wheel bearing

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pittmike

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I am going to replace a rear wheel bearing assembly tomorrow on 2003 Expedition. I need to know what size is the large nut holding the assembly to the drive axle? I want to be sure I buy the right socket. Also, if you have any other warnings or tips on that job great.

Thanks.

PS why do the wheels seems so hard to remove on this truck? They fuse on?
 

FordandPolaris

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I know it is a big socket that you need. We just replaced the rear on my old man's 04. I am pretty sure that it is a 36mm socket that we had to use. For some scientific reason unknown to me alloy wheels tend to seize after going some time without being removed. My steel rims never have a problem with being removed. Give them a thump from behind with a sledgehammer. Doesnt take much to break them lose.
 
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pittmike

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Thanks I did find 36mm somewhere just need more confirmation. Also thanks on the wheel tip. I am pretty sure I heard something about the aluminum and steel having a reaction.
 

mindgame

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Argg.. It's either a 35 or 36mm... You could always drive to Napa and ask them to come with you to see which one fits..

Some torque number you may need..

Rear axle wheel hub retainer 338Nm/250lb-ft
Tow link Nut 55Nm/41lb-ft
Knuckle to lower control arm bolt 400Nm/295lb-ft
 

purple_50

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Did both my rear hubs not long ago, I used a 36 and it seemed to work just fine. Plus if it is 35, that little difference isn't enough to cause any harm. But if you buy the 35 and its actually a 36 it may not fit. Just do the 36
 
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pittmike

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everything came apart fine but i can't get the damn assembly off the truck? anyone have any pointers I dont want to be too rough and mess up the axle splines.
 

purple_50

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What part is stuck? I had to use an air hammer on mine, you can use it to push the center of the cv axle if its stuck. Mine were stuck in the housing and I just left the bolts threaded in a half dozen turns or so and used the air hammer on the head of the bolts to push the hub from the housing. It was a pita on the first one till I got the method figured out, second one took 10 min. Don't hammer the axle and wreck the threads though!

Sent from my NEXT8P using Tapatalk 2
 

FordandPolaris

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Just make sure you remove all 3 bolts holding it on from behind. We had to use a 10" gear puller to separate the front hubs from the splines on my 97 but the hub assembly came right off my old man's 04.
 

mindgame

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Make sure to also apply upward pressure on the lower controller arm so that the spindle is level with the half shaft...

Then,, use a BFH :)
 
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pittmike

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I have the bolts off and can see the axle part with splines slide back when i hammer it. Just cant get the hub assembly off at all?
 
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pittmike

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The bearing assembly inner parst and lug plate broke out but i just cant figure out why i cant get the assembly backer plate with the 4 bolt holes off the truck
 
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pittmike

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ok one more question please... The hub assembly is absolutely seized in the housing. It is the large steel piece that bolts to the upper and lower arms. What is the name of that piece that the splash guard or is on and the hub assembly goes into? thanks.
 

FordandPolaris

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I think he took those out. Do you mean the plate that is behind the hub? Try and take a pic if you can.
 
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pittmike

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Yeah the plate behind that has the connection to upper and lower arms i heard it called knuckle or spindle but not sure what stores call it
 

XR4Ti

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So what did you end up doing? I have the same problem -- the hub is seized in place with the spindle.
 

1955moose

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Buy both size sockets from Sears, they usually return anything. Just ask before you buy.
 

XR4Ti

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In my case it was 35mm and I was able to get a kit from a loan a tool program at my local Canadian Tire. 2005 Expedition Eddie Bauer AWD.

But I was referring to the hub being seized in the spindle. It is hard to hammer since the dust shield is in the way and is sandwiched between the hub and spindle. You can't really heat the spindle it since there is a foam anti-vibration/rattle piece on the dust shield would melt (well, I guess you could still heat other areas around it but I didn't). I hammered for a while hoping to shock it free, but that didn't work.

So I sprayed with WD-40 (nothing better around) and let it sit overnight. Then I put a jack on the threads to put some pressure at an angle on the hub (most of the suspension weight) and with a few hammer whacks it broke free.
 
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