I ran 1 qt Lucas synthetic lube and 5 qt castrol edge 5 30 fully synthetic. Knock still there. Dpfe, egr, all good. Sounds like knock is up top passenger side. Any ideas? Stuck lifter? Cam phaser? Truck starts up on first try. Just cleaned maf sensor and iat sensor. Increased performance. Engine loss power between 20-30 mph and 60 - 70 mph. All is good except knock. HELP! Open to all suggestions. Lastly, no obd 2 codes. Emissions is a green light.
Engine knock 2000 5.4 Eddie Bauer
- Thread starter Naputik
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
FordandPolaris
Full Access Members
Does it quit knocking once it warms up or continue to do it no matter what?
Well you can rule out cam phasers as the 2v motors has none.
There are many possibilities. Can you be more descriptive on when it occurs.
Load, rpm, throttle position, etc...
Constant or intermittent depending on conditions?
There are many possibilities. Can you be more descriptive on when it occurs.
Load, rpm, throttle position, etc...
Constant or intermittent depending on conditions?
I would check spark plugs make sure none are loose. It could launch one if she is loosening up.
Rod knock typically gets worse with load. Could be exhaust hitting somewhere due to bad motor mounts, etc... Cam follower tensioners "lifters" knock is usually less severe in sound. It could be intermittent. Also if timing chain guides or tensioners are failing the timing chain could be hitting the timing cover. Injectors can be noisy as well.
Rod knock typically gets worse with load. Could be exhaust hitting somewhere due to bad motor mounts, etc... Cam follower tensioners "lifters" knock is usually less severe in sound. It could be intermittent. Also if timing chain guides or tensioners are failing the timing chain could be hitting the timing cover. Injectors can be noisy as well.
I'm uploading video now. I haven't check the plugs at all since I don't have any misfire codes or starting problems. I bought the truck
2 months ago. I'm just trying to eliminate the search and replace based on suspicion. I have 6 kids and really can't afford too much. My first thought was something with the exhaust also. I checked that already. Unless maybe my cat (s) are plugged and causing too much back pressure? I'm not a professional mechanic. I've only worked on my vehicles to save money. Well I hope the video will be helpful. It's 30% uploaded to you tube. I'll paste link here in a bit. Thanks for your time.
2 months ago. I'm just trying to eliminate the search and replace based on suspicion. I have 6 kids and really can't afford too much. My first thought was something with the exhaust also. I checked that already. Unless maybe my cat (s) are plugged and causing too much back pressure? I'm not a professional mechanic. I've only worked on my vehicles to save money. Well I hope the video will be helpful. It's 30% uploaded to you tube. I'll paste link here in a bit. Thanks for your time.
superexpy
Full Access Members
Agreed with Toms89! Alot of the time I have seen this issue its a loose plug.
superexpy
Full Access Members
Thats a weird sound. Mabey when you rev it up like that till it knocks touch each coil pack and see if it vibrates to the knocking. I am kind of wondering if its you chain tencheners tho
Wow.. That sounds harsh.
My first guess would rods possibly followed by valvetrain just due to the intensity. But its impossible to locate the sound via the video. A mechanic stethoscope would help.
I would check spark plugs to eliminate them as the source. A loose plug would not necessarily misfire but could move around in the hole.
Removing the valve cover may show if there is valve train issue.
I would recommend doing something soon before something fails catastrophically. Get an estimate / diagnosis at a few shops if possible?!
My first guess would rods possibly followed by valvetrain just due to the intensity. But its impossible to locate the sound via the video. A mechanic stethoscope would help.
I would check spark plugs to eliminate them as the source. A loose plug would not necessarily misfire but could move around in the hole.
Removing the valve cover may show if there is valve train issue.
I would recommend doing something soon before something fails catastrophically. Get an estimate / diagnosis at a few shops if possible?!
That's where a mechanics stethoscope would really come in handy!! Key areas to listen..
Timing chain cover, valve covers, engine block, cops, injectors...
With it being that loud it should be obvious.
Last edited:
superexpy
Full Access Members
Sounded kind of like rods to me too except it seemed to be coming from the top. one thing I also noticed is when he let off or the RPM's are coming down there is no noise. If it were valve train flopping around i would think it would do it on acceleration and de-acceleration at same RPM's. What were you doing when this started?
I was curious about this as well. What event may have preceded this noise if any.
stamp11127
Full Access Members
Went looking on you tube for a video on what rod knock sounds like for all the newbies. Ran across a decent one that explains in laymen terms and that the basic shade tree mechanic can do.
It may be just me, but when you first start the engine and it is at idle, you can hear a slight knock that seems to be slower than engine rpm. Others please chime in on your opinion. If it is then that would point to the valve train.
This also sounds like some of the idlers or water pumps that are getting ready to part company on big trucks I used to worked on.
How to test for Rod Knock using a screwdriver - YouTube
It may be just me, but when you first start the engine and it is at idle, you can hear a slight knock that seems to be slower than engine rpm. Others please chime in on your opinion. If it is then that would point to the valve train.
This also sounds like some of the idlers or water pumps that are getting ready to part company on big trucks I used to worked on.
How to test for Rod Knock using a screwdriver - YouTube
Last edited:
^^ good video
@ O.P.
If you want to try and pinpoint it yourself.... fairly cheap and can be purchased from most auto parts stores.
Lisle 52500 Mechanic's Stethoscope : Amazon.com : Automotive
You never realize just how noisy all the working parts are till you listen with one of these.
Just don't touch any rotating parts or the accessory belt..
@ O.P.
If you want to try and pinpoint it yourself.... fairly cheap and can be purchased from most auto parts stores.
Lisle 52500 Mechanic's Stethoscope : Amazon.com : Automotive
You never realize just how noisy all the working parts are till you listen with one of these.
Just don't touch any rotating parts or the accessory belt..
Last edited:
mocrawlin
Member
sounds like timing chain on the cover to me!
#1 spark plug heavy white deposits
I pulled plugs 1-3 all have white deposits. #1 was heavily coated while 2 + 3 where considerably less. I didn't notice any difference in performance after cleaning and maintaining same gap. .056 -- my sticker on truck said gap between .052 - .056 -- the full synthetic seemed to have lessen the knocking. Still hear it between shifts 2nd + 3rd. Upshift and downshift. Any thoughts? Still no obd 2 codes either.
I pulled plugs 1-3 all have white deposits. #1 was heavily coated while 2 + 3 where considerably less. I didn't notice any difference in performance after cleaning and maintaining same gap. .056 -- my sticker on truck said gap between .052 - .056 -- the full synthetic seemed to have lessen the knocking. Still hear it between shifts 2nd + 3rd. Upshift and downshift. Any thoughts? Still no obd 2 codes either.
