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03NavigatorGuy
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No remote start! Where are pin 11 & 1 at the CJB again? I only knew pin 1 by the color at the back but didn't locate it in front
04 Navi No Start-No Crank No PWR to OBD
- Thread starter 03NavigatorGuy
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stamp11127
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Looks like connectors C270H and C270D. All data should have a section where you can see the connector layout same with the cjb.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Ahh, sorry, it's been a long day. I need to check the same wires, but do so AFTER I jump wires 4 and 7?
stamp11127
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yes, should be one wire on each connector. If 11 doesn't have power then 1 will not also.
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03NavigatorGuy
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When 4 & 7 are jumped, 11 has NO power.
stamp11127
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Break in the wire. Usually happens when the tilt wheel is raised and lowered often. Do you have soldering iron and heat shrink tubing?
Do you have enough wire to make a jumper from ign switch plug #4 to #11 at the cjb?
Do you have enough wire to make a jumper from ign switch plug #4 to #11 at the cjb?
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03NavigatorGuy
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Yes, I do. Can I run a long jump wire over to pin 11 from pin 4 (I think), and see if that enables the current to flow?
stamp11127
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Yes, I would make the last connection at #4 so it is easier to work with. Just touch the wire to #4 to make the starter clunk. If you hear it then you can keep the connection on longer to crank longer. I only do this in case there may be additional problems and avoid letting more smoke out. The starter relay needs to be in place.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Thanks! I will try that in the morning and see what happens. Then I can look for where the wire might be damaged/broken, as I didn't see anything near the steering column or ignition switch.
stamp11127
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What? It isn't even midnight yet! I'm usually up to 3am since I'm off work now. Good luck with finding the break. You need a special tool to find them and most mechanics don't have it. Without the tool it is easier to run a new wire. Don't run a new wire yet or cut the existing wire, you need to verify a break with a continuity check first.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Is that the one of the products from PowerProbe, like The Hook?
stamp11127
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stamp11127
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Minor update to using the long jumper wire. Since there is more than one circuit at the ignition switch and we are only looking at one of them we are changing the test procedure. Remove the starter relay, install test light or meter to check for voltage in the relay socket for 86. When the jumper is connected you should read battery voltage.
If you do have voltage, connect the ign switch back up, jumper in place (4 to 11), starter relay in place and try to start.
With the ign switch connected all circuits that need power will have it - or should. PCM should complete the circuit to ground and crank the engine.
If you do have voltage, connect the ign switch back up, jumper in place (4 to 11), starter relay in place and try to start.
With the ign switch connected all circuits that need power will have it - or should. PCM should complete the circuit to ground and crank the engine.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Success!!! SORTA! This morning I retraced my steps and found that I was attempting to jump from the wrong pin/wire for pin 11, as in the light-of-day the colors look different than with flashlight. Anyway, with the jumper run from pin 11 to the wire 4 I can start the Navi, but only in Neutral. Still no dash, and you cant turn it off with the key, you must un-jump the wires.
stamp11127
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That tells you the pcm is supplying the ground to complete the circuit, but you do have a break in the wire. Before replacing it you should confirm with a continuity test from the ign switch plug to the cjb connector. While the meter is hooked up you can move/bend the harness where accessible. Who knows you may find the break.
You should also be able to start in park. If it won't the the digital range select may have failed. Depending on the transmission that sucker may be located inside it. Not something a beginner should attempt to replace, it usually requires removing the valve body.
You can also test the ignition switch unplugged from the harness. You should have continuity between 4 and pin 7 in start, also pin 4 to pin 6 in acc and run. If any fail the test replace the switch.
You should also be able to start in park. If it won't the the digital range select may have failed. Depending on the transmission that sucker may be located inside it. Not something a beginner should attempt to replace, it usually requires removing the valve body.
You can also test the ignition switch unplugged from the harness. You should have continuity between 4 and pin 7 in start, also pin 4 to pin 6 in acc and run. If any fail the test replace the switch.
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03NavigatorGuy
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I will work on that! Now I have to see why the dash still doesn't illuminate and the HVAC doesn't either.
stamp11127
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You're call but I prefer to solve one issue at a time.
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03NavigatorGuy
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Me too, just wasn't sure if they were somehow related!
I have ordered the part, will be in tomorrow. It's an external sensor so no issue getting it replaced. While I wait, what should we tackle today?
stamp11127
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Have you tested the ignition switch for continuity on the different circuits?
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03NavigatorGuy
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No sir, I have not! How do I do that properly?
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