2000 Expedition 4.6

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Billme

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Did have a leak at the vent..
Description on the video
I got to tell ya, this smoke machine is a must have.. It can also do pressure testing

 
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I’m debating on wither to redo the joints on the main vapor line going back.. They passed the smoke test, but they’re crusty .
Heck, I’m going to change it all…let her rip
 
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Ok, zoom in on these two pictures of the front and back vent valves.. They are actually check valves, checking toward the tank..
I’m wondering since both have the same looking crack, at the same place(what are the odds) if these are intentional..
The front seems to leak very slightly while no leak in the rear.. I wonder if it to allow the check to work properly..
Should I leave it alone, or cover with ultra black?
 

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Well, all that work didn’t change, but the new pump gained 1000 rpm’s in test..
All done needed to be done, so it’s not in vain..
Got a mass airflow sensor.. The screws both snapped, so I’m waiting for the epoxy to cure, then put some screws in to hold the new sensor..
It’s a good fight..
 

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I must have made a mistake somewhere during the smoke test.. I should have plugged the tailpipe, so everything could pressure up better.
After getting the new mass airflow on, it still pulses, at even higher rpm, nearly 3 grand, except when it idles to the low end, it sounds like a lope, like a hp cam. Still no lean codes..
 
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Put the old Idle control valve back on and this changed the rom back down to 1500..
I ran another smoke test on the intake, still didn’t see anything but I can hear it now.. Seems to be coming from the egr area, but I don’t feel, or hear a change when a spray around it..
This thing is whipping me.. It may be doing like the ICV gasket..I’m going to check that.. If that doesn’t do it, I’m pulling the intake, and getting a new one, or if I can get just the lower intake..
What I did notice this time on live data, longterm fuel, was negative numbers, where they use to run 8 to 10.. You can tell the engine is running lean, I would think the PCM would be adding fuel..
Is this a sign, the pcm is damaged.. I got another week before my professional mechanic can see it..
Damaged one bolt hole on the ICV, but was able to fix with a tap.. The story continues.. I hope I’m not boring you guys too much…
 

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How the heck do you guys deal with that PCV vac hose in the back of the throttle body? Dang! I guess I’m going to have to take the TB off to check it… This was a new hose, but ….
Since I had to add another gasket to the ICV, I also may have to on the throttle body, and EGR valve..It’s really hard for me since I can’t step down in the motor area, like I did when doing the timing job..
 

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I checked my alternator, it was 14.4, so thinking the inverter might be giving off spikes, I unplugged it, and started it.. I thought I had found it, it sat there at 1100, from the usual 1500, wow..
After a few minutes it started the small pulsing, but not like before, like the ICV was correcting for the EGR opening, then it seemed to gain a little in the pulse..
I think I have two problems.. One is , even though the egr passed the smoke test when cold, and when it opens it starts sucking air, or somehow the electrical side is amplifying this.. I can’t explain the new drop of rpm’s during this party when I unplugged the alternator ..That new T7 that Harbor Freight has is mighty tempting right now
 
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I’m convinced this is an electrical problem possibly the ignition switch.. At its worse pulse, I can shut of the engine, and restart a couple times, then it’s normal..
Manoman..
 
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Getting closer… I made my appointment with my local shop..He has his shop at his house.. Anyway I was correct on my assumption that this was a command.. It was due to out of band operation ICV..He could reconfigure the control point on his computer, but when you turn the key off, and restarted, it was corrupt again..Hummm..
So I suggested we put a new ignition switch and a power control relay to make sure a clean pathway to the PCM gives us some better results..
If it corrupts it again, then I guess a new PCM will be needed
 
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Well , the new ignition switch and relay didn’t change a thing…..
I had this alternator rebuilt at a place I’ve been doing business for years, the grand kids are running it now.. It has made a whining sound ever since..I’m down to changing the alternator with a brand new one, or ordering a PCM..
 
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I also got my fuel rail extension for this harbor freight fuel pressure gauge since the harbor freight adapter broke..
New pump is rated at 50 lbs, but running pressure is 36 without the fuel pressure regulator hooked up, otherwise it’s few pounds lower.. Kinda disappointing, but barely in specs..
Engine runs good, has good power, just the idle is getting
They fit the ford, and the harbor freight PG if you ever need one..
Fuel Injection Pressure Tester... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09XBFM1Y9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
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I unplugged the alternator again, it just drops rpm with a smaller command..
What’s weird is during the 1500 rpm pulsing 400 rpm’s, you can turn the key off, Restart and it will do what’s it’s supposed to w1000 rpm’s, then drop to 750.. It will stay steady for several minutes, the start in small increments, and build up a few hundred rpm’s.. You hit the peddle to the floor real quick and let off, it hangs a few places, and all of sudden it goes back to the small pulses at 750..
Since it still does it with the alternator unplugged, my only choice is a PCM now..
Any comments?
 
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During my smoke test, I didn’t look at the bottom.. Would a rear seal large failure cause this pulling through the oil drain holes? I do leak oil there…I got to thinking about it again hehe, even though my local man confirmed my thoughts..
Anyway, I’m taking it to a electrical automotive expert in the morning..
 
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Ok he confirms I need a pcm, now which one to get..
Any suggestions? I hope they have upgraded processors that are much faster hehe
 
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Thx my friend.. Will I have to have my keys programmed if I take it out to get the part number? I’m driving it now since the ICU calibrated correctly smoothed the engine out, but still gets that hit. Much easier to deal with..
 

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The PCMs will come with two pre-programmed keys, but they WILL have to be cut to match your door locks and ignition switch. Give them your current PCM part number, and your Expy's date of manufacture and VIN just to make sure you get the most accurate replacement PCM.
 
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I decided to wait a week before continuing this path, just to refresh my options on this diagnosis, so I went out and cranked up the expedition and still the same, but I noticed something different.. I decided to turned on my light switch and noticed my radio leds and mileage leds dimmed significantly.. I checked the adjustment Roller to make sure it was maximum.. It would still dim.. This is not normal.. Several months ago I had the alternator redone..It seems I started noticing little quirks pop up, and finally where I am today..
They did break a generator mounting bolt in my intake I noticed and didn’t tell me about it..Very po’ed about that..There is a whine coming from the alternator, but the last two mechanics didn’t mention or supposedly find anything..
I’m wondering how I should proceed..
 
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