Rebuild Top End or New Engine 183,000

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brcknrdg Rob

brcknrdg Rob

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I’d do the timing job and drive on, parts are cheap if you do it yourself. Tasca Ford or Amazon. If you aren’t looking to do the work yourself it may be better to do a new crate engine or new truck because shop rates are high for this job. Granted some shops are fair but you have to find the right one.

One 6.0 will cost you more than 2 rebuilds on your 5.4 lol. RUN!

It sounds like you guys neglected the engine for a while now. In that case I’d base my decision on inspection underneath the passenger valve cover. Check the cam towers and caps for any deep or excessive scoring. If it’s in good shape and sludge free go for the timing job. If it’s sludged and scored button back up and order an engine. Or a truck. That call can only be made by seeing inside the passenger head which is last on the oil feed.
Thank you for your advice, we have serviced at all intervals for the most part and to date we have only needed to replace 1 battery and 1 water pump which has gotten us to 183000 miles. I'm not sure where the severe lack of maintenance is coming from. I think a few problems at nearly 200000 miles is warranted. We are the second owners and have cared for it greatly for the last 120000 miles.

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brcknrdg Rob

brcknrdg Rob

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I don't get your lingo, leave out the cute BS and ask the question
Sorry bud, I was using terms that are common in other areas and did not realize they would be hard to understand or easily agitate some individuals. I will do better to be more formal in the future while asking for help. I apologize for any added stress this may have caused. I was referring to the Cam phase position sensor. I am used to calling anything factory joined as mated. Letting off the juice would be another way to say stop giving it gas or letting off the gas pedal. All things readily understood in other forums. I know no though that I should become more educated in the proper vernacular for this one.

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brcknrdg Rob

brcknrdg Rob

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Having owned a 6.0, avoid the 6.0. I could have bought my truck (used purchase price) for cash with the money I dumped into engine rebuilds on the 6.0. Yes, plural, in only 245k miles.

Having done all the upgrades and enhancements for reliability, there is no such thing as a "bulletproof" 6.0. A diesel that requires major work every 100k miles is absurd. The power is phenomenal when it's running right but it's rarely in that state for long and it's a bear to work on.

Just fair warning -- moving from the 6.0 to the Expedition was the best financial decision I've made in ages.
I have a 6.0 in my e350, I have it set on a tow haul tune after having it semi bulletproof and am happy with it. I did spend the $8000 on which is alot but I love the driving the damn thing, when it runs right as it has for the last 5 years since it was done. If I do go for one in the excursion I will definitely take the time to find one that has been cared for. I do appreciate your advice and definitely understand your thoughts on them. Would you recommend the 7.3 then? I just really don't want the v10. Thanks again your advice is usually solid

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07navi

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I have a 6.0 in my e350, I have it set on a tow haul tune after having it semi bulletproof and am happy with it. I did spend the $8000 on which is alot but I love the driving the damn thing, when it runs right as it has for the last 5 years since it was done. If I do go for one in the excursion I will definitely take the time to find one that has been cared for. I do appreciate your advice and definitely understand your thoughts on them. Would you recommend the 7.3 then? I just really don't want the v10. Thanks again your advice is usually solid

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7.3's are supposed to be bulletproof but I really liked my v-10 in the Ex.
 

rjdelp7

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Whelp! the CPPS has become prevelant on our 09' what used to be a bucket of bolts in a washing machine when letting off the juice while backing up an incline is now happening while pulling into my driveway. I had the oil changed last week and noticed they OF'd it and am going to see if having proper oil level has anyhting to do with it. I have tried to talk the nagivator into a new vehicle to no avail since we have had so many memorable adventures in this one. We are now contemplating whether to redo the top end components and suspension/steering refreshening or a complete crate motor swap now and suspension later. Can you guys weigh in on which one is more ideal? Which is better unmating the drivetrain or rocket surgery. How far should we go if its the latter?
OK...What is CPPS? ', 'used to be a bucket of bolts in washing machine? 'letting off the juice(electricity)backing up an incline...huh? , 'noticed they OF'd it?, 'tried to talk to the navigator'...wtf?, unmating(not a word) the drive train or rocket surgery(what the hell is that?). I guess engines are 'mated' to the gearbox, but not for life. They are attached with bolts and come apart.
 

mjp2

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I have a 6.0 in my e350, I have it set on a tow haul tune after having it semi bulletproof and am happy with it. I did spend the $8000 on which is alot but I love the driving the damn thing, when it runs right as it has for the last 5 years since it was done. If I do go for one in the excursion I will definitely take the time to find one that has been cared for. I do appreciate your advice and definitely understand your thoughts on them. Would you recommend the 7.3 then? I just really don't want the v10. Thanks again your advice is usually solid

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Despite making less power the 7.3 is the better motor. Sellers know it too, so expect to pay a premium if you find one. Also keep in mind that it's going to be an older truck and will likely need a refresh. Suspension and steering links are easy and cheap but turbos and injectors don't last forever and tend to be pricey on a diesel, as I'm sure you know. Wear on those items usually results in the keep it/sell it decision when the time comes.

I appreciate that many ownership frustrations can be a matter of perspective. A week after I sold my 6.0 one of the glow plugs failed. The buyer's attitude was "I bought a high mileage truck so it's expected that stuff will need to be fixed", whereas if I were still the owner I'd have been furious as it would have been yet another failure a month after replacing the driveshaft and a week after replacing the IPR valve.

All that said, if you're already familiar and happy with a 6.0 then there's no reason to avoid getting another one. I just strongly advise against them for the uninitiated because they can be a bear to maintain from both a labor and cost perspective.
 

07navi

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OK...What is CPPS? ', 'used to be a bucket of bolts in washing machine? 'letting off the juice(electricity)backing up an incline...huh? , 'noticed they OF'd it?, 'tried to talk to the navigator'...wtf?, unmating(not a word) the drive train or rocket surgery(what the hell is that?). I guess engines are 'mated' to the gearbox, but not for life. They are attached with bolts and come apart.
Yea, his stuff was mated but they broke up, and he spun the N.T D. before slipping the H.W. T and juiced the D.W.T........I got it..............lol
 
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brcknrdg Rob

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Yea, his stuff was mated but they broke up, and he spun the N.T D. before slipping the H.W. T and juiced the D.W.T........I got it..............lol
They have not divorced yet

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Yeah I seen that episode of Jerry springer....

Go big or trader in. I was looking at the new crate 7.3 Godzilla and everyone can try to say they can bulletproof the 5.4 there are some design flaws that this new 7.3 have moved into the new age level of quality from the blue oval.

Then you have the rest of the vehicle, can you maintain the chasis. What about the tranny? I found a 4x4 complete complete 5.0 coyote with 10 speed harness and ecu. I am looking to keep my 2013 for 10 more years or so. I would like to set for towing and would like to achieve around 500ftlbs of torque. A procharger is gonna be 6G. 7.3 will probably be 10G once all said and done. Full out coyote drive train swap with 10 speed tans 8G. Or provided the chassis is good and your good with nuts and bolts get the OEM remanufactured engine and trans with the "warranty" and swap the cores.
 

JExpedition07

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Yeah I seen that episode of Jerry springer....

Go big or trader in. I was looking at the new crate 7.3 Godzilla and everyone can try to say they can bulletproof the 5.4 there are some design flaws that this new 7.3 have moved into the new age level of quality from the blue oval.

Then you have the rest of the vehicle, can you maintain the chasis. What about the tranny? I found a 4x4 complete complete 5.0 coyote with 10 speed harness and ecu. I am looking to keep my 2013 for 10 more years or so. I would like to set for towing and would like to achieve around 500ftlbs of torque. A procharger is gonna be 6G. 7.3 will probably be 10G once all said and done. Full out coyote drive train swap with 10 speed tans 8G. Or provided the chassis is good and your good with nuts and bolts get the OEM remanufactured engine and trans with the "warranty" and swap the cores.

There are no design flaws with the 5.4 Triton once you replace the oil pump and tensioners with the updated service parts. The 5.0 makes less torque with less meat under the curve everywhere under 4K RPM. It isn’t until the high revs it ramps up torque. It can’t compete with the 4.1” stroke of the 5.4L for low end grunt. Much more top end horsepower and a faster more modern engine for sure, but it ain’t moving a trailer out of the hole like the 5.4 can.
 
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