AC Questions.

[Mmart]

What’s up everyone,
So I have a 2010 EB and I just found that it has a slow refrigerant leak on the long AC lines heading to the rear. I say slow because I had it charged early last summer at the local shop and they did the dye test but couldn’t locate a leak then. It worked all last year and it’s been “ok” this year up until last weekend when I decided to take it back. When it was on the lift he had me come take a look and there is a spot with some dye under the passenger side rear door. Long story short, he didn’t think it was something he’d tackle at the shop.
So here’s the questions just to help me get my head around it. If the rear line is where the leak is, does keeping the rear AC off help in any way? I know there is only a single compressor but not sure if the zones are split by anything mechanical other than the air vents/fans. Secondly, has anyone ever repaired the line itself? I don’t mean replace, I’ve seen some compression fitting kits, just trying to gauge if it’s worth pursuing. Replacing the line set looks like it could be pricey and I could live with having to charge it yearly if it lasted but I’m sure the leak will get worse so I’m trying to weigh my options.
Any input is appreciated, Thx

 

[Dennis_H]

Had the same issue. Line had gotten a hole rubbed in it from the frame. Had them replace the line. Pretty expensive. If you can find a way to put in a splice, that would be great. Not sure how to do that. Was a big job to do. Had to pull transmission mount to get it in there.

 

[07navi]

I spliced mine (sold on ebay) and it worked fine 5 years and then I sold it. The line cost $1,000 and came in 2 pieces (Excursion). No way of shutting off back part unless you get the rear block off kit (ebay).

 

[Mmart]

Had the same issue. Line had gotten a hole rubbed in it from the frame. Had them replace the line. Pretty expensive. If you can find a way to put in a splice, that would be great. Not sure how to do that. Was a big job to do. Had to pull transmission mount to get it in there.

The guy at the local shop showed me all he had to do just to get the line out and then said the labor alone is already high $ and he didn’t even shop the part. I looked up the parts on my own and they were both (hi and lo) around $300 a piece. I’d like to just fix the line if I could. I’ve done enough plumbing to be comfortable with that but I’m not familiar with the coolant portion of the job nor do I have the right tools other than a gauge from a can of ACPro. Have to do some research before I end up costing myself more money. I’m assuming you’d have to empty the system first? Filling it back up correctly is where my knowledge drops off here.

 

[riphip]

Empty/reclaim system, repair/replace leak/line, replace accumulator/drier, pressurize, check for leaks, empty system again, pull vacuum, fill system (adding back correct amount of lost oil) to correct amount of refrigerant, check for leaks again. In that order.

 

[Mmart]

That sounds easier than it probably is lol. I’m assuming a repair manual would have all the in between details on how those procedures need to be done. Who makes the most detailed? I use Clymer and Haynes for my motorcycle. Are there some specific tools required for this as well besides the gauges?

 

[07navi]

That sounds easier than it probably is lol. I’m assuming a repair manual would have all the in between details on how those procedures need to be done. Who makes the most detailed? I use Clymer and Haynes for my motorcycle. Are there some specific tools required for this as well besides the gauges?

Splice the line and have a shop suck it down and refill.

 

[Mmart]

Splice the line and have a shop suck it down and refill.

Ok, that actually sounds like a better approach. I’m hoping this last refill will hold out for at least the rest of the summer

 

[07navi]

Ok, that actually sounds like a better approach. I’m hoping this last refill will hold out for at least the rest of the summer

You might want to throw a can of refrigerant in it if it starts getting warm.

 

[barrydu4]

If you can get to it repair it with a flare union. I've used these before in refrigeration repairs.

 

[Mmart]

Since having it serviced it’s like ice. Hoping it holds through the heat for the next month or so. If I do fix the line myself, I’m waiting for the fall. Because of all that’s going on I probably won’t be going back to my office for a long time so I will have more free time to work on it.

 

[Mmart]

If you can get to it repair it with a flare union. I've used these before in refrigeration repairs.

I need to get under there and see just what I’m dealing with. When the truck was on the lift I could see where the die leaked out but that just gave me a general area.

 

[07navi]

If you can get to it repair it with a flare union. I've used these before in refrigeration repairs.

I will do that next time, I fell for the ones on ebay last time. There was a pin hole near the back and that tubing went from the front all the way to the back and it was put in before they put the body on. It's been 5 years and still holding pressure. Just a new tubing was $1,000 plus draw down and refill.

 

[07navi]

I need to get under there and see just what I’m dealing with. When the truck was on the lift I could see where the die leaked out but that just gave me a general area.

Mine hade dye in it already otherwise I never would have found the pin hole.

 

[91fox]

Hi everyone, not sure with what you're dealing with (diameter of this line, or if it's a straight length) but here's an image of a a/c line splice. It's made by dorman and they have different sizes.

 

[07navi]

Hi everyone, not sure with what you're dealing with (diameter of this line, or if it's a straight length) but here's an image of a a/c line splice. It's made by dorman and they have different sizes.

View attachment 37455

Mine was something like that but Dorman is high priced nowadays, look in Ebay. Next time I think I will just cut the line and use a flare fitting like described above.

 

[Goofy173]

Has everyone forgot there is refrigerant stop leak? It will work on small Leaks.

I do my own refrigerant work on my vehicles but I would try stop leak first. I've had it work a few times.

 

[Mmart]

Has everyone forgot there is refrigerant stop leak? It will work on small Leaks.

I do my own refrigerant work on my vehicles but I would try stop leak first. I've had it work a few times.

My mechanic is as bald as Telly Savalas and said that stop leak works about as good as all the “regrow hair” treatments he’s looked at over the years. Personally I’m not opposed to go that route just haven’t heard much positive feedback on it. Same goes for radiator stop leak and engine as well.

 

[fuzzmanmatt]

StopLeak works great in microholes in things like the evaporator and condenser, but sucks on any holes that are actually big enough to see.

 

[07navi]

StopLeak works great in microholes in things like the evaporator and condenser, but sucks on any holes that are actually big enough to see.

It didn't work on my pinhole so I spliced it.