Exhaust Manifolds/removal

[poezur]

My 02 Expy has the normal exhaust gasket leaks. The bolts look very difficult to get to and I have at least two of the studs broke off. Any help on a walk through of how to get these off? I want to replace the manifolds with headers, advice or brands that will work on 4x4 with 5.4 Triton Motor. There is no way I am gonna put the studs back in, so if I can't get headers for it, the manifolds will go back on with stainless ARP bolts. Any advice or walk through of the easiest way to remove these would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Canadian Expy]

Hire someone... LOL Sorry but thet are a BIG PIA to work on, I put on Gibson headers on mine, no problems with them.(the headers)

 

[poezur]

I have a shop willing to take off the old...for FIVE HUNDRED a bank!! Screw that! I have wrenched cars all my life, I can handle it. Just wanted to know the easiest route to getting the manifolds off and getting the studs out.

 

[panda24619]

no easy route. take them off and if they break your going to have to drill them out and re tamp the holes.

 

[99 Expy]

Ya, the studs they put on these heads are way to small. I have the same problem, but am leaving it until I get around to doing some engine work. I was quoted 60 bucks per broken stud, including ones that broke when they pulled them off. Normally I wouldn't have a problem drilling and tapping them out, but these aluminum heads are kinda touchy.

 

[Thermo]

poezur, the easiest way to do the manifolds is to put the front end up in the air on jackstands, remove the wheel well lines and jump in feet first. Much beyond that, not much else to say.

Hopefully all the bolts that break will leave you a little bit to grab on to outside of the head. I had 3 break off for me and I was able to grab on to the stubs with some vice grips and pull the rest of the bolt out. A liberal use of PB Blaster before going after the studs would be recommended. if the bolts are broken off inside the head, just be careful. Aluminum heads and steel bolts. Which do you think you are going to go through first if the drill bit gets off center?

 

[poezur]

Thats more what I was looking for. I did not want to tackle from above but have not even looked into going in through the wheel wells. Excellent! Now all I need is a weekend to do it...lol. Thanx!

 

[Mulchman]

A shop near me told me how to get the bolts out (have a 1998 F150). Was told that after the manifolds are off to start off by drilling a 1/8 th inch hole in the center of the broken bolt. Then just work your way up to a size big enough for an easy out tool. The final drill bit size will be big enough to dril out the bolt threads also. I was told you only have to drill a few threads into the head. That is how far the seized threads usually go. After you drill out a few threads, start your easy out into the center hole you have drilled and the broken piece should come right out.
I am going to do this as soon as I can afford a set of hardened drill bits and a right angle drill (which was recommended).
If I am able to do this before anyone else I will let you know how it works out.

Wayne

 

[megawatt00]

Years ago I was installing headers on a F250 with a 460 in it. I was having a tough time with the some of the bolts and scared to death that i was going to break some of them. They were very tight. I decided to cut the manifolds off the truck. Both sides "popped" when I was cutting them and the bolts came out very easily. It turns out that the manifolds had stretched and was holding tension on the bolts.

I will be installing headers as well and will attempt to repeat fate and cut the old manifolds off the truck. I used a sawzall previously.

 

[BakerEdition]

Mega, That make good sense as you have cast iron against aluminium heads, steel bolts in aluminum heads...expansion and contraction is more than likely what pops the heads off...when I do mine I plan on long tube headers so cutting them off and having room to soak the bolts with penetrating oil makes good logic....Thermo & Tom you have any thoughts on this...

 

[Thermo]

I put stainless bolts in my heads. So, what do you think?

 

[megawatt00]

Mega, That make good sense as you have cast iron against aluminium heads, steel bolts in aluminum heads...expansion and contraction is more than likely what pops the heads off...when I do mine I plan on long tube headers so cutting them off and having room to soak the bolts with penetrating oil makes good logic....Thermo & Tom you have any thoughts on this...

Exactly my thought process as to why to do it this way again. Cast cuts pretty easily too. I am hoping to get in there with a cutoff wheel as opposed to a sawzall too.

I put stainless bolts in my heads. So, what do you think?

Stainless with some never seize on it will not corrode or oxidize so that is a huge plus if you need to ever remove them






Jim

 

[BakerEdition]

This is the best forum ever....and just to think the engineers make the big bucks...boy could we show them a thing or two or 12 or 20 or 50...or..you get the point..LOL...what is the size of these bolts...

 

[megawatt00]

I believe that they are M8-1.25.

Chappy the problem with most engineers is that they don't have hands on real world experience everything looks good on paper. We on the other hand have the real world experience to see the hows and the whys to what works and what does not




Jim

 

[joecrotch]

that is so true I have a engineer buddy who helps with my BMW build once in a while. He comes up with some of the wildest crap sometimes. but he cant change a spark plug by himself lol.

 

[BakerEdition]

Could not agree more....I think when they go to school for a engineering degree part of there studies should be 6 months on hands working at a dealership...the ones who make it through will move on and most likely will take their knuckle cutting, blood blisters and cuss words to the drawing table with a much more mechanic friendly approach.

 

[Thermo]

Unfortunately, a lot of what is designed today is not designed with the mechanic in mind. Most of it is based on how to make the car be built faster and cheaper. Lord knows you don't want to have an issue with the new 6.0 and 6.7L engines. The first step to any engine work is "remove body from truck". What does that tell you about how the bolts are figured into things?

 

[megawatt00]

I have to agree with the both of you, yes it should be a requirement that all engineers complete a hands on portion in order to obtain their degree. But will that really change the way things are built? No Because as Thermo said it all boils down to building them faster and cheaper, boost profits to keep the shareholders happy.

I had the "pleasure" of pulling a turbo on a 6.0, and yes it would have been easier to pull the cab, especially if I had the provisions to do it.

 

[poezur]

Hey guys, found this article/walk through on a F250 5.4...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~jmray/F250ExhMani.htm
Looks very detailed and informative, lots of pics. Also shows a set of JBA headers goin on with a y pipe. Nice!!

 

[BakerEdition]

Great article....I printed it and will put it aside....Thanks