For Those Who Don't Think a Catch Can is Needed on Gen 4 s...

chaffdb said:

Part 2:

Here is what the inside of the can looks like, and another of it mounted. I went with the remote valve so it can be drained without opening the hood. Drain valve is zip tied to the frame behind the bumper.
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Next you remove the factory PCV tube on passenger side from photo 1 above. This is easily done with the factory connectors, and you can put this part aside in case you ever want to go back to stock. The you route the two provided hoses to the Catch Can, paying attention to which one as the check valve, which way it is pointed, and which fittings you are connecting to. This part is all very easy, and if you were just doing the "dirty" side, you'd basically be done.
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For the driver/clean/CCV side, Ford decided to use a different connector, the ones in orange in the second photo. According to UPR, there is no tool from Ford to remove this fitting. They suggest using a 90 degree pick or hook to remove it and admit you will likely break the connectors when removing. They provide photos and dedicated several pages to this step. They also provide replacement quick release ends for the factory hose in case you ever want to go back to "near" stock. It would function as stock, but without these ends, it will be obvious the hose has been removed and the ends replaced if anyone looks closely. I had a cheap 90 degree pick from Harbor Freight that worked exactly as UPR suggested. This was one of the harder steps but really not terrible, and I did break both connectors getting them off.
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They suggest a heat gun or lighter to warm the factory tube to replace the fittings. I used a heat gun and it made quick work of it, and then you can put the factory hose away for safe keeping. (Ok, I had to use it for a few days until the CSCC came in, but generally you shouldn't.)

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Great post/pics. I contemplated the catch can but have passed so far. What oil did you use?

Just did the break in oil change at 1,300 miles. Still surprised the factory fill is not fully synthetic. Used the Ford Pass points so my only oil option was the Motorcraft Full Synthetic.

Part 3:

After removing the CCV tube, you install the 3-way Plug N Play Wide Open Throttle adapter on the turbo inlet and connect one leg to the Catch Can. They just push on and click. I really like the connectors UPR is using. Pretty easy to remove and seem secure and quality. Center of the photo here, and this was taken after all hoses were run to it:

Then you mount the Clean Side Catch Can on the ABS brake controller bracket and run the lines as directed to the engine and to the turbo inlet 3-way.

Go back through and check all connections, reinstall the cold air intake (the metal fastener takes a few minutes, the push pins seconds as you'd expect), and enjoy all the extra power and quicker throttle response! I'm kidding, of course. Just seeing who is still reading by this point. We didn't notice any different in the way it drove or sounds or anything like that, nor did we expect to, and no problems with check engine lights or anything unexpected thus far. Oh, I did install the "Billet One-Way Crankcase Breather" which just replaces the oil fill cap. See last photo. As I believe I mentioned, UPR said it wasn't necessary in a stock or near stock application but would provide a fail-safe in the case of excessive crank case pressure. It's got a one-way valve inside it and supposed to be good in areas of cold and freezing weather (we have very little of that) and is best for "maximum engine seal life." I'll come back and post about contents of the Catch Cans at some point, and I'll probably have an analysis done of the can contents just to see what is in there and what percentage is fuel/oil etc just because I'm curious.

It took me around an hour and a half, total, maybe an hour forty-five, but I took a short phone call, was taking photos, was interrupted by my kids briefly once, and I'm probably slower than others. I'll be happy to try to answer questions if I can be of any help, and I take criticism fairly well as long as it's reasonably constructive. Hope this helps someone!

rvmode said:

Great post/pics. I contemplated the catch can but have passed so far. What oil did you use?

Just did the break in oil change at 1,300 miles. Still surprised the factory fill is not fully synthetic. Used the Ford Pass points so my only oil option was the Motorcraft Full Synthetic.

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Thanks. I think I'm sold on the catch can concept, but I'm not certain on the single or dual side yet. We'll see how much stuff I get out of the clean side can along the way before I can really have an opinion on that.

I just used the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend and Motorcraft FL-500S filter and did it myself. I found what I thought was a pretty good deal and bought enough of the MC Blend for the first 3 changes along with filters, but then I found I could get the MC Full Synthetic for basically the same price elsewhere and was pretty bummed. Oh well. These first few changes will all be somewhat early, although not nearly as short of interval as the first one. I haven't settled on what interval I'll change at or what oil I'll use long term yet. It's also getting a little cooler now and it will be driven fairly easily for a while, for what that is worth.

I was shooting for 1k miles for the first one and ended up changing it at 990 with 29 hours (and 93% oil life) showing. A friend and others said I was crazy for changing so early. I even had someone suggest the initial fill "might" have special ingredients in it to help the parts "harden and wear in better." Maybe it does, but that's news to me! Glad to see I'm not the only one that believes in a break-in change. The drained oil was fairly dark, especially for that few miles, and I am willing to be the wear metals in the analysis are much higher than they will be a change or two down the road.

I do find it interesting that it comes from the factory with a different oil filter. Mine had a FoMoCo AA5E 6714 EA on it. The last two letters appear to have changed over the years, but this has been a common practice for a while. The FoMoCo has slightly more capacity and a little bit thicker case, from what I have read, but I don't know that it offers any real advantage. Just interesting.

chaffdb said:

Thanks. I think I'm sold on the catch can concept, but I'm not certain on the single or dual side yet. We'll see how much stuff I get out of the clean side can along the way before I can really have an opinion on that.

I just used the Motorcraft Synthetic Blend and Motorcraft FL-500S filter and did it myself. I found what I thought was a pretty good deal and bought enough of the MC Blend for the first 3 changes along with filters, but then I found I could get the MC Full Synthetic for basically the same price elsewhere and was pretty bummed. Oh well. These first few changes will all be somewhat early, although not nearly as short of interval as the first one. I haven't settled on what interval I'll change at or what oil I'll use long term yet. It's also getting a little cooler now and it will be driven fairly easily for a while, for what that is worth.

I was shooting for 1k miles for the first one and ended up changing it at 990 with 29 hours (and 93% oil life) showing. A friend and others said I was crazy for changing so early. I even had someone suggest the initial fill "might" have special ingredients in it to help the parts "harden and wear in better." Maybe it does, but that's news to me! Glad to see I'm not the only one that believes in a break-in change. The drained oil was fairly dark, especially for that few miles, and I am willing to be the wear metals in the analysis are much higher than they will be a change or two down the road.

I do find it interesting that it comes from the factory with a different oil filter. Mine had a FoMoCo AA5E 6714 EA on it. The last two letters appear to have changed over the years, but this has been a common practice for a while. The FoMoCo has slightly more capacity and a little bit thicker case, from what I have read, but I don't know that it offers any real advantage. Just interesting.

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I just did my break in oil change at ~1550 miles. This time I sent a sample for oil analysis, guys at blackstone are amazing.
Early results. It should be on everyone’s list to change oil within first 5k miles. Lots of iron, copper, and silicone in my analysis. Normal for break-in, But not great additives to run with for first 10k miles. Also. Ford factory uses a slightly out of spec viscosity from 5w-30, lower than normal.

rd618 said:

I just did my break in oil change at ~1550 miles. This time I sent a sample for oil analysis, guys at blackstone are amazing.
Early results. It should be on everyone’s list to change oil within first 5k miles. Lots of iron, copper, and silicone in my analysis. Normal for break-in, But not great additives to run with for first 10k miles. Also. Ford factory uses a slightly out of spec viscosity from 5w-30, lower than normal.

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Yes, I'm in good/similar company here. lol. I'd like to compare results when mine come back. I'm a little surprised I haven't seen them yet. I've always used Blackstone and been happy. The only real negatives I have ever read is that their price is a little high and they don't "properly" measure for fuel in the sample, since they only do a flash point and "estimate" the fuel percentage off that, or something of that sort. For comparison purposes, I actually pulled 2 samples back to back. One went to Blackstone and the other to Oil Analyzers (kits purchased through Amsoil). Both went out a week ago, and I figure I should have results any time now. I've seen some other reports of slightly lower viscosity in the factory fill.

wakeboarder said:

There are two PCV locations on these engines. One at the intake manifold and one at the intake manifold. If running with boost, it will dump ahead of the turbo. If not boosting, it will dump at the intake manifold. Single catch can systems typically only work with the system connected to the intake manifold.

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Thanks for bringing this up as I have a question about the PCV, and CCV, sides.

I have a Full Race Oil catch can. It previously worked very well collecting blow-by. I’ve since upgraded to the Full Race intercooler, and TurboSmart BOV kit. Well, ever since that upgrade I’ve not had anything drain from the Full Race catch can. Did notice the BOV was pretty nasty (disassembled for thorough cleaning), so figured it was pulling/ dumping what the catch can was dumping. Also, checked my MAP sensor; it’s still not getting saturated with nastiness, so that checked good.

What I would like to know is if I were to uninstall the catch can (mentioned earlier it’s not collecting anything) and reinstall the OEM lines would it still run clean at the manifold? Would my MAP sensor remain clean if I were remove the PCV block-off plate and reconnect the passenger side PCV back to the manifold.

I ask for two reasons…
1. The catch can isn’t catching anything to drain since the installation of the BOV.
2. I would really like to reinstall my engine cover. Want to get it painted.

However, if the PCV will throw that crap back in the manifold still (sounds like it will as I read earlier this will happen when no boost is present) I will consider getting a passenger side catch can to prevent it from happening. I actually have a JLT can some where in the garage. Need to look for it when I get home.

For the catch can naysayers I can attest to the need for them as I had horrible issues with hesitation, and acceleration issues. Found out my MAP sensor was coated in blow-by crap. Cleaned it. Performance regained. Within 1-2wks it was saturated again. Did more research which lead me to tap my intercooler. It started to drip a mix of oil and water. This drip turned into a steady flow with some acceleration.

You know what… having typed out my entire experience, and thinking about how the system works as I described my issue might’ve just helped me answer my own question. I know what I need to do.

Take a look at a few of my pics. You’ll see why there’s a need. Here is a link to Google Photo’s to see a video of the contamination leaking out of the intercooler. At this point I was thinking about the Full Race replacement, so why not tap a small hole to see what, if anything, I should be worried about. Here’s what I saw… look at the ground beneath the truck. That’s how much leaked out before I decided to race the motor a bit…

What you’re seeing inside the old intercooler isn’t the entire story. Some of the fluid leaked out due to manipulation for the purpose of removing. By the time I thought it be a good idea to get evidence what you see is what was left. Plenty enough to give a good idea to what’s going on.

With that evidence provided it’s easy to see how my sensors were coated in gunk. Once I cleaned them it was entirely different story. As mentioned earlier that did last long.

LokiWolf said:

JLT is easy, and won’t break the bank!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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Do you have a link (or recommendation) on where to buy one for a 2023 SPP?

Also, what is the consensus on if dealers use this to void the warranty?

(I don't have my 2023 yet, still driving my 2010, so catach cans are new to me even though i've been on this forum for years)

@Ellison Brown III Does your Full race kit not have passenger side tubing? It should be collecting on that side regardless.

wakeboarder said:

One at the intake manifold and one at the intake manifold.

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Just to clarify this was supposed to say: One at the intake manifold and one at the intake tube prior to the turbo.

I think the one prior to the turbo has an electric valve.