Cost to R&R oils

[Machete]

What is your guess the price is to have following job done.

Front diff oil
Rear diff oil
Transfer case oil
Tranny flush (not drain n fill)
Coolant flush.

 

[Trainmaster]

At a New York dealer, $975. But they can't flush the tranny, only drain and fill.

 

[Machete]

I’ve gotten prices from 3 dealers all in the $850-$900 range. One even offered a loaner.
How low will they go?

 

[Clemson82]

I have a 2014 but I would guess the prices are the same?
Had my transmission drain and fill done for $210 and Rear diff done for $116. Coolant flush was $109. All done at Goodyear - No issues. I expected to have to tell them not to flush the trans (based on what I learned on this forum), but before I could, the guy at Goodyear said you don't flush these, you just drain and fill them.
*Mine is two wheel drive.

 

[Trainmaster]

Machete, there must be a good independent shop that you trust who can do this. The materials are less than $250 and there's two hour's labor at the most.

 

[Machete]

I do have trust issues. I have a good indy but they’re good for certain things. I use the dealer when I need deep pockets to go after if they screw up.

I don’t trust the indy to flush my tranny. I’ve had it flushed several times at the dealerships and never a problem.

Now with all the damn changes to the fluids from Motorcraft I’m sure my indy will F something up.

 

[Bilsto]

I've been advised by numerous mechanics not to flush transmissions. I did it twice on Chrysler products, and both transmissions failed within 2 weeks. I'd just drain and fill.

 

[Expd830]

I had front diff changed rear and transfer case all drained and filled $210. The coolant I had drained for around $90 but I never flush the transmission knowing it will probably mess up.

 

[Trainmaster]

Don't bother flushing the tranny, just drop the pan, change oil and filter.

 

[Machete]

I’ve flushed my tranny many times. If your tranny is weak then you can damage it but mine benefits from getting all the old fluid out. Besides, every dealer I work with has no concern flushing trannies which is why they have the specific equipment.

 

[Yupster Dog]

If you are still unclear this should help

 

[Machete]

And that’s why I always flush vs drain. My fluid is always red not brown.

 

[Gumbyalso]

I have the same 2000 EB 4x4 5.4L as you. Had it since it was new. I have 331K on it now. Every 30,000 I have drained the transmission (about 6.5 qts) and changed the filter. The transmission fluid is always red and looks nearly new. I have never had a problem with the transmission. I have also changed the oil in the front and rear differentials at 150K and 300K. The rear is supposed to be lubed for life and when I changed it the first time at 150K I was wondering why I did it because it still looked good. I've flushed and changed coolant as recommended in the owners manual. Ford and Zerex still have the original green coolant. It's actually cheaper to just get it from Ford. And don't forget changing the transfer case oil (every 150K) and the fuel filter (every 30K). I do all of these things myself in my driveway. I'm too cheap to pay $900 to have somebody else do it, but it's good you're getting it done. I also change the plugs every 100K and replaced the COPs when they were going bad at about 300K. The only non-wear item failures I've had are the intake manifold (plastic, cracked around 200K) and the ABS electronics which I had repaired for $120 many years ago. I've changed a lot of other stuff, but it was all what I would consider to be wear items. I think these first generations will last to 400K if taken care of. That's my goal, anyway.

 

[VoxVeritatis]

I have the same 2000 EB 4x4 5.4L as you. Had it since it was new. I have 331K on it now...The only non-wear item failures I've had are the intake manifold (plastic, cracked around 200K) and the ABS electronics which I had repaired for $120 many years ago. I've changed a lot of other stuff, but it was all what I would consider to be wear items. I think these first generations will last to 400K if taken care of. That's my goal, anyway.

Similar here...2002 EB 5.4L, 1-owner from new in 2001, now has 176K. I replaced my own plastic intake manifold once, around 150K, and dropped the tank to replace the fuel pump in my own garage using a cheap floor jack shortly thereafter. Those are the only two significant repair jobs I've had to undertake, and both were easily DIY in my own 2-car garage, where I've kept 'er since I bought 'er.

[Edited to add that my drained and replaced fluid is still red as well.]