Rear a/c leak

[08navigator]

Hello everyone! I'm new to the forum and hoping to learn from you folks about our newly bought 2008 navigator. She has 124k miles and besides a few issues appears to be a great vehicle.

I'll break down the possible a/c leak
I test drove the car on a 94 degree super humid day. The AC was set at 60 and was blowing slightly cold but definitely not working correctly. I figured a 10 year old vehicle, it probably need evacuated and recharged.

After buying it it no longer was cold at all and just blows hot air. I noticed right by my rear passenger tire it appeared I had green coolant leaking out. I ran the heat and truck after cleaning up the small leak and no coolant ever reappeared.

After contemplating this I came to the conclusion that it was probably my refrigerant leaking out with some pag oil/green dye. This would make sense since it's no longer blowing cold. So the good news is that it seems my compressor works but I do have a leak.

Is there a condensate drain right at the rear passenger wheel? If it's leaking out of there it would be my rear evaporator leaking correct? If not, it's probably the rear ac line somewhere.

Any input is much appreciated!

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[08navigator]

Sorry I just realized there's a dedicated ac/heat section. I'll repost over there.

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(That thread has been deleted since it did not have any replies.)

 

[gixer2000]

Yes there is a condensate drain back there. It could be the evap but also could just be the connections from the lines to the evap. Your best bet is to remove the panels and do a visual inspection.

 

[08navigator]

Thank you gixer2000. I'll be swapping the air ride for coil overs today so I'll get a better look at that drain. My air ride is dead so it's tough to get under there.

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[Dennis_H]

I just had to get a line replaced because the frame and line were barely touching and had rubbed a hole in the line heading to he rear unit. I think it had been that way for a long time. There was a flat spot on the line where it had finally worn through. May want to verify all those areas where it runs are properly secured.

 

[08navigator]

Good call Dennis I'll check it out. I assume the new line is super pricey?

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[08navigator]

Update:. I found the rear condensate drain and the leaking dye is not near it. The drain is right next to where the AC and coolant lines curve into the rear cabin but my leak is right next to the passenger rear suspension just above the frame rail. I assume there's a pinhole in one of the refrigerant lines right there.

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[Dennis_H]

Good call Dennis I'll check it out. I assume the new line is super pricey?

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Yeah, I could only find it from Ford and the line itself was about $300. Had to remove a bunch of stuff to route it, Exhaust manifolds, rear transmission mount, etc. Had my mechanic do it instead of tackling that one.

 

[08navigator]

Dennia, how much did he charge?

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[Dennis_H]

Dennia, how much did he charge?

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I don't 100% remember since I had a couple other things done while it was waiting, but somewhere around $900 I think. I was there and saw everything off. Not a fun job and took 3 days to get the part.

 

[jimz]

My 2008 Expedition had a hole rubbed in the A/C line to the rear. I'm not sure exactly where. Ford was going to charge almost $500. I went to local mechanic and for just under $175 (I think that is what is was) the line was repaired. How he did it I was told was to splice the line where all Ford would do was install a complete factory line. Easy Peasey repair the mechanic said.

 

[08navigator]

Jimz thank you for that. I think I'll try that first. I don't see how that wouldn't work!

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[Dennis_H]

My 2008 Expedition had a hole rubbed in the A/C line to the rear. I'm not sure exactly where. Ford was going to charge almost $500. I went to local mechanic and for just under $175 (I think that is what is was) the line was repaired. How he did it I was told was to splice the line where all Ford would do was install a complete factory line. Easy Peasey repair the mechanic said.

Was it the high pressure or low pressure side? I think splicing the high side may be an issue, but certainly worth a shot if it works.

 

[jimz]

Was it the high pressure or low pressure side? I think splicing the high side may be an issue, but certainly worth a shot if it works.

Not sure where the leak was, high or low. All I know is he found the hole, maybe with leak detector?, then cut damage out, added flare nuts and reflared tubes. Then a male x male fitting to rejoin his damage. That has been a couple years ago and no leaks or need to recharge.

Sorry for long time before post.

 

[08navigator]

I found the leak! What do you guys think? Should I splice it with the dorman 3/8" ac line kit or braze it with an aluminum rod and a mapp gas torch? It's about an inch long

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[08navigator]

It's in a bad spot so if I want to braze it I would have to use something as heat shield to keep the torch away from the coolant lines, brake line and air line going to the rear. I don't think I could get wrenches in there to splice it.

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[08navigator]

I'm thinking about buying this and covering the entire area except right where I be torching the line. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/372108157376
The system is empty. The AC worked on my test drive but not very well and stopped working by the time I bought the car. There is pag oil and green dye all over right around the hole. Is there any reason to evacuate the system before doing this? Shouldn't take but ten minutes once I have the torch, aluminum rod and fire blanket

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[East-TN]

Have you priced what a replacement line would cost? Depending on how long you plan to keep the vehicle would be a big determining factor on $$ you want to spend.

 

[1955moose]

I'm with 17 limited. I'd replace the line, and maybe put something behind the area that it's rubbing against. A hunk of foam, or maybe an old piece of bicycle/motorcycle inner tube. I looked into it and R134 freon is not flammable, but definitely evacuate if you going to attempt brazing. If the crack is small enough, why not use JB weld around the crack. I've had good luck with it in the past.

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[gixer2000]

Getting wrenches up there or brazing would stink. Also Its so close to the bend a splice just wouldn't happen.

I personally would try to find a replacement line even if its from a junk yard.

I've successfully repaired aluminum on plenty of AC systems but the aluminum is pretty thin and really takes some work. plus trying not to over heat the piping and you have all the other junk around it.

Thats being said if its a suction line(low pressure) you may want to try a 2 part epoxy as a temp solution. Ive done it on many low pressure systems to buy some time but never attempted it on a vehicle.