Blend Door Issue??

[96mustangV6]

Well lately my Navi has been givine problems with the A/c & Heat.

When I get in and start driving I'll hit the A/C. Sometimes it will blow ice cold and sometimes heat. I thought it was the a/c compressor or low on freon but both check out great. When its blowing heat (while on max a/c and temp on 60) if I switch back and forth between vent and max a/c. After a few times it will Start blowing cold.

The other day if was cold goin to work so o turned heat on and it was blow in a/c ( while it was on vent and temp on 90). I did same I would turn it off and back on 4-5 times then it would start blow in heat. I could have sworn that one time it made a clunk under dash once i t did this. Like a door was closing. The rear air works perfect though.

Starting to irratate me. If its blend door where is a how to on how to fix it and how much. I was thinking maybe its the climate control box but not real sure.

 

[QbanCgar]

Well lately my Navi has been givine problems with the A/c & Heat.

When I get in and start driving I'll hit the A/C. Sometimes it will blow ice cold and sometimes heat. I thought it was the a/c compressor or low on freon but both check out great. When its blowing heat (while on max a/c and temp on 60) if I switch back and forth between vent and max a/c. After a few times it will Start blowing cold.

The other day if was cold goin to work so o turned heat on and it was blow in a/c ( while it was on vent and temp on 90). I did same I would turn it off and back on 4-5 times then it would start blow in heat. I could have sworn that one time it made a clunk under dash once i t did this. Like a door was closing. The rear air works perfect though.

Starting to irratate me. If its blend door where is a how to on how to fix it and how much. I was thinking maybe its the climate control box but not real sure.

i had a similar problem, it was around November/December of last year & my heat wouldn't blow in the front, just in the back. come to find out it was the Blend Door that needed to be replaced. i read about it & searched on youtube for a video (which they have), however i ended up taking it back to the dealership that i bought it from & they fixed it. couldn't really tell you a price as they fixed it for no charge since i had just bought the truck from them 3 weeks prior to that.

 

[Copper93]

Sounds like the blend door. The easiest way is to get the one that goes through the glove box. It still takes awhile but not as long as pulling the whole dash. If you go pulling the dash way, it will probably cost around 800.00 to get it done at a shop from what i hear. I replaced the blend door in my 97 by way of the glove box. The part was about 40.00 and a day's work.

 

[jbanks]

I wanted to post here since I have a Navigator too.

Earlier this summer mine stopped blowing cold but the AC was fully charged and functioning. For a while it was blowing COOL out the drivers side and warmer out the passenger side. Then it was nothing but heat, and it's hot in Texas. I was actually on a 1200 mile trip, 600 miles from home.

I looked at the heater treater videos and saw where to cut the glovebox and the plenum box behind. So...I cut 3 sides where I could just pull it out and reach the blend door. Sure enough it was just flopping around in there. I used a Harbor Freight Multifunction Oscillating Tool to make my cuts. It sure beats the Dremel, because the cut lines are very THIN.

I ordered the Dorman 902-220 blend door repair kit back then. I finally got around to installing it today. Despite, having watched all the videos and looking at all the pictures I could online. When it came to the console and the additional ductwork not shown on Heater Treaters instuctions or the Dorman instructions that appear to be just like the heater treater ones, I ended up having to cut some of the ductwork at the bottom even more.

This picture on the heater treater website proved invaluable showing where to chop the duct below the actuator in half....basically you would not be able to get his part out it really has to be cut Trust me...I tried to get it out.

I'm very happy about this repair. It only to me a couple hours. It would have taken less if I had just gone in cutting! (surgically though) The repair part was cheap and it saved dropping the dash.

 

[hwy73]

This is what I did. Made a slit in the carpet from front to rear about 6 inches long. A couple inches back on that rear floor heat duct that runs under the console, I made a cut across the top, left to right and down the sides, leaving the bottom intact. I then folded the piece under itself to clear the front heat diverter, which has to come out as it is directly under the blend door actuator motor on the bottom of the heater box. When done, I folded it back and ran a strip of duct tape across the top to seal it. That front heat diverter is tough to wedge out of there, the back screw is a beast.

 

[gkelly]

Easy fix and cost 0 dollars....cut a hole in the box behind the glove box for summer jam a piece of wood closing the door so you always have ac and take it out and jam the door the other way for heat in the winter but disconnect the actuator so it doesn't click all the time

 

[96mustangV6]

So I gotta take center console out too?? I haven't done it yet as its stuck on heat and the highs only been 55-60 here so no need for a/c lol

 

[hwy73]

Console has to come out. Not too bad to do. The Heater-Treater picture/videos are on an F-150 with no console. What happens is the pivot on the bottom of the blend door cracks so it then just "free-wheels" on the actuator. So as the truck accelerates and decelerates, the blend door is just flopping back and forth.

 

[jbanks]

This is what I did. Made a slit in the carpet from front to rear about 6 inches long. A couple inches back on that rear floor heat duct that runs under the console, I made a cut across the top, left to right and down the sides, leaving the bottom intact. I then folded the piece under itself to clear the front heat diverter, which has to come out as it is directly under the blend door actuator motor on the bottom of the heater box. When done, I folded it back and ran a strip of duct tape across the top to seal it. That front heat diverter is tough to wedge out of there, the back screw is a beast.

Yes. I slit the carpet too. About 6 inches. I made my cuts about 1 1/2 inch in from where the edge of the console rests.

 

[jbanks]

Easy fix and cost 0 dollars....cut a hole in the box behind the glove box for summer jam a piece of wood closing the door so you always have ac and take it out and jam the door the other way for heat in the winter but disconnect the actuator so it doesn't click all the time

Nice. This is basically what I did all summer. With my flap door cut in the box I could just drop the glovebox door down, pull out the flap and move the door. The only problem I had by not using a wedge, you had to always use the Air on MAX AC or the door would move back. Wasn't a problem in Texas summer until it cooled off and I was cycling it manually.

 

[jbanks]

So I gotta take center console out too?? I haven't done it yet as its stuck on heat and the highs only been 55-60 here so no need for a/c lol

I just moved the console back, didn't take it out. There are Two TORX Screws that hold in the cup holders and front storage area. Once that is out, there are TWO 8mm screws under there (down in deep holes) that hold down the console. There are two more 8mm screws under round covers on the side near the back. I had to move the seats all the way forward to get to them. Then you just lift on the front of the console and pull back.(Pull Hard!) Oh yah...there is a 10mm bolt holding the wiring plug in. You have to disconnect the wiring too.

 

[jbanks]

Here's the Other Method. Remove the dash...yikes

Ford Expedition blend door fix - YouTube

 

[gkelly]

I just moved mine to heat ..ill take 5 min to save 200 bucks any day