bought a 99 5.4 was told needs new motor but doesn't even try to crank over

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Go to a few junkyards near a large city with a notebook and write down what you see (VINs, motor size and look at rear end size, there are 3). Expy 1st gens are everywhere and if you can find one totaled from the 'top' (i.e. no frame damage), just get you a new start and transfer your good interior stuff over from there. Rusted vehicles are money pits - (and dangerous) and these Expys are not all that expensive because they are plentiful. Junkyards are holding them a little longer since they are popular, long lived vehicles - the junkyards still have a brisk business for parts, for now.

Your original post sounds like someone gave up on the motor because the PATS shut down. Not, the PATS shut down after the motor locked up (if locked up). You may be pleasantly surprised if you can get some juice through the ignition system. Separately, about the PATS, I'd ask a Ford Dealer garage the price to reprogram your current key and vehicle to match. (You have clear title? This isn't a victim of car theft, perhaps?) Also, before you do that, make sure your key even has a chip (pry off corner of the black plastic key housing and check.) About 6 years ago, my physical key lobes wore down /wore out, and Ford Dealer wanted about $300 for new ignition cylinder and 2 new keys programmed to my vehicle. Instead, I went the aftermarket (Autozone this time), bought an ignition cylinder set w 2 keys with unprogrammed chips, and transferred the original chips from my old keys to the new ones and got through the whole process for under $40. But I didn't need Ford to reprogram anything. Also, if you do rebuild another Expy with parts from yours, the sensor, I heard, is in the steering column, so you need to think about that when transferring keys or blowing a lot of $$ on the programming of keys. You might just end up with a good 'new' set in your junkyard treasure. Good luck.
 
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ThatOneMike

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well, got service manuals in the mail, need too adress grounding issues which are in my mind undoubtedly caused bu rusty straps on rusty frame...gonna be interesting, wish I knew more about the service history and what it had been sitting in or on
 
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ThatOneMike

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Go to a few junkyards near a large city with a notebook and write down what you see (VINs, motor size and look at rear end size, there are 3). Expy 1st gens are everywhere and if you can find one totaled from the 'top' (i.e. no frame damage), just get you a new start and transfer your good interior stuff over from there. Rusted vehicles are money pits - (and dangerous) and these Expys are not all that expensive because they are plentiful. Junkyards are holding them a little longer since they are popular, long lived vehicles - the junkyards still have a brisk business for parts, for now.

Your original post sounds like someone gave up on the motor because the PATS shut down. Not, the PATS shut down after the motor locked up (if locked up). You may be pleasantly surprised if you can get some juice through the ignition system. Separately, about the PATS, I'd ask a Ford Dealer garage the price to reprogram your current key and vehicle to match. (You have clear title? This isn't a victim of car theft, perhaps?) Also, before you do that, make sure your key even has a chip (pry off corner of the black plastic key housing and check.) About 6 years ago, my physical key lobes wore down /wore out, and Ford Dealer wanted about $300 for new ignition cylinder and 2 new keys programmed to my vehicle. Instead, I went the aftermarket (Autozone this time), bought an ignition cylinder set w 2 keys with unprogrammed chips, and transferred the original chips from my old keys to the new ones and got through the whole process for under $40. But I didn't need Ford to reprogram anything. Also, if you do rebuild another Expy with parts from yours, the sensor, I heard, is in the steering column, so you need to think about that when transferring keys or blowing a lot of $$ on the programming of keys. You might just end up with a good 'new' set in your junkyard treasure. Good luck.
Yeah, I'm still tinkering with it. the frame is basically just surface rust I haven't come across anything I wouldn't trust with the way I drive. the chassis components however ... pretty sure I just wanna replace em but I dunno so far...every bolt has turned easy, the lugs came off like butter. I think this was a beloved family heirloom that sat somewhere less than ideal for 7 years. From the research I did it was owned by onne couple, bought in colorado then titled here in '03. the only service record i have is from a local trans shop at 119k in '11 and it has 128 k on the odometer, it was transfered to a local dealer ship bout 30 miles from me.They said it had a bad motor and wanted 1k their ad said rust free...lol when I finally post pics we can laugh together, I offered em much much less then even the 800 they dropped it to. anyway I was able to jack it up by the front cross member , no crushed metal ...I'm hoping that friends of mine may be able to talk someone into letting me use their rotisserie. I give that about a 25% chance for success lol. but for now If I cant get the motor running by tackling the no start and an oil change I'm either gonna part it out or try to find another parts vehicle or like I've said parting it out. If I get it started without significant investment ,Ill look into chassis and brakes.I'm kind of trying to gather supplies after almost a decade of mechanical hiatus . I'm more used to early 90's gm's with 350's :)) I thought to myself...I can figure this ford thing out...
 

Bigedlking4help

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I bought a 98 exp it had sit for 4 yrs ,,,,,for the love of me I couldn't get it to turn over until
I got a remote locked doors unlocked doors then it turned right over
Also try. Sitting inside lock doors then unlock doors see if that works for you
Good luck
 
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ThatOneMike

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I bought a 98 exp it had sit for 4 yrs ,,,,,for the love of me I couldn't get it to turn over until
I got a remote locked doors unlocked doors then it turned right over
Also try. Sitting inside lock doors then unlock doors see if that works for you
Good luck
when I did this the plastic piece that physically unlocks the doors (not the L/UL button) would chatter up and down several times and then either rest too far into the door panel for me to get a finger grip on...I remember an f-150 my friend worked on, did that too. I'm pretty sure there's a lot of bad grounds, I'm just a lethargic tiger and tend to take my time doing things, and the weather has been atrocious 95 degree days with 110 degree dew points.
 
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ThatOneMike

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well as I wait for my service manuals can anyone tell me what to easily disconnect/remove from around the coils so I can get my large hands at easy access for the coils and plugs? also there's a design flaw and one of my lines rubs against the corner of an electrical mount and has cut a hole in it... anyone know which line this is and can I safely clip that corner to prevent it from happening to the replacement hose?
 
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ThatOneMike

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ok well, plugs out, engine is seized. got a ton of pb plaster in the cylinders will update when engine turns or its been a week of trying.
 

1955moose

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Marvel mystery oil in a squirt can works well too. Sounds like your vehicle may have been exposed to water.

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ThatOneMike

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it's quite possible, but then again it is almost 20 years old and I live in a state that uses alot of salt in the winter and the trucks been here since like '03.
I really don't know what to do with it at this point .have it up on craigslist seeing if anyones interested before I pull the motor out and see if the cylinders are any good. I have the skill to do a rebuild just need the machine work done as I have no machines to do that kind of work lol. I figure if the engine is toasted I'll sell it for less than a core charge same with the trans and case then sell the interior and then have it towed to a yard...it's too bad I need a big reliable vehicle for my growing family and apart from the weird 2v shit this things pretty easy to work on. also if I can find a good rebuild kit or donor motor cheap I of course wouldn't mind tossing it in but I'm not a man of wealth so I'm gonna do whats cheapest or nets me the most return.
 
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ThatOneMike

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I mean I'm no metallurgist but the frame is still solid, I mean I've trusted my life to much, much worse, had a b2000 with a hole in the frame bigger than my fist and that thing lasted 6 months before the bed and frame started to basically walk itself out of alignment and become dangerous...mind you I was 17 then and didn't have to worry about my babies, but for this state id say the expy has a nominal amount of rust for the age.
 

1955moose

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I sent you a PM.


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ThatOneMike

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ok so The engine will not crank over by hand (bummer) the rust on the frame and components is surface rust (mostly havent found any weak points in the frame while I have been descaling it. I tried some rustoleum on the front cross member to see how itd adhere to it..after 2 days anywhere I properly removed rust and wiped down w degreasser seems to be holding on pretty tight to the spray on rust converter. Trying to cheaply rebuild an cherry picker but harbor freight doesnt have replacement parts in store so thats an adventure.
anyway posted a wtb but might as well post here too.
looking for 4 rust free doors.
a 5.4 2v replacement.
running boards.
rear hatch rust free.

I'll post some pictures of before and after the descaling and priming
 
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ThatOneMike

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ok so The engine will not crank over by hand (bummer) the rust on the frame and components is surface rust (mostly havent found any weak points in the frame while I have been descaling it. I tried some rustoleum on the front cross member to see how itd adhere to it..after 2 days anywhere I properly removed rust and wiped down w degreasser seems to be holding on pretty tight to the spray on rust converter. Trying to cheaply rebuild an cherry picker but harbor freight doesnt have replacement parts in store so thats an adventure.
anyway posted a wtb but might as well post here too.
looking for 4 rust free doors.
a 5.4 2v replacement.
running boards.
rear hatch rust free.

I'll post some pictures of before and after the descaling and priming


oh and my friend and I have determined that some previous owner likely decided to take it mudding and blew something up trying to get it unstuck. I'm hoping to see if I can get the engine out this weekend and rotate the top end.
 
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ThatOneMike

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am I correct in assuming I need to take the cowl off to get the fenders removed? I'm thinking cowl and hood then hidden fender bolts....am I right?
 
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ThatOneMike

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also is there any good fixes for the door well rust? the doors ironically look ok but the wells are starting to bubble and Ive heard that rust removal priming and painting wont last too long on these.
 
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