tallsville
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You can try the air vent pod gauges
Another blown expy coming soon!
- Thread starter toms89
- Start date
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Any links?
Check this out! This was created by MM Customworks and posted on the lightning forums. I love this set up. I only wish he would make mold and mass produce them. Buy and paint to match.
Kind of blend in. Within easy sight. Looks like a work of art.Attachments
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tallsville
Full Access Members
those look nice tom. here is a link for rousch ones
http://ventpod.com/
Mustang Gauge Pod (2005-2009), also fits F150 (2004-2008)
http://ventpod.com/
Mustang Gauge Pod (2005-2009), also fits F150 (2004-2008)
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Well.....I was hoping I could use the J&S to help me dial in the timing but it has turned out to be a bust.
The idea was to edge up on the detonation threshhold using the J&S to let me know when I reached it then back off a few degrees for safety.
The problem is apparently my combination can take a LOT of timing before it begins to detonate. The issue is peak cylinder pressure needs to happen in a small window for optimum performance. My combination and likely the tfs heads can go beyond that by a fair margin before detonation actually begins and as you advance the timing beyond the window power suffers.
I was advancing the timing and it "felt" like it was actually slowing down before the J&S registered anything. A little more and the J&S became active...
So I gave up on the idea to use it to tune. If it does go off I know I need to back off the timing significantly at that particular load and rpm.
In anycase it is a great safety tool in supercharged application.
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BakerEdition
EF Chaplain
I was looking at this and noticed they had a decal that SG should have on his outer mirrors...always thinkin about you bro! lmao
guywirewarning_zpsed71f1e8.jpg Photo by toms8950 | Photobucket
guywirewarning_zpsed71f1e8.jpg Photo by toms8950 | Photobucket
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Been modifying my tune this past few weeks for better "drivability".
I discovered an error in the sct "stock" setting for base n/v of vehicle.
Trying to keep it short this pid changes the rpm values indicated for a given mph located in the shift schedules. Tranny shifts are made based on mph input, but the tuner selects the mph based on desired rpms. After correctly setting the base n/v the mph shift points were as originally input but the rpms (correctly) indicated now were much lower. This in itself did not make any difference in the tune but now allowed me to properly set the correct mph shift point for the rpm I desire. The shift points were actually set way too low which had a big impact on low speed drivability.
I have now been tweaking the shift schedule to what I feel is ideal with much success. This has made a huge improvement in throttle response and feel. It is now very linear. Fuel milage has increased dramatically as well ! Have not checked it yet but got I got over 160 miles on half a tank which is an improvement for me. Looking forward to getting some new fuel milage figures.
What bugs me a bit is I originally complained several times about the motor bogging at low throttle and I thought that it was not downshifting when it should to my tuner. It would hold higher gears under load (say going up a hill) at 1200 rpm's when my cams have a powerband of 1400 - 5400 rpm. I would have to give it moderate throttle to get it to downshift. It would also upshift very early. He did adjust the shift schedules but since the base n/v was always off the overall mph shift points ended up lower than stock!!!!
I just learned to live with it and adjusted my driving style accordingly until recently.
Completely different animal now.. Very responsive and needs very minimal throttle to motivate it at any rpm/speed.
I discovered an error in the sct "stock" setting for base n/v of vehicle.
Trying to keep it short this pid changes the rpm values indicated for a given mph located in the shift schedules. Tranny shifts are made based on mph input, but the tuner selects the mph based on desired rpms. After correctly setting the base n/v the mph shift points were as originally input but the rpms (correctly) indicated now were much lower. This in itself did not make any difference in the tune but now allowed me to properly set the correct mph shift point for the rpm I desire. The shift points were actually set way too low which had a big impact on low speed drivability.I have now been tweaking the shift schedule to what I feel is ideal with much success. This has made a huge improvement in throttle response and feel. It is now very linear. Fuel milage has increased dramatically as well ! Have not checked it yet but got I got over 160 miles on half a tank which is an improvement for me. Looking forward to getting some new fuel milage figures.
What bugs me a bit is I originally complained several times about the motor bogging at low throttle and I thought that it was not downshifting when it should to my tuner. It would hold higher gears under load (say going up a hill) at 1200 rpm's when my cams have a powerband of 1400 - 5400 rpm. I would have to give it moderate throttle to get it to downshift. It would also upshift very early. He did adjust the shift schedules but since the base n/v was always off the overall mph shift points ended up lower than stock!!!!
I just learned to live with it and adjusted my driving style accordingly until recently.
Completely different animal now.. Very responsive and needs very minimal throttle to motivate it at any rpm/speed.
ArtGamer60
Full Access Members
Nice detective work Tom , and nice job on the build ! , driveability means alot .
Thank you.
W.O.T. is relatively easy to tune. Driveability is far more difficult. Stock it is done for you. Give the factory a lot of credit! The problem comes when you modify a vehicle radically from stock as far as heads, intake, cams, injectors, etc..... the factory settings no longer apply and driveability becomes more difficult to get dialed in.
I just averaged 15.25 mpg!! 
No BS... lol.
Got some hwy miles on her cruising at about 75mph (2100 rpm). Not really hyper mile-ing but not going w.o.t. either. If I really tried to conserve fuel I know it could do even better.
No BS... lol.Got some hwy miles on her cruising at about 75mph (2100 rpm). Not really hyper mile-ing but not going w.o.t. either. If I really tried to conserve fuel I know it could do even better.
1997SCEBFEX
Full Access Members
impressive!
i'd go back to the same gas station for another refill as i've noticed stations around town [here] that receive fuel more often.
forgot to ask, and don't remember [yeah the age thing] did you change the computer to go along w/ the Lightning powerplant & are you running Premium?
i'd go back to the same gas station for another refill as i've noticed stations around town [here] that receive fuel more often.
forgot to ask, and don't remember [yeah the age thing] did you change the computer to go along w/ the Lightning powerplant & are you running Premium?
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Jeff532003
Full Access Members
Damn Tom way to go! Your doing better than my stock 4.6 at the moment. Hoping once I finish this tune up I'll be able to get above 15.
All this tuning your doing makes me curious to see what you pull at the track this year. I give you a lot of credit. It sounds like your getting up to the fast and furious level of tuning with an expedition haha. I've only ever built carbureted, distributor engines. Much much easier to dial in as I'm sure you know.
All this tuning your doing makes me curious to see what you pull at the track this year. I give you a lot of credit. It sounds like your getting up to the fast and furious level of tuning with an expedition haha. I've only ever built carbureted, distributor engines. Much much easier to dial in as I'm sure you know.
Having weird issue..
Its not new but has been getting progressively worse. There are harsh vibrations that can be felt in the gas pedal and floor. Its more like a resonance and not rhythmic in nature. It also seem to be worse when its colder outside regardless of engine temps. This had me considering harmonic balancer or exhaust. The harmonic balancer should not be effected by outside temps once the engine temp is up because it will heat up with motor. The exhaust would make sense to me because it is effectively cooled by the outside air and the air temp could have a dramatic effect on it.
It has been progressing slowly over long period of time. It is also worse at low rpms.. specifically between 1,000-2,000 rpm which is also where "exhaust drone" is at its worse. My guess is the large dual 3" exhaust is causing the exhaust to resonate internally at low exhaust flow. But my concern is why has it been getting progressively worse. Everything feels solid and no sign of rattles with solid hits to it. I did do a pressure test at the O2 sensor location several months back and no pressure. Actually the needle fluctuated rapidly between slight pressure and vacuum but pulled more vacuum if anything.
The resonance is not felt at the motor via hand or heard with stethoscope. When you feel the exhaust any where past the collectors it is pronounced. Fairly certain its not in the motor due to the type of resonance and not being rhythmic in nature.
Trying to figure out where to go from here..
Want to get it taken care of but really need to know what exactly is the cause. Can get expensive just throwing money at it.
Considered having 1/4 wave resonators installed and / or installing larger convertors in hopes of increasing back pressure.
The motor runs fine otherwise.
Its not new but has been getting progressively worse. There are harsh vibrations that can be felt in the gas pedal and floor. Its more like a resonance and not rhythmic in nature. It also seem to be worse when its colder outside regardless of engine temps. This had me considering harmonic balancer or exhaust. The harmonic balancer should not be effected by outside temps once the engine temp is up because it will heat up with motor. The exhaust would make sense to me because it is effectively cooled by the outside air and the air temp could have a dramatic effect on it.
It has been progressing slowly over long period of time. It is also worse at low rpms.. specifically between 1,000-2,000 rpm which is also where "exhaust drone" is at its worse. My guess is the large dual 3" exhaust is causing the exhaust to resonate internally at low exhaust flow. But my concern is why has it been getting progressively worse. Everything feels solid and no sign of rattles with solid hits to it. I did do a pressure test at the O2 sensor location several months back and no pressure. Actually the needle fluctuated rapidly between slight pressure and vacuum but pulled more vacuum if anything.
The resonance is not felt at the motor via hand or heard with stethoscope. When you feel the exhaust any where past the collectors it is pronounced. Fairly certain its not in the motor due to the type of resonance and not being rhythmic in nature.
Trying to figure out where to go from here..
Want to get it taken care of but really need to know what exactly is the cause. Can get expensive just throwing money at it.
Considered having 1/4 wave resonators installed and / or installing larger convertors in hopes of increasing back pressure.
The motor runs fine otherwise.
Took my expy to the exhaust shop earlier this week.
The exhaust specialist said he is not convinced it is the exhaust but could not say for sure. He did say the muffler packing has "blown out" but he has never heard of that happening in just a few years. When you hit it hard it sounds more like a tin can type echo vs a dull thud. I got to compare to new muffler and there was a difference.
This to me would explain why the exhaust is vibrating/resonating more over time. I do have resonators post muffler so it would still help quiet it down before it exits the exhaust completely.
Still up in the air on what I am going to do....
What I do know is the exhaust is what is vibrating/resonating and that is whats felt in the vehicle. I cannot feel it at the motor. Easily felt in the exhaust tubing. Now whether the motor could be transmitting this vibration through to the exhaust due to some other misc issue other than normal operation I cannot say for sure....
I changed the oil today and cut open the oil filter to have a look. No foreign material.. just oil.
Gut feeling says its the exhaust!!
The exhaust specialist said he is not convinced it is the exhaust but could not say for sure. He did say the muffler packing has "blown out" but he has never heard of that happening in just a few years. When you hit it hard it sounds more like a tin can type echo vs a dull thud. I got to compare to new muffler and there was a difference.
This to me would explain why the exhaust is vibrating/resonating more over time. I do have resonators post muffler so it would still help quiet it down before it exits the exhaust completely.
Still up in the air on what I am going to do....
What I do know is the exhaust is what is vibrating/resonating and that is whats felt in the vehicle. I cannot feel it at the motor. Easily felt in the exhaust tubing. Now whether the motor could be transmitting this vibration through to the exhaust due to some other misc issue other than normal operation I cannot say for sure....
I changed the oil today and cut open the oil filter to have a look. No foreign material.. just oil.
Gut feeling says its the exhaust!!
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