03 5.4L (2 valve) head gasket replacement - Disassembly questions

[Eric M]

I just used Duralast 'cause of the warranty and AutoZone was literally just around the corner.

I agree, I often end up going with parts from Autozone only because of the lifetime warranty, even if "Duralast" is not my favorite brand. Thanks very much for the links.

 

[Eric M]

So, after some procrastinating I am about to remove the exhaust manifolds. I could not find any good videos demonstrating the driver's side removal. The Haynes manual calls for the front driveshaft to be removed. Is this step totally necessary? And feel free to offer any other advice. Thanks!

 

[Hamfisted]

I used an air impact and long extension to reach the exhaust flange nuts. Is that what you're talking about ? Spray 'em with some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil ( Walmart ) and let them soak for a while before you try to bust the nuts loose. I left the manifolds on the heads and took them off as one piece. Once off the motor and on a work bench I sprayed the manifold nuts with Liquid Wrench and used the air impact to pop the nuts off again. Broke a couple and just had the machine shop remove the studs when they did the head rebuild. Replaced 'em with stainless studs and used copper anti-seize on the threads.

 

[Eric M]

I used an air impact and long extension to reach the exhaust flange nuts. Is that what you're talking about ? Spray 'em with some Liquid Wrench penetrating oil ( Walmart ) and let them soak for a while before you try to bust the nuts loose. I left the manifolds on the heads and took them off as one piece. Once off the motor and on a work bench I sprayed the manifold nuts with Liquid Wrench and used the air impact to pop the nuts off again. Broke a couple and just had the machine shop remove the studs when they did the head rebuild. Replaced 'em with stainless studs and used copper anti-seize on the threads.

Great! The fact that I can leave the manifolds on the heads and remove them in one piece will save me a ton of work. Thanks a lot!

 

[BlackCoffee]

One little bit of warning. I did the same thing the first time I replaced the head gaskets. When it comes to putting them back together, the tough part is working with the oil dipstick that needs to be routed between the exhaust manifold and the intake. The heads, with manifold are pretty heavy and lining up the head for installation while trying to get the dip stick in place is not easy. I think the Haynes manual was having you come from the bottom, try and come in through the side.

One trick I learned on the second go around was to jack the front end, remove the tires, and remove the inner splash shield. That will give you good access to the exhaust manifold.

 

[BlackCoffee]

Saw you query on the front grill. Unless you are going to remove the radiator and evaporator, you don't gain any front end access by removing the front bumper cover (see my pictures in your parts post). It really isn't that hard to remove the bumper cover. The radiator and evaporator will be the problem. The transmission lines into the radiator can be problematic and you will need to recharge the A/C if you pull the evaporator. If you do disconnect the evaporator, you should also replace the dryer in the A/C system. Otherwise, buy a U-Haul box, cut it up, and tape it to the back of the radiator for protection.

 

[Hamfisted]

Yeah, I had mine on ramps for the whole operation. Because I was always going underneath for this or that. I had a stepping stool for standing and reaching in the engine bay when I wasn't actually sitting in the bay. The oil dipstick and tube come out early in the operation. Like after you remove the air filter box. And go back in after you put the valve covers back on when you're buttoning everything up. Just that one bolt securing the tube to the head and it pulls out. Very easy.







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[Eric M]

I have assumed from the start that I was going to have the heads done at the local machine shop or order reconditioned heads.

That is what I have done in the past. Now, as the price tag for this repair continues to grow, I am wondering if having the heads machined is even necessary. The local shop will charge me a minimum of $425/head including the valve job.

My question: Is it a bad idea to not get the heads machined? If I do the valves and thoroughly clean the mating surfaces on the heads and block, would that likely be sufficient? I definitely don't want to cut corners. But nor do I want to spend on things that aren't necessary. Thanks.

 

[Hamfisted]

I don't know what kind of machinist support you have in your town ( or neighboring town...) but are you sure that's not for BOTH heads ? Down here in south Florida I paid $375 for a complete overhaul of both heads ( as well as some exhaust stud removals...). How many miles were on the motor? I don't know if you actually need a "valve job". Maybe just a resurfacing and replace the valve seals. You can test your valve seat sealing by turning the head so that the combustion chamber is straight up and spray some WD40 on the valve seat area to see if the liquid stays there or disappears ( indicating poor valve face seal ) . If the valves are still sealing well they're most likely fine as is. Just replace the stem seals with the ones that come in your head gasket set. But resurfacing the heads is important when using the new MLS style head gaskets, so have that done regardless.








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[Eric M]

I don't know what kind of machinist support you have in your town ( or neighboring town...) but are you sure that's not for BOTH heads ? Down here in south Florida I paid $375 for a complete overhaul of both heads ( as well as some exhaust stud removals...). How many miles were on the motor? I don't know if you actually need a "valve job". Maybe just a resurfacing and replace the valve seals. You can test your valve seat sealing by turning the head so that the combustion chamber is straight up and spray some WD40 on the valve seat area to see if the liquid stays there or disappears ( indicating poor valve face seal ) . If the valves are still sealing well they're most likely fine as is. Just replace the stem seals with the ones that come in your head gasket set. But resurfacing the heads is important when using the new MLS style head gaskets, so have that done regardless.








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Thanks very much for the input. So I called the local shop again just to confirm their pricing and was happy to hear that to "deck the head" (machine the mating surface) is only $85/head. Obviously, I will get this done. The $425/head is a complete head reconditioning, with valve job.