For Those Who Don't Think a Catch Can is Needed on Gen 4 s...

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Wangle

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I think I did the same modification. Do the pictures look similar?View attachment 38363View attachment 38364
Well, no, but it’s the same idea. I think yours looks better! My objective was to get the engine cover to be in the same position that it was in prior to the catch can installation. I ran the PCV tube forward, toward the radiator. It seem to clear everything underneath the engine cover, but as it routed underneath the front lip of the cover it pushed up on it slightly. I can post a picture tomorrow. My modification shows, and criss-crosses the hoses. Yours would not show, with better more sensical routing. Does the cover sit flat now?
 

Big H

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I just got the URP / 5Star tuning one, but it says I need to drill a hole in my charge pipe. Anyone have experience with this for the expy or using it?

It looks a bit complicated for a simple catch can install. Any input is appreciated.


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wakeboarder

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Well, no, but it’s the same idea. I think yours looks better! My objective was to get the engine cover to be in the same position that it was in prior to the catch can installation. I ran the PCV tube forward, toward the radiator. It seem to clear everything underneath the engine cover, but as it routed underneath the front lip of the cover it pushed up on it slightly. I can post a picture tomorrow. My modification shows, and criss-crosses the hoses. Yours would not show, with better more sensical routing. Does the cover sit flat now?

It almost sits flat. There is a little pressure on the cover, but not much.

I also wrapped one of the hoses in rubber to protect it. I’ll give it another month and then inspect it.
 

LokiWolf

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I just got the URP / 5Star tuning one, but it says I need to drill a hole in my charge pipe. Anyone have experience with this for the expy or using it?

It looks a bit complicated for a simple catch can install. Any input is appreciated.


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The UPR kit is MUCH more involved, and overkill in my opinion. It will catch more than the JLT, but at a much higher price tag, and more invasive install.


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Big H

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The UPR kit is MUCH more involved, and overkill in my opinion. It will catch more than the JLT, but at a much higher price tag, and more invasive install.


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Totally agree, but I already ordered it not knowing about the drilling piece. So what I will do is not drill my charge pipe but order the S&B intake from them and drill the intake pipe. This way I can clean it easily and not have to worry about damaging factory components or have to remove anything. Gonna set me back $1500 for this whole set up, but I guess I’ll just go through with it now. Overkill and all LoL.

Thank you for the feedback [mention]LokiWolf [/mention]


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LokiWolf

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Totally agree, but I already ordered it not knowing about the drilling piece. So what I will do is not drill my charge pipe but order the S&B intake from them and drill the intake pipe. This way I can clean it easily and not have to worry about damaging factory components or have to remove anything. Gonna set me back $1500 for this whole set up, but I guess I’ll just go through with it now. Overkill and all LoL.

Thank you for the feedback [mention]LokiWolf [/mention]


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Sounds like an excellent plan! I think you will be happy with it over all! Not really heard any complaints from the kit once installed.


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MxRacer965

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I would like to see a 5K mile oil analyst without the catch can and then one with the catch can after another 5K.


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i have an oil analysis from my first 5K miles, haven’t hit 10K yet. Someone want to donate a JLT can (lol) I’d be happy to do analysis after my 10K change!
 

KJ-Idaho

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I would like to see a 5K mile oil analyst without the catch can and then one with the catch can after another 5K.


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has anyone yet done before and after oil analysis? Per Fozzy’s ask.

also, what is the right minimum interval to be checking/emptying the catch cans (either kit)? I thought I had seen a post saying they empty it every 2-3 weeks. (Suggesting that installing a catch can and then missing emptying it frequently enough will result in no benefit.)

why do the kits not seem high enough capacity to not need emptying for a routine 5k mile oil change interval.

thx all!
 

LokiWolf

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So a bit of Clarity...

A catch can will have ZERO change on the analysis of your oil. The point it to prevent gunk from entering intake and leading to buildup on the intake valves and surrounding area. The oil vapor is the issue, not other things ending up in the oil.

There are supposedly some oil formulations that minimize the buildup. Not sure how, haven't investigated the chemistry of it. I know some Audi/VW guys running one of them, and they say they have seen a difference in buildup.

Check interval should be based on miles, environment, and use case. I can easily go the oil change interval in the Summer, in the winter, because of additional water vapor, it is close. This is based on my previous 3 EB power vehicles. Idling will increase the vapor. Hard accel seems to increase what is being collected also.

If you are doing a bunch of miles or a bunch of idling, then the time interval will be shorter.

Hope that helps!
 

Fozzy

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So a bit of Clarity...

A catch can will have ZERO change on the analysis of your oil. The point it to prevent gunk from entering intake and leading to buildup on the intake valves and surrounding area. The oil vapor is the issue, not other things ending up in the oil.

There are supposedly some oil formulations that minimize the buildup. Not sure how, haven't investigated the chemistry of it. I know some Audi/VW guys running one of them, and they say they have seen a difference in buildup.

Check interval should be based on miles, environment, and use case. I can easily go the oil change interval in the Summer, in the winter, because of additional water vapor, it is close. This is based on my previous 3 EB power vehicles. Idling will increase the vapor. Hard accel seems to increase what is being collected also.

If you are doing a bunch of miles or a bunch of idling, then the time interval will be shorter.

Hope that helps!

So you don’t think any of that vapor and oil or extra vapor and oil blows by the rings with the fuel without one? On our turbocharged SxS they may not have the same knock protection as the EcoBoost. With extra oil and water introduced into the cylinders it can change the effective octane rating resulting in a lower knock protection. We see a increase is dirty oil as well as the usual dirty intercooler and compressor wheel.


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