no start, not fuse box

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stamp11127

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The ignition system is a different circuit than the starting circuit. Focus on one issue at a time.
 
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punisher1130

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UPDATE: I finally got the time to mess with it, messing with the wires yielded nothing but we got it to start after removing and putting all the relays back, guessing they got jarred during shipping but it now lives, kinda. the problem now is that the new relay is already starting to get burnt and fail. other than it being a ford thing, what is the cause of this and how do I stop it?
 

Habbibie

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You have a wiring issue... a new relay burning it this early tells me you've got a wiring issue, I dont k ow if cars use overloads & thermal switches outside the fuses but if they do you wouldn't be burning up relays but accusing they dont then all road will lead bad to either a poor wiring connection somewhere or you've got a few broken strands within a wire causing a low voltage somewhere... I'll wait to see what more experienced 12 VDC guys ha r to say about this....
 

stamp11127

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1) what indications are there to verify a burning relay?

2) heated/burnt connections are due to excessive current flow through them.

3) this is a common issue with this year.

4) fairly easy fix if you have soldering skills and tools.

5) if you know of anyone with a meter and DC Amp clamp it would be nice to measure the current draw on that circuit.
 

1955moose

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I'm confused, you stated in your last post that you removed and replaced all the relays and it started. I thought 2003 had soldered in relays, in particular the one for the fuel pump. If it were me, I'd have my old fuse box resoldered and get rid of that new one. I think your chasing your tail with that new fuse box. I'd also real slowly look over everything involving the wires and plugs going up to the fuse box. From what you described that's where I'd concentrate. Their are services online that can rebuild, resolder your old one if you don't want to monkey with it.

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MWguns

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1st post: All it does is crank and that's it.

6th post: It's a '03 5.4L and it was the one in the kick panel and yes it was identical to the original, made sure of that before I bought it. New or used? Same part #s?

I do hear the fuel pump kick on like it should but I cant test fuel at the engine or spark since it wont even crank, everything turns off like it should to start but no crank or anything just dead silence other than the fuse box making its noise ...
doesn't need to be running to check fuel pressure
Now it isn't cranking but in your first post it was?
Fuse box making noise? They don't make noise other than light clicking as the relays turn on/off.

Without seeing the part #'s for both boxes you have the same symptoms other members have had when they switch to the wrong central junction box. Even though they look the same there are internal wiring differences that make them specific to individual models/years.
Exactly what i was going to say. It HAS GOT TO BE an expy that is the same model, made same EXACT YEAR, but do remember, if it is a build date of 06-12/2003 (mm/yyyy) its considered a 2004.
 

1955moose

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This is why I told him to rebuild his old one. All it takes is one thing different and zappo! He would litterealy have to take apart new, and old ones and compare everything. Why does Ford do this crap. I can understand changing from year to year for improvement, but twice in same year. I used to deal with this working on Honda motorcycles in the early to mid 70's. Had to bring Vin # Everytime I bought parts for customers bikes. A real pain, when you were buying parts for 3 or more bikes at a time.

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1955moose

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The younger generation live, on their iPhones and computers to watch useless drivel, but when we try to help them fix their SUVs they can't be bothered. I've said it before, it's flat out rude. I blame it on the parents. See what happens when you can no longer spank your child. They have no respect. No consequences, ooh take away their video games. When I messed up as a child, I couldn't sit to play my video games! Actually it was the Tv, but you get it.

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stamp11127

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I take exception to the drivel comment. YouTube has plenty of educational videos - Idiots At Work, Idiot Truck Drivers, Car Crashes In America, Active Self Protection, plus many more including the crazy Russian drivers......
 

1955moose

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Its a sad world we live in that so many like watching crashes and pain. Watching Nascar or Indy racing is mind numbing without a couple of crashes, and sheet metal flying everywhere.

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punisher1130

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For the record I'm 30, haven't turned wrenches for a paycheck in 10+ years, I'm a truck driver so my time do work on her truck is limited and I am used to working on old cars that made sense, computers and electrical work is not my strong suit and I am man enough to admit that which is why I ask for help. As for the relay burning, its not any of the soldered ones, its the white one at the top right closest to the door jam. I know its burning cause we shut it off for a bit but when we went to start it back up it started clicking again, pulled the relay and the middle prong as showing melted plastic at the prongs base but when we put it back it started right up. I did go back and double check all my part numbers and everything and all numbers matched so I know I got the right one for her truck.

As for ford messing things up, in my eyes, ford became garbage in the 90's when they started filling the cars with computers, the ones before 1990 were awesome but all that is besides the point, I just want to help my aunt and get her tuck back to a reliable state so it can be used again or traded in for something else.
 

1955moose

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Well their you are! Sorry but we get a lot of dine and dashers here. As a regular contributing member we get a little miffed when we put out our time/effort, and the op disappears. We're glad your back, and let's figure this one out if you've got the time, and possibly patience to figure out your problem. In the future always post that your job takes you away, we understand.

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Habbibie

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This thread is confusing, takes too many sudden turns and replies take a week at a time to come back.

I'm unwatching/unsubscribing from this thread.

OP good luck fixing her tuck.
 

1955moose

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Henry these threads are always like this. You and I have seen at least 30 or more over the past 4 years. It's just part of the flakienest that you get on a free forum or newspaper, or internet. Their will be more.

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stamp11127

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This is for the OP and future readers. It is very important to answer all the questions the members ask. A few are still unanswered. If you don't answer then we give up trying to help fix your issue. Should you not understand the question just ask for clarification.

It seems that the Expy is running now by your last post but still has the same problem, possibly new ones that appeared with the rebuilt(new) box. Until you address the higher current draw in the fuel pump circuit you will continue to have fuel pump relay issues.

To address the fuel pump issues you need to measure voltage at the fuel pump or voltage drop(vd) on the circuit. If you want to proceed you will need a decent digital voltmeter, sewing pins (for probing connectors) and for vd testing, about 15-20 feet of 12/14 gauge primary wire. I would start with just voltage measurements.
 
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punisher1130

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My apologies Moose I thought I mentioned my job keeps me away, I do understand the dine and dasher aspect but that isn't me and trust me when I say I do try and follow all advise given, granted I may forget to reply on them but non of it goes on deaf ears.

Stamp as of right now the expo is running but is currently sitting at my companies yard, the benefit of that is I could ask our shop for the supplies needed to test the fuel pump. I still have my tools from when I was a mechanic, they are just in storage so I will have to dig out my voltmeter on my next home time and see what I can find out. Also if I still haven't answered questions on info still needed, ask me again and I will answer the best I can.
 

1955moose

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Punisher understand about lot of work and little time, but how did you plan to move forward if you don't have the tools or time. We want to help, but it's frustrating when a member asks for help like their going to be the one fixing their vehicle, and then it just sits. We always here love to see a happy ending. Hate to see vehicles end up in the bone yard. I guess when you get to your tools and time to repair, follow up on Stamps troubleshooting steps and report back. Hopefully it's something simple, usually is.

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stamp11127

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Update on the voltage check:
Take the initial fuel pump circuit readings at the sjb. I insert sewing pins in the backside of the plug so that the sewing pin makes contact with the wire connector and is wedged between the plug wall and connector pin. This method avoids piercing the wire insulation.
If you have low voltage coming out of the sjb, the problem is the box. If you have source voltage then the problem is farther down the harness. Then measure voltage to the pump.
 
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