200 amp alt?

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GAINMOB

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so autozone told me the diodes were going bad in my alternator...so i found this 200 amp alt on ebay...suppose to be a bosch AL7614X...i checked the webiste and they do have 200 amp alts...put for this p/n they have listed as 130...does anyone know anywhere i can find a 200 watt amp...so far i'm only finding 130's...

the ebay amp is on there for $109...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280712451140
 
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toms89

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so autozone told me the diodes were going bad in my alternator...so i found this 200 amp alt on ebay...suppose to be a bosch AL7614X...i checked the webiste and they do have 200 amp alts...put for this p/n they have listed as 130...does anyone know anywhere i can find a 200 watt amp...so far i'm only finding 130's...

the ebay amp is on there for $109...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280712451140

200 watt alternator would be no problem. :) 200 amps is a lil more hard to find. I found the following with a quick search...

http://www.nationsautoelectric.com/highampford.html
 
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tonydiv

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I'm pretty sure the people I bought my battery tray from make a 200 amp alt for your truck. wranglerpower.com (but the web site is screwed up at this time, so you may have to call.)
 

Thermo

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Ross, give the e-bay people a message and see what they did to "upgrade" the alternator to 200 amps. It is possible that they replaced the guts of the alternator with the 200 amp stuff, but are still calling it the old part number. Essentially, they have to put in new stator, rotor, and diode assembly. If it is truely a 200 amp alternator, then it will bolt right up to your truck. Then you can test it by simply turning up your stereo and seeing of the headlights dim. If they do, then you know the alternator is only a 135 amp unit. You may want them to send you a picture of the back of the alternator. As I recall, the diode assembly says what it is rated to handle. That way before you install the alternator, you can give it a quick look over to make sure you are getting what you are thinking you got.
 
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GAINMOB

GAINMOB

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Ross, give the e-bay people a message and see what they did to "upgrade" the alternator to 200 amps. It is possible that they replaced the guts of the alternator with the 200 amp stuff, but are still calling it the old part number. Essentially, they have to put in new stator, rotor, and diode assembly. If it is truely a 200 amp alternator, then it will bolt right up to your truck. Then you can test it by simply turning up your stereo and seeing of the headlights dim. If they do, then you know the alternator is only a 135 amp unit. You may want them to send you a picture of the back of the alternator. As I recall, the diode assembly says what it is rated to handle. That way before you install the alternator, you can give it a quick look over to make sure you are getting what you are thinking you got.

i already sent a message asking if it was really a 200 amp alt...telling them that the p/n theyre using isnt listed for a 200 per bosch technicians...will i have to upgrade my wiring for the 200?
 

ELVATO

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Wouldn't think so. Though if you haven't done so, you might as well do the big three.
 

ELVATO

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Where you upgrade some of the wiring to 0 gauge wire. I think it's the alternator to battery, the battery to chassis, and engine block to chassis? Or is it frame?
 
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GAINMOB

GAINMOB

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i know the current harness attaches to starter to battery and theres a split to alt...
 
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GAINMOB

GAINMOB

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they customized it to 200 amps...i asked specifically what was upgraded...waiting for response.
 

Thermo

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Ross, I would upgrade 3 wires if you install the 200 amp alternator. Using 0 gauge or 2 gauge wiring is not going to make that big of a difference as most of these runs are going to be fairly short. The 3 wires that need to be upgraded are:

1) wire running from the back of the alternator to the battery post on the starter solenoid
2) ground wire between the engine block and the body of the truck (could run a new wire from the block of the truck to the negative battery terminal)
3) ground wire between the body of the truck and the negative battery cable (this still needs to be done even if you run a new wire between the engine block and the battery).

If you need any help with this, let me know. The cables can be made up fairly quickly (I have all the tools at my place) and installing them is nothing more than loosening up some bolts in the area and then landing the new wires. The only "difficult" spot is the negative battery cable and if you spend a few bucks on a new negative battery terminal, that is easily overcome too. If you have questions on the new battery terminal, I will give you an example of what I am talking about.
 

panda24619

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Ross, I would upgrade 3 wires if you install the 200 amp alternator. Using 0 gauge or 2 gauge wiring is not going to make that big of a difference as most of these runs are going to be fairly short. The 3 wires that need to be upgraded are:

1) wire running from the back of the alternator to the battery post on the starter solenoid
2) ground wire between the engine block and the body of the truck (could run a new wire from the block of the truck to the negative battery terminal)
3) ground wire between the body of the truck and the negative battery cable (this still needs to be done even if you run a new wire between the engine block and the battery).

If you need any help with this, let me know. The cables can be made up fairly quickly (I have all the tools at my place) and installing them is nothing more than loosening up some bolts in the area and then landing the new wires. The only "difficult" spot is the negative battery cable and if you spend a few bucks on a new negative battery terminal, that is easily overcome too. If you have questions on the new battery terminal, I will give you an example of what I am talking about.

thats the big 3

alt-batt
batt-body
engine-batt
big 4 includes engine-body.
 
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GAINMOB

GAINMOB

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why is every alternator word highlighted red? anywho...so i figured i'll take car of the alternator as soon i returned from training...so i'm at my job checking my emails before i head out...leave truck running and lock doors using keypad...return to truck...keypad doesnt work...so i'm locked out...call a locksmith to get it open and they'll be here in 20 mins or so...decide to go back and check again to see if i can get in...truck is OFF!!! never had that happen to me before and i've had alts go bad before on previous cars...thought the rule was to never turn it off cause it may not start again...well it was still running and died...so after the locksmith opens the truck...i'll have to get it towed home...
 
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GAINMOB

GAINMOB

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so i got jump'd by the locksmith...with a jump box...alt is DONE!!! barely had enough juice to roll the windows up...so i'll buy the new alt this weekend or beginning of next week and it should arrive to the house right before i get back...no need to to it home...i'll end up towing it back to base so i can fix it at the hobby shop...for some reason...everything is shutting down in the past 2 months...new car, new funiture, new dryer, new alt...i guess its better now than while i'm deployed and the wife stressing having to deal with it...she'll have her hands full with moving to new house while i'm gone...
 

Thermo

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Ross, if the stator is upgraded, that is fine, but the rectifier assembly also needs to be upgraded to else the alternator is going to fry itself in a heartbeat. So, before you buy that bigger alternator, make sure the rectifier (diode) assembly is upgraded too. Else, you are going to use the alternator good a few times and then the rectifier assembly is going to cook itself and fail.

As for the truck stopping when the doors were locked, what essentially happened is you were running just on the battery and the voltage got low enough that the COPs couldn't keep the engine running. You could have gotten the truck home by yourself if you had someone willing to put a partial charge on the battery using some jumper cables (about 15 minutes with the jumper cables connected between the two vehicles and theirs running). That would have gotten you home provided you kept everything else off.

As for the 6 gauge wiring being "thick enough" (that's what she said, LMAO), all the manufacturers these days use the "bare minimum" wiring for a given application. So, Ford is already near the limit of what that 6 gauge wire will handle. Now, you are going to add another 50% worth of current carrying capacity there. Doing some number calculations, you are going to be dropping 0.8 VDC just between the alternator and the starter solenoid. For a wire like that, it is a lot of power loss. Not to mention, that wire is going to be dropping 160 watts of heat (think about the heat a 150 watt light bulb gives off, that is the heat that wire is going to give off!!!!!). Will the truck work, yes. But it will work better with the heavier gauge wiring.
 
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