure issue?
Is the coolant tube that runs under the intake (or did in the Gen 2) still susceptible to springing a leak? I remember the whole intake well full of coolant.
My radiator supports on the ‘04 were almost completely gone. Is this something that continued to plague later models?
Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!! I’m kinda anxious to get back to the Expedition family!
It looks like it has the rusted rockers (they couldn’t figure this out in 8 years?). I can’t remember if there are any reasonable fixes for this (slip-on covers,etc.)?
Is the 3V in 2011 less susceptible to the cam phaser failure issue?
Is the coolant tube that runs under the intake (or did in the Gen 2) still susceptible to springing a leak? I remember the whole intake well full of coolant.
My radiator supports on the ‘04 were almost completely gone. Is this something that continued to plague later models?
Any other advice would be greatly appreciated!! I’m kinda anxious to get back to the Expedition family!
Trainmaster
Old School Member
The rockers are a problem with all the years. The inside rocker panels have huge holes in them that are covered with tape from the factory. Once the tape's gone they collect salt and mud. Patch panels are available but the right repair will set you back at least $1500, often more.
The cam phaser / chain tensioner problem seems to be hit or miss. My 08 has been problem free with 150.000 miles. My 2010 V8 Explorer needed a timing job at 120,000 miles. Maybe a 50-50 chance?
Never had a problem with my 08's coolant tube, and the radiator supports are free of rust though my rocker panels were toast. Just did lower ball joints.
Look the frame over by the motor mounts. I'm starting to get some bad corrosion there, but it will probably never be a problem. Also check the body mounts.
Otherwise, if my '08 is any indication, they are pretty hardy trucks. My experience is that they remain trouble free up to about 150K, after that, expect some repairs with 210 - 240K being the time when I expect to get rid of them.
The cam phaser / chain tensioner problem seems to be hit or miss. My 08 has been problem free with 150.000 miles. My 2010 V8 Explorer needed a timing job at 120,000 miles. Maybe a 50-50 chance?
Never had a problem with my 08's coolant tube, and the radiator supports are free of rust though my rocker panels were toast. Just did lower ball joints.
Look the frame over by the motor mounts. I'm starting to get some bad corrosion there, but it will probably never be a problem. Also check the body mounts.
Otherwise, if my '08 is any indication, they are pretty hardy trucks. My experience is that they remain trouble free up to about 150K, after that, expect some repairs with 210 - 240K being the time when I expect to get rid of them.
Here is a screenshot of JD Powers average price paid for a car such as my wife's which is a 2013 King Ranch 4-wheel drive with just over 55,000 miles in perfect condition. The price you are being asked to pay for that expedition is probably double what it is worth, maybe more than double.
I change my spark plugs every 30,000 miles. Thanks to this interval, I have yet to come across a sparkplug removal issue. These 5.4 3v Triton engines require meticulous care to operate trouble free or close to.
ManUpOrShutUp
Full Access Members
The 2-piece plugs are long gone, so removal issues are not a concern. You're not going to gain any longevity by swapping them out way before their time either. It's your nickel, but it's not a turbo and swapping them out every 30k doesn't actually accomplish anything outside of raising your cost of ownership. Ditto for the use of Lucas fuel treatment every fill-up.
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