2007 Ford Expedition Engine popping loud, please help?

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Boose

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Don't buy a MAF unless you are getting a code and can confirm it's the problem. I like the O2 sensor first... if that is malfunctioning and shutting down fuel at high load, that popping will absolutely happen. I'd think you'd have a O2 sensor range fault code but who knows...
 

sesmith

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The cat efficiency code isn't related to your problem. It almost always means the cat is worn out and needs replacement. The ecm compares the response of the forward O2 sensor with the rear O2 sensor. It the rear tracks the front too closely, then the cat isn't doing its job and fails the efficiency test.

Before you start swapping parts, I would do a compression test and check the condition of the plugs, and if you still have any of your old coils that were good, I'd swap them in to see if you could change symptoms.
 
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chris2888

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The #2 #5 plugs had to be replaced recently. I assume all plugs are wearing. I will swap a couple around to see if it chanced it first.

I assume if the plugs are burnt or work it will cause spark knock/detonation
 

rjdelp7

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Broken exhaust manifold studs are common on these engines. It sounds like a tick or pop. It is usually worse when cold or hard acceleration.
 
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chris2888

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Didn't think about the exhaust manifold studs. I will look at that this weekend. So everyone can see below here is what I have done this past weekend.

It has not improved yet, but this far...

Figured I needed to fix anything that tossed a code. The only codes were a number 2 misfire [get to that in a second] and catalyst bank 2 as above.

The cylinder 2 misfire was a surprise because 3 weeks ago it pulled the same code and I replaced a worn plug n coil.

This time I got a new plug n replaced it. Then swapped the coil with the number 1 cylinder coil to see if misfire 2 came back or misfire cylinder 1 started. So far after 100miles added that code hasnt come back. If it does I am going to replace the file injector for cylinder 2.

I also ran some sea foam in the vacume line to burn out carbon. Smoked a little but good.

Cleared all codes and it ran 75 miles and popped the catalyst efficincy code P
 
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chris2888

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sorry hit reply to fast. Anyways it popped precious bank 2 lean code.

The one thing odd though on the spark plug I pulled out of cylinder 2 is the color. It's only been a couple weeks but it is orange, yellow, just color. Going to try n post a few pics.

BTW it is still popping just as bad
 

rjdelp7

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Didn't think about the exhaust manifold studs. I will look at that this weekend. So everyone can see below here is what I have done this past weekend.

It has not improved yet, but this far...

Figured I needed to fix anything that tossed a code. The only codes were a number 2 misfire [get to that in a second] and catalyst bank 2 as above.

The cylinder 2 misfire was a surprise because 3 weeks ago it pulled the same code and I replaced a worn plug n coil.

This time I got a new plug n replaced it. Then swapped the coil with the number 1 cylinder coil to see if misfire 2 came back or misfire cylinder 1 started. So far after 100miles added that code hasnt come back. If it does I am going to replace the file injector for cylinder 2.

I also ran some sea foam in the vacume line to burn out carbon. Smoked a little but good.

Cleared all codes and it ran 75 miles and popped the catalyst efficincy code P
Seafoam has isopropyl alcohol. It is bad for seals. It is bad for catalytic converters. Removing carbon from the engine and blowing into the catalytic honeycomb, is bad.
 

Boose

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Seafoam has isopropyl alcohol. It is bad for seals. It is bad for catalytic converters. Removing carbon from the engine and blowing into the catalytic honeycomb, is bad.

While agree that excessive carbon can foul up a cat...Seafoam is 100% petroleum based. I have used it for years on everything from the 3V 5.4 in my 05 expedition to my 2 cycle leaf blower. If you follow the directions it really works wonders.
 

1955moose

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Besides messing up delicate cats on these vehicles. Breaking up carbon can be a risky proposition. General motors used to make a great additive that you poured down a carburetor when running. It would smoke like hell, but burned off carbon like nothing I'd ever seen. Problem is sometimes hunks of carbon would lodge in valve. I used to do oil change right afterward. In the old days a yellow porcelain was lead fouling from gasoline. Only 1 cylinder plug turning yellow/orange indicates a fuel mixture issue, along with carbon transfer to plug. You say your Suv runs/ idles as it should, but I read you had a dtc code, actually a few. What are you comparing running condition to. I'm going to throw out there along with the codes for cat, and weird spark plug reading, I'm thinking valve, or worn cam lobe/ rocker arm. If your getting the popping, that can be indicative of a valve not opening or sealing proper. When all else is tried you might want to pull valve covers, check cams, rockers, and do an old fashioned 8 cylinder compression test.

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rjdelp7

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While agree that excessive carbon can foul up a cat...Seafoam is 100% petroleum based. I have used it for years on everything from the 3V 5.4 in my 05 expedition to my 2 cycle leaf blower. If you follow the directions it really works wonders.
Seafoam is 40% Naptha, 40% straw yellow/pale oil 10-20% Isopropyl. Soapy water in small amounts will decarbonize a engine. My Fathers favorite way, when were kids, was to go on the highway and 'blow it out'. The old cars, you actually see black soot, come out of the tailpipe.
 

Boose

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I tried desperately to find an MSDS on the stuff :)
 
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