Wheels have been decided. Question is will 275/70/18s fit??

[Black]

Saw a couple pics online of silver trucks with matte bronze (not glossy bronze) wheels and was really impressed with the contrast. So the search was on and pretty sure I am not going to find any better to my liking as the Black Rhino Roku. Simple describes them nicely.

The question remains will 275/70/18s fit? Or possibly even wider. I would like a 33” tire.
The wheels in question are 18x9.5 with a 12mm offset.

The rig will be lifted 1” to start and hopefully in the end lifted 3”. 33s should fit no question at 3” lift not sure about 1”
I am not wanting to go the spacer route so at the moment I am limited to 1”

 

[gixer2000]

Not sure about fitment but here's the difference between an oem 20" and your new specs. I'm guessing you'll rub on stock height and a 1" lift. I say that because I lifted 2" and was told it will now fit 33's.

 

[Black]

I can lift the front 2” and the rear 1”.
I happen to like the factory rake but leveled is not the end of the world for me if I can run 33s.

 

[Adieu]

33's should fit as-is unless the offset is horrendously off

Rancho levelling advertises that adding them allows you to clear 35"s


PS please tell me you ain't paying more than $100 total for them hooptie wheels

 

[AllBoostNoEco]

@shinysideup2 said he is rubbing with a 275/60R20 (33”) on a 20x9 with +18 offset, with no lift. He’s rubbing the fender trim. Your tire edge will be even further out than his, which would indicate to me that you’re likely going to have problems, even at 1” of lift. With 2”, I’d call it a maybe.

 

[Black]

33's should fit as-is unless the offset is horrendously off

Rancho levelling advertises that adding them allows you to clear 35"s


PS please tell me you ain't paying more than $100 total for them hooptie wheels

Sure would be nice if I could find them that cheap.
Just looking for a simple 5 or 6 spoke soft bronze wheel and it fits the bill.

 

[JExpedition07]

Are you getting rid of your stockers?

 

[Black]

Likely so as I should be able to get some decent money for them as I have tires with less than 8k miles on them.

Question is how long before I can put the money away to buy them.

 

[PSD Bullitt]

The lift is critical because the offset moves the tire outward under the edge of the fender and body. With the taller tire if you hit a dip or big bump where the springs/ shocks compress, your tire will hit the fender hard.

It probably won’t rub anywhere in a slow full turn without the lift but hitting a pothole or speed bump could cause body damage.

 

[shinysideup2]

Hey @Black. Think about a body lift in addition to your suspension lift. With a +12 offset and 33" x 10.8" tires, The outer edge of your tires will be pushed out over an inch as @gixer2000 indicated. Your 275/70R18 are the exact same outer dimensions as my 275/60R20 (33" x 10.8"). At a +18 offset, my tires "stick out" about 6mm (1/4") less than yours will with that wheel. At stock height, I rub pretty badly when 'wheeling, and have torn out part of my right rear fender trim. I've had to cut all 4 fender trims at the top with a razor blade, which helps give the tires a bit more room, but they still rub at full stuff. Any more trimming will require cutting metal, so I stopped there until I can find a not-too-rough looking fender solution.

Remember that suspension lifts (whether by spring or spacer) only change the resting position of your wheels in the same suspension arc (vs stock) relative to the body. So while you'll have more travel before you touch body parts, you will still likely rub body parts at full stuff when off-roading or driving over dips at a fun-but-faster-than-normal pace. This is why I'm a fan of body lifts. They don't look great, but they're super-functional in this respect. An inch of body lift can give you much better tire clearance than a couple inches of suspension lift. I plan on a 1" to 1.5" body lift in addition to a very mild suspension lift (1-2" like you), and I'll armor up (rock sliders, skid plates).

Now, the big question is- how do we install a body lift when nobody makes a kit? Washers & bolts... then gotta think about how to extend the steering column, and which wires and hoses will start to pull. Probably a full weekend project which I don't currently have time for.

BTW, on tires - I decided on Nitto LT-duty E-rated tires (Exo Grappler) because my main priorities are to NOT bust a tire when wheeling with the family, and tow-steadiness - hence the large 20" wheels (less than ideal for 'off-roading) + E-load range. Nitto tends to overbuild their tires. With the 20x9 Methods I got, this combo is 103 lbs per corner vs. the stock 77 lbs. Yikes! Acceleration and MPG both suffer a bit. I've also run Dick Cepek Extreme Country (E load range) on my 4Runner. Those are amazing tires, awesome off-road traction, air down nicely, but not as stiff or durable as the Nittos and a bit noisier due to the larger tread voids.

Good luck with your decision. Nice wheels! They look a bit like Volk TE-37's.

 

[Black]

Guess I will stick with 285/65/18 with the 1” lift.
The 1/2” extra width per tire would likely be more beneficial than the 1/4” of height.

 

[Black]

Well plans have possibly changed as it appears I will be getting (5) BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO2s with light mileage for the cost of nothing. They are 285/70/17s.
So looking at 17" wheels and have found a couple that have the following:

• Wheel Size: 17x8.5
• Bolt Pattern: 6x135
• Backspace: 5.00
• Offset: 6mm
• Max Load: 2750
• Center Bore: 87.1mm

or a backspacing of 4.75" and offset of 0mm

Anyone know the offset and back spacing of factory 18" wheels?

Offset and backspacing comparisons make my head hurt.

 

[Munkiebunz3]

https://www.wheel-size.com/size/ford/expedition/2016/
Says all wheels have factory offset of +44
My 20s are +44
I bought 18s with 0.
I believe offset & Backspacing would be the same measurement but one is measured from hub to outside and one is hub to inside. Offset being from the hub to the outer rim.
https://blog.tirerack.com/blog/hunters-ramblings/what-is-wheel-offset-and-backspace

Will 17s fit? I know they fit in prior years but my 18s are as close as I'm willing to go to the brake assembly .

With the wider stance of the 0mm offset the larger tire will possibly contact the outside portion of the inner fenders. Since it translates to about 33" I think you should be ok?

Per my research through the forum it appears the largest tire that fits stock wheel configuration without trimming is roughly 34.07" x 10.83". Math this early on a Saturday hurts my head.
My 35x12.5 & 0 offset needed a good amount of fender metal to be cut in the back. I would imagine that the same would need to be done to the front bumper had I kept it.

 

[Black]

Ever taken a look at your spare tire???
The spares on our trucks are 17” wheels. So a 17 will fit just fine. Presuming backspace and off set are right.

 

[Munkiebunz3]

My spare tire was an 18.

 

[Black]

My spare tire was an 18.

Interesting. Mine is a 17” not sure why they would vary the size of the spare.
Raptors come with 17” wheels and they certainly don’t have smaller brakes than we do.

 

[AllBoostNoEco]

My wife’s Plat came with an 18” spare and mine came with a 17”, even though my truck came with 18” wheels and hers 22”. I stole hers to fit my full-size spare.
I’d definitely lean towards the highest offset you can find in a wheel you like. A 0 offset is pushing the wheel center out by nearly 1.75”, which is a lot. My 285s would definitely be outside the fender if I was using a 0 offset wheel.
If you don’t mind a matte titanium rather than bronze, Tire Rack has a 17x8.5 with a 30mm offset. Also, Detroit Wheel and Tire sells OEM Raptor wheels for $585 for a set of 4, if you’ve considered going that route.

 

[Black]

Thought something about the center hole or center cap that the Raptor wheels properly.

Having the black on the Raptor wheels powder boated bronze may not be too bad.

 

[AllBoostNoEco]

Thought something about the center hole or center cap that the Raptor wheels properly.

Having the black on the Raptor wheels powder boated bronze may not be too bad.

The center cap on OEM F-150 wheels will hit the end of the rear axle. Some cut the end of the threaded portion to fit, and I believe there was one who found he could simply clearance the caps themselves without issue. I’d be curious if our OEM caps off Expedition wheels can just pop in.

 

[shinysideup2]

My 35x12.5 & 0 offset needed a good amount of fender metal to be cut in the back. I would imagine that the same would need to be done to the front bumper had I kept it.

@Munkiebunz3 - I'm still wrestling with how to trim my fenders to clear my larger tires. Looks like you've already done this.

Do you have any photos of your rear fender trim? did you finish it off with any aftermarket fender flares?

Have you trimmed your front fenders at all? I'm getting a good amount of rub at the top of the fenders, even with some of the plastic trim (inner-most 1/2") trimmed away.