2017 factory brake controller

[Black]

Double check the part number stickers on your engine coolant and oil radiators. The HD Tow option is so common on these trucks they may already on the truck.

-- Chuck

Easy to tell just look and see if you have the transcooler mounted in front of the radiator.
If you have the cooler you have the HD package if not you don’t and you’ll want upgrade to the the HD radiator and aux trans cooler.

 

[chuck s]

There used to be two transmission radiator sizes. Regular and HD. Never seen the smaller one though. The HD engine coolant radiator is definitely thicker.

-- Chuck

 

[Expy00]

I will check the radiator but there is no xmission oil cooler.
There was no brake controller or 7 pin connector. All three items are in the HD tow package.
Here is the list of mechanical equipment. Is the 1600# payload or 7,760 GVWR standard or an upgrade?

• 1600# Maximum Payload
• 250 Amp Alternator
• 34 Gal. Fuel Tank
• 4-Wheel Disc Brakes w/4-Wheel ABS, Front And Rear Vented Discs, Brake Assist, Hill Descent Control and Hill Hold Control
• 72-Amp/Hr 650CCA Maintenance-Free Battery w/Run Down Protection
• Auto Locking Hubs
• Class IV Towing Equipment -inc: Harness, Hitch and Trailer Sway Control
• Double Wishbone Front Suspension w/Coil Springs
• Electric Power-Assist Speed-Sensing Steering
• Electronic Transfer Case
• Engine: 3.5L EcoBoost V6
• Front And Rear Anti-Roll Bars
• GVWR: 7,760 lbs Payload Package
• Gas-Pressurized Shock Absorbers
• Limited Slip w/3.73 Axle Ratio
• Multi-Link Rear Suspension w/Coil Springs
• Part And Full-Time Four-Wheel Drive
• Single Stainless Steel Exhaust w/Chrome Tailpipe Finisher
• Transmission w/Driver Selectable Mode
• Transmission: 6-Speed Automatic w/SelectShift

 

[Expy00]

Easy to tell just look and see if you have the transcooler mounted in front of the radiator.
If you have the cooler you have the HD package if not you don’t and you’ll want upgrade to the the HD radiator and aux trans cooler.

I am planning to put the Ford auxiliary transmission cooler in the truck. Does the factory package have the transmission fluid going thru the radiator then the aux cooler or does the aux cooler stand alone?
On of the exploded parts views looks like it is the only cooling method of transmission fluid.

 

[chuck s]

Is the 1600# payload or 7,760 GVWR standard or an upgrade?

I'm think it's standard for the EX frame and suspension as my short wheelbase '17 has a 1416# max payload and a 7500# GVWR. I have the factory HD Tow package and suspect the payload and GVWR do not change with that option as there are no suspension parts I can see in the option list.

 

[Expy00]

I'm think it's standard for the EX frame and suspension

View attachment 28917

Thanks. My radiator is tagged CL34-8005BA 17175 D1 and Stamped B281H Made in USA
From what I have found of Ford part numbers the standard Rad is BL3Z-8005-B
and with the HDTPkg the Radiator is BL3Z-8005-C
So I don't think the Radiator is the same as the Heavy Duty Tow Package Radiator

 

[Black]

I am planning to put the Ford auxiliary transmission cooler in the truck. Does the factory package have the transmission fluid going thru the radiator then the aux cooler or does the aux cooler stand alone?
On of the exploded parts views looks like it is the only cooling method of transmission fluid.

My understanding is that it is cooled by the radiator. I have not been down and followed any lines.
I don’t tow a whole lot but the better cooling you can get is always a plus.
I will be doing the radiator at a minimum. The bracket is there for the cooler as well so one should just need the radiator, cooler, and cooler lines and it SHOULD be that simple. But I have not had a chance to get in there and verify.

 

[Langer]

Expy00, did you ever put the auxiliary transmission cooler in? I’ve been following a lot of these threads but haven’t read someone that’s done it. I looked on parts.ford.com and fordpartsgiant.com and think I have the correct part, but wanted to double check. It’s a bit more expensive than what I’ve seen people talking about for an auxiliary cooler from both sites. Does anyone have part number(s)? Is there a kit somewhere or do I need to buy each individual part listed?

 

[HandyAZ]

This has been such a great thread and thank you for all of the great info. I just purchased a 2017 Expedition without the upgraded tow package (does already have the Class IV Hitch) and I'm going to follow the steps to put in the factory brake controller. My question is this... Do I need to get a full "Universal Kit" to convert the 4 pin to a 7 pin that has all the 10 guage wire (https://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.html) or can I simply get the adapter and find the capped blue wire that MAY be in the rear of the Expedition already? https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mig...MIxPb9sufL4gIVjcpkCh2paQCnEAQYASABEgK6OvD_BwE

Where would I find the blue wire to tie into? Is it near the rear tail light or somewhere else?

 

[chuck s]

I don't know if that's the right "kit" but you want all seven wires. Not looked but I've been assured the Blue (brake) wire is back there "blunt cut, dipped, and taped." Manufacturing economies and automated assembly literally demand all the wiring for any accessory is on the vehicle so no special wiring needs to be added. Borrow a trailer connection tester or check all the connections with a 12v test light.

Reminder: there are fuses and relays that need to be connected in the front fuse box.

As an aside (but related) I had a new roof installed on my Honda S2000 over the weekend which requires much of the interior to come out. Found the wiring harness for the CD changer that will mount in the trunk was there. Alas, no changer, but all the wiring is there.

-- Chuck

 

[Langer]

The blue wire is back there capped, you’ll have to splice into the reverse light wire from the tail light, and run a wire from the large orange wire in the engine bay above the driver’s side wheel back to get 12v accessory power.

Read through this:https://www.expeditionforum.com/threads/4-prong-to-7-prong.32359/

I just finished up this project 2 weeks ago and did it exactly this way with the positap.

 

[Expy00]

My question is this... Do I need to get a full "Universal Kit" to convert the 4 pin to a 7 pin that has all the 10 guage wire (https://www.etrailer.com/p-ETBC7.html) or can I simply get the adapter and find the capped blue wire that MAY be in the rear of the Expedition already? https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Mig...MIxPb9sufL4gIVjcpkCh2paQCnEAQYASABEgK6OvD_BwE

Where would I find the blue wire to tie into? Is it near the rear tail light or somewhere else?

You can install and connect any standard 7-pin adapter. The brake wire (on my '17 EL, anyway) was a foot or so from the existing 4-pin in that wiring harness on the driver's side.

You will also want to add a fused charging line. I could not find that one in the existing harness.

 

[Expy00]

...and run a wire from the large orange wire in the engine bay above the driver’s side wheel back to get 12v accessory power.

I thought the Orange wire on Left wheel well might be the correct one for the 12v power but could not locate it in the fuse/relay box.

Do you have the fuse/relay location?

 

[HandyAZ]

This thread has been great. I have the OBDII adapter on it's way from Amazon and my Expedition (2017 EL XLT) is in transit from California. I purchased the factory trailer brake and a 7 PIN adapter as well as the black wire and circuit breaker to run from the battery to the 12V pin of 7 PIN. Here is my question... FORScan... Never used before, I have downloaded it and ready to use when the vehicle arrives. Do I need an extended license to change the code found on line 42 and 43 of the Google Sheet to enable the trailer brake and gain or just the standard license that comes with the download?brake? https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...TKARDo2Y7lfSOMFj6Gott8g7yg/edit#gid=756156726

 

[HandyAZ]

You can install and connect any standard 7-pin adapter. The View attachment 30358 View attachment 30359 brake wire (on my '17 EL, anyway) was a foot or so from the existing 4-pin in that wiring harness on the driver's side.

You will also want to add a fused charging line. I could not find that one in the existing harness.

Your photos are great! Thank you. I will see what happens when my vehicle arrives.

 

[HandyAZ]

You can install and connect any standard 7-pin adapter. The View attachment 30358 View attachment 30359 brake wire (on my '17 EL, anyway) was a foot or so from the existing 4-pin in that wiring harness on the driver's side.

You will also want to add a fused charging line. I could not find that one in the existing harness.

Is the first photo a picture of the fused line you ran back to the back for 12V power or the blue wire for the trailer brake? What is it connected to in the fuse box? I was going to do a similar thing but put it from the positive side of the battery with a fuse/40 amp circuit breaker but your location in the fuse box looks very clean.

 

[chuck s]

Unless Ford used a separate model fuse box for the HD Tow optioned trucks all the connections, fuses, and relays should be under the hood on top of the radiator. You may have to put the relays and fuses in place. No direct connections, everything runs thru a relay.

You'll also have to activate the brake controller in the car's computer using Forscan and your laptop.

-- Chuck

 

[Langer]

I thought the Orange wire on Left wheel well might be the correct one for the 12v power but could not locate it in the fuse/relay box.

Do you have the fuse/relay location?

Sorry for the delay, been on vacation. If you haven’t found it, someone posted this on another thread:

In my 2016 owners manual under fuse specification chart I believe it is the #48 40 amp fuse. If it doesn't have a fuse then you'll need to get one and just remember to get the low profile fuses. Remarkably easy to run a line back to the trailer hitch.

 

[HandyAZ]

Ok so here is my experience. Bought a 2017 Expedition EL XLT that had a Class IV hitch but no 7 PIN and no trans cooler or HD radiator. I needed to pull my Jeep up to the mountains so when I took delivery I had all of the parts I needed to do the install. Here's what I did.

Parts:

• OEM Trailer Brake controller: https://www.getoemparts.com/oem-parts/ford-module-fl1z2c006d Great company and even did overnight shipping at a reduced rate and it was cheaper than going to the dealer. I think I paid $110 total with overnight.
• CURT 7 way and 4 flat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001EP0HPI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Because I wanted to ensure I could keep a 4 flat and not have to get an adapter.
• Circuit Breaker 40 AMP: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NSDGNX6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Instead of trying to find the elusive orange wire or tap into the Greenish Purple wire, I just ran my own from the breaker box with 10 gauge wire back to the black wire on the 7 pin.
• ELM Forscan OBD2 Adapter : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0GVBWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - Use this to make changes to the Ford computer to turn on the brake controller.
• Spreadsheet with Codes: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...TKARDo2Y7lfSOMFj6Gott8g7yg/edit#gid=756156726

This shows the cubby removed with the factory harness hooked to the back.



You don't need to take off the dash, but you do need to get the panel below the steering wheel removed and the black bottom off the steering wheel unless you have small arms. Here is a shot of what it looks like from underneath. They are the yellow wires on the far right.



The four flat had capped blue wire that even had a tag on it that said "Elec Brake"



I had to grind down the weld to fit the new bracket in place for the 7 way.


I ran a black wire from the fuse box in the front of the Expedition to the rear by following the frame rail and using zip ties when needed. See the black wire connected here. You might want to add tape or heat shrink tubing but I didn't' have time and live in AZ.



I will post a few photos of the finished product and the line from the fuse box since I forgot to take them. Took me about 2 hours to do the work. The last step is to install FORScan, get the extended license (you can get a trial for 2 months for free) and then hook it up to your OBDII. You will need to go to the "Computer" icon and the IPC (As Built) in order to change the 2 numbers referenced in the spreadsheet. FORScan is pretty easy to use but it has a learning curve, you'll get used to it quick but be careful. You must use Windows, it does not work for Mac OS.

My dealer said it would cost me $50 to do the same thing through them, but I'm returning the OBDII Adapter to Amazon because this was my only use for it.



Hope this helps!

 

[chuck s]

Excellent write up. Should be an article, not merely a message #79 buried in a thread!

There are, of course, several other things Forscan can set in your truck and more are verified every few months.

-- Chuck