04 Navi No Start-No Crank No PWR to OBD

[Hamfisted]

I re-read your initial post. The part about the gear shift lever not unlocking. It might be worth taking a look at the ignition switch itself. I didn't see that mentioned in what you had done already. I mean the electrical part of the switch, not the keyed part. You can take the top and bottom off the column and you'll see it. It's directly across from the keyed ignition switch. Pull the plug off and try jumping it and see if at least the dash lights come on, or you can unlock the gear shift lever as you normally would (brake depressed....) . Then you can try to bump the starter from there. The switch is only about $20 at Rock Auto to replace. You tried swapping in another relay into the PCM relay slot right ?
Here's a link for the 03/04 service manual if you don't have it already:
https://spaces.hightail.com/space/hoVVsN5P2A . The ignition switch is discussed on page 754 or thereabouts ....










https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

 

[stamp11127]

Since the starter cranked the engine when you jumped 30 to 87 that tells you the high current side of the starter relay circuit is working correctly. The problem lies on the control side of the circuit. Test time to find out where you have power and where you don't in that circuit.

 

[03NavigatorGuy]

I re-read your initial post. The part about the gear shift lever not unlocking. It might be worth taking a look at the ignition switch itself. I didn't see that mentioned in what you had done already. I mean the electrical part of the switch, not the keyed part. You can take the top and bottom off the column and you'll see it. It's directly across from the keyed ignition switch. Pull the plug off and try jumping it and see if at least the dash lights come on, or you can unlock the gear shift lever as you normally would (brake depressed....) . Then you can try to bump the starter from there. The switch is only about $20 at Rock Auto to replace. You tried swapping in another relay into the PCM relay slot right ?
Here's a link for the 03/04 service manual if you don't have it already:
https://spaces.hightail.com/space/hoVVsN5P2A . The ignition switch is discussed on page 754 or thereabouts ....










https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700



[/QUO

Yes, I have replaced all relays with known good relays to rule them out. I have the steering column panels off already. Do you know which pins I need to jump?

 

[Hamfisted]

Yes, I have replaced all relays with known good relays to rule them out. I have the steering column panels off already. Do you know which pins I need to jump?

Well, 4 is hot at all times, that's your supply line. 6 is your "run" line ( will give you dash lights...). 7 is your crank line when you want to start it. I wouldn't start it this way, but you can just check that things light up like they're supposed to when you jump 4 to 6 . The rest is up to you. If the dash lights come on when you jump 4 to 6 but they didn't before, I'd say your ignition switch is just bad. They're cheap.

 

[ahiggins420]

I have a 07 expedition that had a simular problem a few years back. It was parked running fine and just cut off. Would not crank, I can't remember if the windows or what other electrical stuff would or wouldn't work. The obd had no power to it. Took it to local mechanic who works on nothing but ford trucks and at first he thought it was the instrument cluster. Stayed in shop for a month and he found out it was a bad PCM. He replaced it with a used one and it has ran fine ever since. It happened around 100k miles and now has 170k.

 

[rjdelp7]

Youtube 'south main auto'. He did a video on a similar year ford f-150. He found a melted relay in the passenger compartment fuse box. It is a common problem.

 

[03NavigatorGuy]

Well, 4 is hot at all times, that's your supply line. 6 is your "run" line ( will give you dash lights...). 7 is your crank line when you want to start it. I wouldn't start it this way, but you can just check that things light up like they're supposed to when you jump 4 to 6 . The rest is up to you. If the dash lights come on when you jump 4 to 6 but they didn't before, I'd say your ignition switch is just bad. They're cheap.

This is what I found. The wire to pin 4 is hot as it should be. When I jump 4 to 6, nothing happens, when I jump 4 to 7 nothing happens.

When I was testing the pins, I found that when I touched pin 1 with the tester light it caused the ignition switch to buzz, but nothing else occurred that I could tell!

 

[03NavigatorGuy]

Youtube 'south main auto'. He did a video on a similar year ford f-150. He found a melted relay in the passenger compartment fuse box. It is a common problem.

Yes, I like his videos, and I watched THAT video, even before posting here, as I was hopeful it would be helpful, but unlike him, I had already checked my fuses and relays PRIOR to starting any other investigating. It is so common a problem, I was sorta surprised neither he, and apparently, the other shop the F150 came from didn't check them first, or at least check them at some point, but nobody is perfect, certainly not me!

 

[03NavigatorGuy]

Since the starter cranked the engine when you jumped 30 to 87 that tells you the high current side of the starter relay circuit is working correctly. The problem lies on the control side of the circuit. Test time to find out where you have power and where you don't in that circuit.

I am ready to do that, I have done some, but PLEASE point me in the direction you'd go, and I will follow that lead for sure.

 

[stamp11127]

Go back over reply #17, all the steps on how to test are there. The test light will provide a path to ground and complete the circuit to that point. When you get to a point where there isn't power, the test light will not light and the problem will be located between the last place you did have power and the spot you are currently testing.

You can change the order of the test points if you would like. If you start by pulling the starter relay and probing 86 in the relay socket, you should have battery voltage at that point when the ign switch is in "start" and the trans is in neutral or park. If not, then the problem is before the starter relay. Repeat test while whiggling the shifter.