Exhaust manifold leak

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

knute

New Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2010
Posts
1
Reaction score
0
Location
wisconsin
I have an exhaust manifold leak, any advice on fixing this that will make it easier than I've been hearing ? Should I replace with an aftermarket manifold ?
 

mic_1011

Full Access Members
Joined
Jan 16, 2010
Posts
96
Reaction score
2
Location
yonkers n.y.
i've been having the same problem with my 98. took it to a mechanic and it was ok for a few months. now it's back again
 

02Expedition

Active Member
Joined
Sep 25, 2009
Posts
42
Reaction score
0
Location
central mass
my 02 has the leak too..I have been thinking maybe now is the time to put on the shorties...I am thinking Gibson Headers....
 

jeff1998

Full Access Members
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Posts
110
Reaction score
1
Location
Highland, IL USA
I have the same trouble with my 98 5.4L. The manifold warps when cold breaking off the stud and nut holding it to the block. When it warms up it almost goes away. Any good fix for this??
 

tonydiv

technical advisor
Joined
Sep 12, 2009
Posts
1,746
Reaction score
138
Location
Middle River, MD
I've been thinking about headers too. But those super wimpy studs have me concerned. They're tiny and I'm worried that they will break off if I try to remove the nuts. Anyone know how big of a job it is to replace the studs?
 

Never_Evil

Member
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Posts
14
Reaction score
0
Location
Green Bay
I am planning on doing this job in the near future. Not only did some studs break off the engine, but the studs that hold the manifold to the y-pipe deteriorated. With the truck up in the air and supported. There is enough room to remove the wheel and have access through the wheel well. You can rent stud removers from Autozone, but you would definitely need new studs. If any of them break off, you will need to get a drill and a stud extractor( start small and work your way up). Worst case scenario is that the stud is not coming out for any reason, you will have to over drill it and insert a helicoil or retap it. Not a fun project due to limit space.
 

aircargoo

Full Access Members
Joined
Jun 30, 2008
Posts
382
Reaction score
17
Location
new jersey
i would replace both sides with better model then stock....period.

job like that is $200 a side maybe.....and yes...better shop for the ones with bigger bolts and threads...

...u gotta get the replacements as well.....not cheap job w/warrenty.

i c these motors worked on alot(serviced)...they CAN go over 350,000 miles with SERVICE THOU......4.6 ive seen with 290,000 the most.....

these trucks are used in construction co. there freaking abused fairly well day in day out...dogged....lol
 

KevyKev

Member
Joined
May 15, 2010
Posts
24
Reaction score
0
Location
Florida
air cargo,

You speak the truth my man......I'm pushing 370, all I need right now is a intake gasket. I had the same problem, and the mechanic redrilled new holes and stronger bolts........
 

gijohn45

Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2009
Posts
17
Reaction score
0
Location
layton, utah
I bought new studs and bolts for $6.75 each from the stealership... it takes 8 per side... a local muffler shop charges $200 to fix the problem... its usually the back two that break...
 

nvycrmn

Full Access Members
Joined
Feb 15, 2010
Posts
1,622
Reaction score
10
Location
Springville, IA
gijohn, i dont think ive seen pics of ur rig. got any posted in here somewhere? im running the same setup minus the gears.
 

97EB5.4

Active Member
Joined
Jun 19, 2010
Posts
41
Reaction score
0
Location
NC
I just got done doing this to my 97 5.4L. Got the summit version shorties which is the pacesetter essentially. Took the fender liner out and got the old manifolds out. I did not have enough room to remove the studs by drilling them out. The stud removers sold through advance and autozone are the same. made by irwin i believe. its a good set. however the studs on mine were rusted and the diameter of the stud had shrunk and the remover set did not go small enough to remove them. So instead of breaking off studs in the heads to make me more pissed off i jerryrigged it. Didnt want to do it this way but I was very short in time and didnt have the funds to remove heads and all that. SO i got the muffler putty used to patch holes and put it on the header side and on the head side making sure to get it around the studs which were only the bottom of the rear cylinder and the top of the second cylinder. So I have not had any leaks. THe stock h pipe or y pipe whatever it is bolted up to the header flange just fine with no leaks. I also got a good deal on the dynomax catback from summit too. Just did not have the time to install. So there it is in a nutshell. Took me a weekend. Passenger side is easier than drivers side due to driver side having the brake line manifold setup right in front of the first couple of cylinders. I didnt take pictures though. Kinda wish i had. But as long as you take out the liners which is a 5.5 mm i believe and there are about 6 of those bolts one of which is on the bottom rear corner of the fenderwell up underneath. So make sure to look for that or you will be fussing with yourself. Any questions? Have fun.
 
Top