AKentPhoto
Full Access Members
Just got an email that the JLT won’t ship til mid October... Any other can to check out?
For Those Who Don't Think a Catch Can is Needed on Gen 4 s...
- Thread starter Expedition Dave
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
wakeboarder
Full Access Members
I think the correct JLT part number is 3016P. It wasn’t intuitive to find on their website at the time. It has the bracket that mounts the can near the battery. Mine listed a September 18th ship date.
jparadee
Member
I purchase a UPR Dual Valve catch can from my '17 Expy. My son also purchased the same one for his 2014 F150. Easy install. I get lots of liquid out of my every other week when i drive it lots. I usually drain it when I get gas.
Only mod I made was a valve on the bottom and a plastic hose to get the drain out of the engine bay.
Only mod I made was a valve on the bottom and a plastic hose to get the drain out of the engine bay.
Sunflowergirl
Full Access Members
Most of it is moisture and fuel.
NASCAR Mike
Full Access Members
The JKWest, which brand / model # did you use for your 2007 Expy? I have a 2008 Expy with 91k miles and I would love to put one on her too.
NASCAR Mike
Full Access Members
What brand / model # are you using on your 07 Expy? I want to add one to my 08 Expy.
Wangle
Full Access Members
After much study, I decided to go with the JLT for my 2018. She only has 7500 miles, so hopefully I caught it early enough. She will be in our family until she crumbles into dust, so my rationale is that at worst I will keep my intake cleaner for no reason. At best I could save a couple of head replacements or cleanings and have a better running engine long term. Total was under $200 with the can extension. When installed I couldn’t get the engine cover to sit right with the hose routed from the PCV toward the passenger side. There just isn’t room for that hose. Then I noticed on the bottom of the engine cover there was an “imprint“ of the PCV connector and hose going toward the front of the engine. This is how the original hose is routed, toward the intake. So I tried routing the JLT hose forward, and I found the clearance I needed to properly seat the engine cover. I made a small half moon cut on the front of the engine cover to accommodate the hose. The rest of the install was very easy. I then did a 250 mile trip towing a 2000 pound covered trailer. With a drumroll and an audience I pulled the catch can and... not a drop! I verified the hoses were routed the correct way, then felt the screen of the oil separator and I did get a haze of oil on my finger. I won’t check it again for at least 1k !!
Big thanks to all the recommendations and input on this topic. And a shout out to JLT. I was very impressed with the manufacturing quality of this item, and their outstanding communication.
Big thanks to all the recommendations and input on this topic. And a shout out to JLT. I was very impressed with the manufacturing quality of this item, and their outstanding communication.
wakeboarder
Full Access Members
wakeboarder
Full Access Members
I’m not very familiar with turbocharged engines. One thing I noticed was the passenger side PCV system dumps directly into the intake manifold. The intake manifold is pressurized when boosting. I think this means that the passenger side is only effective when the turbos are not boosting.
It looked like there may be another PCV system on the drivers side. It connects on the intake side of the turbo, thus it would always have some vacuum. I also noticed an electrical connector on the hose. Does this open up a valve when there is boost being developed to allow crankcase pressure to be vented?
The one on the passenger side should be able to develop more vacuum when not boosting due to it being after the throttle plate.
Does this sound correct? If so then it seems like somebody who is mostly cruising (not boosting) will collect the most from the passenger side. Those towing (constantly boosting) may collect more from a catch can on the drivers side.
Drivers side PCV?
It looked like there may be another PCV system on the drivers side. It connects on the intake side of the turbo, thus it would always have some vacuum. I also noticed an electrical connector on the hose. Does this open up a valve when there is boost being developed to allow crankcase pressure to be vented?
The one on the passenger side should be able to develop more vacuum when not boosting due to it being after the throttle plate.
Does this sound correct? If so then it seems like somebody who is mostly cruising (not boosting) will collect the most from the passenger side. Those towing (constantly boosting) may collect more from a catch can on the drivers side.
Drivers side PCV?Wangle
Full Access Members
Well, no, but it’s the same idea. I think yours looks better! My objective was to get the engine cover to be in the same position that it was in prior to the catch can installation. I ran the PCV tube forward, toward the radiator. It seem to clear everything underneath the engine cover, but as it routed underneath the front lip of the cover it pushed up on it slightly. I can post a picture tomorrow. My modification shows, and criss-crosses the hoses. Yours would not show, with better more sensical routing. Does the cover sit flat now?
Big H
Full Access Members
I just got the URP / 5Star tuning one, but it says I need to drill a hole in my charge pipe. Anyone have experience with this for the expy or using it?
It looks a bit complicated for a simple catch can install. Any input is appreciated.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It looks a bit complicated for a simple catch can install. Any input is appreciated.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
wakeboarder
Full Access Members
It almost sits flat. There is a little pressure on the cover, but not much.
I also wrapped one of the hoses in rubber to protect it. I’ll give it another month and then inspect it.
The UPR kit is MUCH more involved, and overkill in my opinion. It will catch more than the JLT, but at a much higher price tag, and more invasive install.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Big H
Full Access Members
Totally agree, but I already ordered it not knowing about the drilling piece. So what I will do is not drill my charge pipe but order the S&B intake from them and drill the intake pipe. This way I can clean it easily and not have to worry about damaging factory components or have to remove anything. Gonna set me back $1500 for this whole set up, but I guess I’ll just go through with it now. Overkill and all LoL.
Thank you for the feedback [mention]LokiWolf [/mention]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sounds like an excellent plan! I think you will be happy with it over all! Not really heard any complaints from the kit once installed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
MxRacer965
Full Access Members
i have an oil analysis from my first 5K miles, haven’t hit 10K yet. Someone want to donate a JLT can (lol) I’d be happy to do analysis after my 10K change!
has anyone yet done before and after oil analysis? Per Fozzy’s ask.
also, what is the right minimum interval to be checking/emptying the catch cans (either kit)? I thought I had seen a post saying they empty it every 2-3 weeks. (Suggesting that installing a catch can and then missing emptying it frequently enough will result in no benefit.)
why do the kits not seem high enough capacity to not need emptying for a routine 5k mile oil change interval.
thx all!
So a bit of Clarity...
A catch can will have ZERO change on the analysis of your oil. The point it to prevent gunk from entering intake and leading to buildup on the intake valves and surrounding area. The oil vapor is the issue, not other things ending up in the oil.
There are supposedly some oil formulations that minimize the buildup. Not sure how, haven't investigated the chemistry of it. I know some Audi/VW guys running one of them, and they say they have seen a difference in buildup.
Check interval should be based on miles, environment, and use case. I can easily go the oil change interval in the Summer, in the winter, because of additional water vapor, it is close. This is based on my previous 3 EB power vehicles. Idling will increase the vapor. Hard accel seems to increase what is being collected also.
If you are doing a bunch of miles or a bunch of idling, then the time interval will be shorter.
Hope that helps!
A catch can will have ZERO change on the analysis of your oil. The point it to prevent gunk from entering intake and leading to buildup on the intake valves and surrounding area. The oil vapor is the issue, not other things ending up in the oil.
There are supposedly some oil formulations that minimize the buildup. Not sure how, haven't investigated the chemistry of it. I know some Audi/VW guys running one of them, and they say they have seen a difference in buildup.
Check interval should be based on miles, environment, and use case. I can easily go the oil change interval in the Summer, in the winter, because of additional water vapor, it is close. This is based on my previous 3 EB power vehicles. Idling will increase the vapor. Hard accel seems to increase what is being collected also.
If you are doing a bunch of miles or a bunch of idling, then the time interval will be shorter.
Hope that helps!
So you don’t think any of that vapor and oil or extra vapor and oil blows by the rings with the fuel without one? On our turbocharged SxS they may not have the same knock protection as the EcoBoost. With extra oil and water introduced into the cylinders it can change the effective octane rating resulting in a lower knock protection. We see a increase is dirty oil as well as the usual dirty intercooler and compressor wheel.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Similar threads
