Compression test 01 Navigator

[Fordgirl01]

I will be sure to keep you posted!


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[Fordgirl01]

I finally started working again on the 01 Navi today. I should probably start a new thread for the progress since this one is getting pretty old. I removed the hood to make things a bit easier this time and cleaned up the block to get ready to put the head back on. I sure hope I can remember how to reassemble it!!


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[Tommie]

Just read through this amazing thread! Please don't start a new one the info here will be great for those that need help down the road. Congrats on having the guts to tackle this and looking forward to you getting the truck running again.

Def use new head bolts and I'd use a Melling timing gear set and oil pump just to make sure that's bullet proof. I'm assuming you are using new exhaust mani studs.

 

[Fordgirl01]

I have new head bolts. I’m not comfortable replacing any of the timing stuff. I was not able to get it at TDC when I took the head off bc I had a rope stuck down in a sparkplug hole. I tried the “rope trick” to hold the valve when I took the spring off. The rope knotted up as I was trying to remove it and got hopelessly stuck in there. So I marked everything on the timing gears and chain and zip tied anything together that I could so I can hopefully get it back where it was when I took everything apart.

I never thought of replacing manifold studs. I didn’t take the manifold off of the head and the studs and nuts look to be in good shape. The vehicle is from Arizona, so the nasty rust I am used to dealing with isn’t a factor!

Thanks for the comments. At least I know the old thread is not yet irrelevant! I will keep posting here now I know someone is still reading it.


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[Fordgirl01]

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[Trainmaster]

It's pretty incredible how those manifold bolts look. Here the nuts would be indistinguishable in a 2011. They'd be just a blob of rust.

 

[Fordgirl01]

Yeah-here too! This vehicle was from Arizona, but it’s not now!!


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[riphip]

At least since you can get to the exhaust manifold nuts, remove 1 at a time, apply anti-seize & retorque nuts.

Amazingly Great Job

 

[Hamfisted]

Remember to use some assembly lube on the cam bearing surfaces and lobes to prevent a dry start up. It's good to take an oil squirt can and squirt motor oil on any moving parts too. Like the timing chains and guides, cylinder walls, rocker arms, etc.... I would leave the crankshaft position sensor unplugged and just crank the motor for a minute to get the oil pressure up and oil cavities full, before actually starting the motor. Leave the sparkplugs out until you get the heads and timing gear back together to make it easier to rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure timing is correct and there's no piston on valve interference issue. Then install and properly torque the sparkplugs. If you did not pull the drain plugs out of the sides of the block before removing the heads, you may very well have coolant in your oil pan, and this requires an oil change before ever cranking the motor. You don't want to introduce coolant into the oil passages. Drain the oil, and if you do in fact see water (it'll come out first before the oil...) spray some brake cleaner into the oil pan after you think all the oil is out, just to help flush any more water out. The brake cleaner will quickly evaporate and won't affect your new oil. I might've missed it in your previous posts, but I Melling High Volume oil pump upgrade is highly recommended too.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/lincoln,2001,navigator,5.4l+v8,1434768,engine,oil+pump,5564

 

[riphip]

Remember to use some assembly lube on the cam bearing surfaces and lobes to prevent a dry start up. It's good to take an oil squirt can and squirt motor oil on any moving parts too. Like the timing chains and guides, cylinder walls, rocker arms, etc.... I would leave the crankshaft position sensor unplugged and just crank the motor for a minute to get the oil pressure up and oil cavities full, before actually starting the motor. Leave the sparkplugs out until you get the heads and timing gear back together to make it easier to rotate the crankshaft by hand to make sure timing is correct and there's no piston on valve interference issue. Then install and properly torque the sparkplugs. If you did not pull the drain plugs out of the sides of the block before removing the heads, you may very well have coolant in your oil pan, and this requires an oil change before ever cranking the motor. You don't want to introduce coolant into the oil passages. Drain the oil, and if you do in fact see water (it'll come out first before the oil...) spray some brake cleaner into the oil pan after you think all the oil is out, just to help flush any more water out. The brake cleaner will quickly evaporate and won't affect your new oil.

Excellent assembly procedure advice!!